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I have more of it left over and I'll go down to the shop later and let ya know exactly what it was.
Funny you say that about the inside of the door. When I was posting the pic I thought the same thing. I guess I most likely didn't do it because I wanted to make sure I had enough for the all the other areas. But now that I know that I do I'll go back and put some in there.
Also you'll want to have some type of roller to make sure it forms to all of the corners and bends. I just went to the arts and crafts store and found a cheap $.99 one.
Butyl rubber mat with aluminum foil backing is good for reducing vibrations within the metal. Think about a cymbal, when struck it vibrates and generates sound waves. A cymbal will also resonate when contacted by sound waves coming from an outside source. That said, here are some of the fallacies/myths about Dynamat, et al: 100% coverage is recommended...do you have to cover a cymbal 100% to stop the vibration? No. This mat reduces heat transfer...really, when you wrap a ear of corn in aluminum foil and place it on the grille does the foil keep the corn from cooking? No.
Here's the point, Dynamat and other butyl rubber sheets do a good job at keeping the sheetmetal on our trucks from ringing. This alone is a major step in the right direction but it is not a do-all end-all solution. Noise will still pass through this mat and noise will reflect off the mat...so if you want to keep noise out off the cab from outside sources or if you want to keep your truck cab from sounding like an echo chamber then more will have to be done in addition to the butyl mat. Oh yeah...don't forget, the aluminum foil on this mat is there to keep the mushy butyl rubber in place, nothing more.
I was visiting the guy that does my sandblasting yesterday and he says hush-mat etc is almost impossible for him to blast off. Thus my question about cab noise.
Is there a comparison between Butyl rubber mat and products like Luzard Skin?
Funny you say that about the inside of the door. When I was posting the pic I thought the same thing. I guess I most likely didn't do it because I wanted to make sure I had enough for the all the other areas. But now that I know that I do I'll go back and put some in there.
I would think installing it inside your doors will help reduce noise too.
LizardSkin, at least their original formulation, was intended to coat the interior surfaces of metal that was exposed to the environment...that is, floor, roof, firewall, doors, etc and provides a layer of thermal insulation for the interior of the cab. Two coats of LS is advertised to provide a 40 degree drop in temperature from the outer skin to the interior of the coated panel. LizardSkin is hard when cured and thus provides very little in the way of sound dampening. I spray LizardSkin first to dissipate/reflect heat and then Dynamat to dampen vibration. If you really want to attain a high level of sound dampening then a layer of closed cell foam and MLV (mass loaded vinyl) is needed. The closed cell foam and MLV is what is used in theaters to isolate the auditorium rattling sound from an action movie in one theater from the theater adjacent.
BJ the overdrive transmission will certainly help a lot. My rear axle is a 4:10 w/TrakLok but that seems good with the 4R70W's 30% overdrive. I may not be able to do 130 mph but it certainly does great at normal driving speeds. I used X-Mat from Eastwood. The 34.8 sq. ft. box covered the floor and back of cab. I used the insulation tape too on all exposed edges to seal them. And the roller is a must as are gloves.
LizardSkin, at least their original formulation, was intended to coat the interior surfaces of metal that was exposed to the environment...that is, floor, roof, firewall, doors, etc and provides a layer of thermal insulation for the interior of the cab. Two coats of LS is advertised to provide a 40 degree drop in temperature from the outer skin to the interior of the coated panel. LizardSkin is hard when cured and thus provides very little in the way of sound dampening. I spray LizardSkin first to dissipate/reflect heat and then Dynamat to dampen vibration. If you really want to attain a high level of sound dampening then a layer of closed cell foam and MLV (mass loaded vinyl) is needed. The closed cell foam and MLV is what is used in theaters to isolate the auditorium rattling sound from an action movie in one theater from the theater adjacent.
Thanks Charlie,
I wanna be able to cruise listening to my Jazz.
BJ I used xmat-sound-deadening. The 34.8 sq. ft. box covered the floor and back of cab. I used the insulation-tape too on all exposed edges to seal them. And the x-mat-application-roller is a must as are gloves.
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Thanks Charlie,
I wanna be able to cruise listening to my Jazz.
Now THAT'S a worthwhile endeavor!
I'm a tenor sax man myself, I love the sound of a good running engine but there's no improvisation in that. Good luck.
Take a look at this site: https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
Don Sambrook is a very knowledgeable guy and is happy to share his knowledge and products with anyone who is interested in sound deadening. He has given me some very insightful recommendations for treating my vehicles...some is pretty straightforward and some is "damn why didn't I think about that". Good stuff all the same.
I also could hear jack while idling or driving,I dynamited the entire cab and left it a few weeks, forgot I'd done it so when I next started truck thought something was wrong with eng as so quiet,out on the road you'll still hear eng but can have a chat now,no metal resonance nor and tapping door skin,roof or floor gives a dull thud rather than a Tunney rattle...
A friend of mine who likes a different brand of old trucks told me about this stuff, claims it works great for sound deadening. Looks like the same stuff that Charlie talked about.
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