So, there is no change in how the truck drives after completing the injector torque-meaning it drives fine.

Interestingly, I removed the P side valve cover again to replace the UVCH with a new Ford parts (old one was only a couple years old) because I was getting a P1275 (injector 5 High to Low side open) code and after messing with the connections presumed a new UVCH may be the fix. Well, the code persists. This is when doing the injector buzz test. Truck drives fine though. Any thoughts?

 

I'd suggest you ignore the codes produced during a test if there are no other symptoms.

Once the recall CPS was introduced, we started seeing strange readings in the perdels on #3, #5, and as always, #8.

If you're not getting a CEL from normal driving or any symptoms, my vote is ignore it. If the CEL pops up without the test but there are no symptoms, then I'd start looking for chaffed wires around the 42 pin connector or the IDM. There's a small possibility it's injector related as well. If the CEL is coming on with no tests, then you can also try and swap the #5 with either 3 or 7 and see if the code follows the injector or stays in the same hole.

Of course the first step should be to verify that you can actually clear the code in question and it's not just left over from some time ago. Clear the code, scan again and make sure it's not there before restarting the engine or running any tests again.

 

There is no CEL from this, it popped up in the Buzz test when I was playing around with AE. I am thinking it's a non issue. The injectors aren't that old either and are new PIS so not likely an issue there.

 

My personal preference. Torque'em and be done. I have followed old directions from Swamps....knock them with a deadblow. I can be convinced of the cold torque and 1x hothe torque.

But, I'mean really curious of how the factory them.

 

I'd like to point out.

1. 10 inlbs extra isnt going to damage threads whatsoever. I was shocked to see people going full karen over it...the hold down bolts aren't torque to yield to begin with, You think less than 1ftlb is the difference between tight and ****ed? Nah. The best torque wrenches out they're still have a 2-3% accuracy, and that's assuming it's brand new or freshly calibrated....now, obviously torque specs mean something, and in general should be followed....but give the guy a break. In theory if you did stretch the bolt to its yield point (without it breaking of course) it should give you the strongest, most consistent clamp load anyways. But I digress

2. Just because the torque spec is 120inlbs from the factory and they dont have problems; doesn't mean you won't....we have no way to duplicate factory conditions at all.... These aren't clean, Virgin engines and surfaces, they're not comfortably placed in front of you, there's no automated machine to press injectors and install bolts at the same time, precisely in the manner/order an engineer defined etc etc etc.

I've done these by the book to the T, and have still had issues. (Usually 2-3k later) Especially if you're replacing the injector cups as well. It definitely happens.

*Assuming it was cleaned properly* The problem isn't the bolts backing off, it's the new soft copper washers, soft bronze cups, and new o rings "relaxing/mating" after x amount of heat cycles/miles/vibration. As the metals crush and o rings form to the cup, the tension subsides and now you only have 50-60 inlbs of clamp load.

I personally don't use loctite. The best method I've found is: seat injectors with a mallet, torque to 120 inlbs. Go around with the mallet again. Set torque again. (If Any move a lot, go for another round of mallet/torque) until you have a consistent, accurate repeatable torque on all 8. Start and drive it for 2‐300miles or maybe 5-10 complete heat cycles. Now use mallet and Set torque the last time and that should take care of it.

I sure wish they would have just put a larger bolt in there from the start though. It would be nice just to crank it to 40 ftlbs and be done with it.

 

I just went through a retorque after replacing the engine 50k miles ago. Checked rocker pedestals and injectors. All were still up to spec and that was after cracking the threads loose and retightening. Came to the conclusion that I didn't need to pull the valve covers, but I had no way of knowing that until I sucked it up and did it anyway. Last engine it was a different story. Half the rocker bolts were loose and every injector hold down was loose. Engine that was installed was a Ford reman.

 

I've checked torque multiple times after my first time under the valve covers for glow plugs. They've never budged after the 1st time I set them. Even after I replaced injectors. Still held rock steady where I set them and didn't seat any farther.

There is a point really close to where I torqued them to that they will fail. And it's actually closer to 120 than you would assume. Those bolts have a engineering limit, not the standard torque x size grade fastener tables, but the engineering tables for those head stamps where they are designed and repeatedly tested to failure point.

I can't find where I had it saved but believe it's approximately 18% above the factory torque point. Which sounds like a lot, until you do the math, 18% of 120 is only 142 to the failure point. Which is really close to where I torqued to and could feel the bolts reaching their absolute limit.

Which is why an inch pound wrench is critical instead of ye old/new foot pound wrench. Do you think your foot pound wrench ,regardless of brand, will be dialed in to exactly less than 0.2 foot pounds? 2 foot pounds above factory and snap...= Bad week or month long repair