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Try reading through this Comparing Clutch/Brake Pedals and Brackets - FORDification.com
My front suspension, steering and brakes were in this truck when I got it. The PO was a body man at the local Ford dealer and said it all came from a 1979 truck. I had to rebuild everything especially those POS aluminum bushings in the pivot. But I have the cantilever type booster. You need to figure out what year that cab is, your profile says it is a 1965? And call Flashback F100 to see if he has the parts to make your booster work.
Actually after looking at the Fordification article again your easiest fix might be at very end of the article. 3) Drop your '67 brake pedal out and weld a 1" extension tab onto the rear (towards the driver) edge of the pedal, drill a hole for the booster rod, and then go ahead use the '68-'77 booster. Keep in mind your 65?? cab is nearly identical to a 67.
Last edited by Crop Duster; Sep 27, 2017 at 04:05 AM.
Reason: more words
The booster pictured in the link you provided is the single diaphragm version. What's in your truck is the F250/F350 dual diaphragm booster. In your photo, it looks like the eyelet (between the brake pedal and the booster input rod) is screwed all the way in (bottomed out) so, with the current setup, the pedal isn't going to get any closer to the floor when the pedal isn't being applied.
You may be able to slightly reduce the pedal height if you get the bolt from a Slick that attaches the manual brake MC/booster input rod to the brake pedal. The bake pedal bolt in the Slicks is eccentric. By rotating this bolt, it will move the brake pedal up/down to some degree.
I suspect the fulcrum pivot point of where your brake pedal is mounted to your pedal hanger is closer to the firewall, compared to the same pedal pivot point of a '68-'72 Ford truck. This would make the input rod to the booster push the brake pedal back and the foot pad would sit high off the floor.
'67 pedal supports had a pivot point closer to the firewall than the pivot point on '68-'72 model trucks --as pictured below.
Possibly, a simple solution in your case would be to fabricate (4) spacers to insert between the booster mounting brackets (between the brackets and where it bolts up to the firewall), to move the booster forward to compensate for the amount of distance the input rod is too long. If you needed longer bolts for the spacers, 3/8"-16 bolts are cheap.
I have thought about the spacers since just to would essentially move the pedal towards the firewall in the same way. Just worried about the added strain to the firewall - but maybe im making up an issue that doesnt exist.
I've used spacers from this site in the past and they're great: AluminumSpacers.com
I'll take a look at the brake lines attached to the master to make sure they can be moved forward. Might be a $10 solution to the problem.
If the problem can be easily fixed in this manner, I think you would be much better off. It's hard to beat the quality and performance from an OEM Bendix booster. Aftermarket boosters just don't usually perform as well as OEM.
If you're in the middle of BFE when something goes wrong with an aftermarket booster, you aren't going to be able to just run down to the parts store to get its replacement and it's going to be several days before a replacement can be shipped to you.
The parts stores may very well not have a stock replacement Bumpside booster on the shelf either but, it would likely arrive at the store by the very next morning. That's much better than waiting for it to arrive days later.
I have a dual diaphragm Bendix booster from a '75 F350 that I installed in my '69 F100. Works extremely well with the '77 F100 front discs and the '95 Explorer MC I installed.
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