460 leaking behing water pump
Yesterday after my fall oil change, I was pressure cleaning my big block 460 in my 67 1/2 ton. after a run there was coolant leaking between the block and the housing that holds the dip stick. Of course it it a blown gasket after 28 years and 120,000 she's shot. Off to parts source, no w/p gasket or block to spacer gasket. Of course I picked up a new water pump as I'm not stupid enough to do this all again next year. Tonight after work and supper I fight for a couple of hours with fan, A/C, power st., and alternator etc etc. So its dark and the w/pump is finally off,,,,now I see the part I though was just an extension is actually very large. Now my question-----how much more do I have to pull off to get the 2 & 1/2 inch thingy to come off so as to re-gasket the beast. Is it actually going around the crank as it seems. Looks like the fuel pump will also have to come off, which means another gasket. Am I indanger of leaking anti freeze into my oil pan? That means yet another gasket is needed. Have any of you been through this and is there a web site to walk me through the mess I'm in. I'm no mechanic but I am a dedicated cheapskate. None of my vehicles get to vistit the shop except for when automatic transmission magic is required. Thank the Lord there Fords and seldom break. However I feel as I have opened the proverbial Can-O-Worms......HELP!

 

That's the front cover, also known as the timing cover. You're almost there on the removal. Just need the crank pully and balance weight (if you have one) off. And the fuel pump. Yes you probably have antifreeze in the oil. just don't run it til you change it. No need to change the pan gasket. Just a suggestion, but since you've already done 99.9% of the work, might spend the dollars on a timing set too.

Dart

 

I indeed DO have to pull the timing case cover????? What a pain in the a----. Now I must whack off the damper nut with an impact wrench and pull the pully with a puller right? Crud changing the water pump on my van with the 351 windsor was a breeze in comparison. Sure wish it had been parked in my garage when I started this mess. Yes since im already in so deep new timing chain and gears would now be a smart thing to do as the 460 has never been touched. I know cause my dad bought it when it was 3 months old. Gear sets run about 40 bucks. However I have heard about upgraded gear sets that can help performance???? I changed the gears on my van myself and do remember coolant tends to flow towards the oil pan. How about the front crank shaft seal any tips on reusing the old, vs replacing?

 

Unless I misunderstood where the leak is, yes you gots to pull it.

I just put a standard set in mine, but for a pre emmissions year, asked the counter guy for a 1970 lincoln set.

I would go ahead and replace the front seal too, use a little emery on the pully to clean the seating surface up, I used my large bench vise to press it in, you can use a large socket and tap it in with a hammer too. just go slow and don't force it.

the local autozone should have a loaner for the puller if you don't have one handy.

Dart.

 

The two and one half inch thingy is the timing chain cover. If the leak is not coming from the weep slot, as Superdave offers as a suggestion, then it is in fact either rotted through or the gasket is blown. The cover is aluminum and will corrode through which will normally require a new cover.

So, if it is either the cover or the gasket it will have to come off. There is a gasket set for this job which will provide the timing cover gasket, front crank seal, fuel pump, and the front oil pan gaskets needed. It may also provide the two water pump gaskets as well.

You will need to drain your oil and the cooling system and there may be some coolant that gets in the front of the oil pan. If you can get the block drain plugs out it will help greatly in fully draining the coolant and minimizing the amount of coolant that can get in the pan. The block drain plugs are on both sides, a little above the oil pan, and on the starter side it is just ahead on the starter.

To get the timing cover off you will need to remove the crank pulleys and then the harmonic balancer, which will require a puller. When putting it back together make sure all gasket surfaces are completely clean. The timing cover will not sit low enough to allow for the bolts to get started so get an extra set of hands, a couple of long screw drivers or short pry bars. You will need to leverage it down enough to get the lower bolts started. This is due to the new pan gaskets not being compressed. It is a good idea to do a dry run before you slather everything with RTV so that you know how it is going to go together.

Also, while you are in there you may want to check your timing chain for excessive stretch and replace it too.

Good luck,

Mark

 

Yes If I'm in that deep I will surely change the chain and gears. However I'm learning that a set from an earlier 460 or 429 will improve torque and mabye gas mileage. Whadda ya know about that angle. I just visited the web site for Cloyes chains and gears and found this web page. http://racingparts.streetracingshop.com/?x=207&y=61
Here is what it says there----- 68-71 429 & 460 ENGINES TIMING IS SET STRAIGHT UP FROM THE FACTORY 72-95 429 & 460 ENGINES TIMING IS SET 8 DEGREES RETARDED FROM THE FACTORY. THESE TWO SETS MAY BE INTERCHANGED TO ALTER OR INHANCE PERFORMANCE.

Maybe I'm on the right track?????

 

Go for the straight up timing set, 88-97 460's are straight up too, just in case you cant find a pre 72' set. I replaced my timing set after 205,000 miles, I cant believe the chain didnt fall off! it was soo stretched. I was thinking I needed a rebuild but it took care of all the problems I was having with the motor. The timing chain gasket kit will usually come with a seal for the main.

 

nice thing bout the 88 up chains, they are a double (I can't really say roller) chain so they'll be better than the pre 70's chain