Wanting to replace the back glass seal. I think
#1
Wanting to replace the back glass seal. I think
So I've been dealing with it since I have owned the truck and it only really becomes any sort of a noticeable issue when it rains. The back glass leaks from the top down onto the rubber seal and obviously down the back of the inside of the cab which I'm sure is not helping any sort of future rust issues. I don't mind getting in there and doing it myself but before I tackle a project like this I just wanted to hear from some of those you may have done it on their experience with replacing the seal on the back window and if there's anything that I should avoid. 72' ranger.. solid window
#2
Not a hard job. Use a good razor knife to cut the rubber enough(outside) for the glass to be removed. The glass sits in a channel of rubber and if you cut the bottom of the channel loose the glass will fall out easily.
Put the new rubber on the glass, use lots of WD40 or PB to lubricate the channel and slip a piece of small diameter rope around the channel. Get a helper that can hold the glass against the rear of the cab as you sit inside and carefully pull the rope around. Making sure the rubber lip comes over the pinch of the cab window opening. Keep pushing in on window and work around slowly. Might take a couple tries, but it will slip into place.
I've typically only replaced solid glass with a slider, but it all works the same.
Put the new rubber on the glass, use lots of WD40 or PB to lubricate the channel and slip a piece of small diameter rope around the channel. Get a helper that can hold the glass against the rear of the cab as you sit inside and carefully pull the rope around. Making sure the rubber lip comes over the pinch of the cab window opening. Keep pushing in on window and work around slowly. Might take a couple tries, but it will slip into place.
I've typically only replaced solid glass with a slider, but it all works the same.
#4
It's a cake walk.
You ask a question and get a poop ton of answers.
I use 5/16 cord ( rope not twine) lube up the body groove with Vaseline, two ends of the cord at the top of the glass. Pull the cord JUST hard enough to get the rubber to come to the inside of the cab. On the corners, slow down. By now you think you're comfortable to keep going. Slow down and WORK the cord around the corner to manipulate the seal into the cab. The Vaseline acts like a hydrolic sealant. 20 years and mine hasn't leaked a drop.
You ask a question and get a poop ton of answers.
I use 5/16 cord ( rope not twine) lube up the body groove with Vaseline, two ends of the cord at the top of the glass. Pull the cord JUST hard enough to get the rubber to come to the inside of the cab. On the corners, slow down. By now you think you're comfortable to keep going. Slow down and WORK the cord around the corner to manipulate the seal into the cab. The Vaseline acts like a hydrolic sealant. 20 years and mine hasn't leaked a drop.
#5
It's a cake walk.
You ask a question and get a poop ton of answers.
I use 5/16 cord ( rope not twine) lube up the body groove with Vaseline, two ends of the cord at the top of the glass. Pull the cord JUST hard enough to get the rubber to come to the inside of the cab. On the corners, slow down. By now you think you're comfortable to keep going. Slow down and WORK the cord around the corner to manipulate the seal into the cab. The Vaseline acts like a hydrolic sealant. 20 years and mine hasn't leaked a drop.
You ask a question and get a poop ton of answers.
I use 5/16 cord ( rope not twine) lube up the body groove with Vaseline, two ends of the cord at the top of the glass. Pull the cord JUST hard enough to get the rubber to come to the inside of the cab. On the corners, slow down. By now you think you're comfortable to keep going. Slow down and WORK the cord around the corner to manipulate the seal into the cab. The Vaseline acts like a hydrolic sealant. 20 years and mine hasn't leaked a drop.
sounds easy enough. Now for a Sunny day
#6
Applying some if this will ensure a leak - free seal.
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...3194048&rt=rud
It never hardens and stays tacky/pliable.
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...3194048&rt=rud
It never hardens and stays tacky/pliable.
#7
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#8
#9
Join Date: Aug 2003
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His reply was we don't use any soapy water due to possible causing rust.
I see where it could be a problem in the colder climates when installing with a rope.
Orich
#10
Got the seal in from DC today. Seems to be fairly good quality, but what do I know.....anyway. Probably gonna tackle this Monday if the weather holds. Seeing as how I haven’t done this before, is there anything I need to know about the chrome trim removal and reinstallation? Also, where does the moulded seam in the rubber go? On the middle top or middle bottom? My current is at the top and ironically exactly where the leak is. Oh yea. Why do some say use glass sealer and some say don’t? And lastly, the glass sealer goes between the glass and the rubber correct? Not the rubber and the truck
#11
#12
#14
Applying some if this will ensure a leak - free seal.
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...3194048&rt=rud
It never hardens and stays tacky/pliable.
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...3194048&rt=rud
It never hardens and stays tacky/pliable.
#15
You'll need a caulk gun to apply it, but its the best stuff for this. The stuff they use on modern automotive glass isn't what you want, but all of the stores have it...