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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

239 distributor lead

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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 08:19 PM
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239 distributor lead

The little wire that comes from the coil to the points in distributor on my 51 F3 239 is missing some insulation under.the cap. I would like to change the wire. Do I have to remove the whole distr. to get that done? Or can that be done from up top. Those of you guys that been inside these 239 flatheads will know .
 
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 09:14 PM
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People have done it with the dizzy in place, but I can't imagine what a PITA that would be. It takes less than 5 minutes to pull the distributor out and you'll be able to see what you're doing.

The hard part is getting the new wire on the post on the bottom of the distributor, and threading it under the plate to the points. You can run it as a single piece of wire by tossing the insulated terminal on the bottom, and running the wire thru that hole all the way to the coil. The replacements sold for this are made to do that, and have a rubber plug molded to the wire to fit in that hole.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 09:28 PM
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Ok Ross, check my method here. Points are out of dist. So i am going to roll motor over till pointer is lined up with tit on crank pully at the same time rotor is pointing to #1 cyl on distrubutor cap. Then pull dist and repair wire. Replace distributor and have rotor pointing at #1 again. Perhaps if possible, put a little paint mark on dist and block to help line up. Set point gap at that place and it should start , + or -
 
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 09:47 PM
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Yep, that will do it. Remember to disconnect the wire at the coil first.

I just pulled my distributor today. I just noted where the rotor was pointing at the time (5:00), and yanked it. As long as you don't rotate the engine, it really doesn't matter where the rotor is pointing, as long as it goes back in the same place. One tooth off is a pretty noticeable difference.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 10:00 PM
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I have a spare dist from a parts engine. I can see what a dirty sob it will be to fish that primary wire under that base plate. Might try a little safety wire hooked to it before I remove it to pull the replacement wire back. If not then,-----''' you have to punch that pin out of the drive gear to remove distributor shaft I presume?
 
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 10:08 PM
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Yes, and that pin is a horrid job. But you do not need to resort to that. At worst, disconnect and remove the vacuum can, then you can rotate the points plate so that the part that is cut back is over the wire's route. (highlighted part below) Removing the condenser helps too, as I recall.


 
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 10:34 PM
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Ok, I will get it done this weekend. So, Albuquerque I presume? My folks were from there. I stI'll had family there until recently.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 10:38 PM
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Well, sort of -- Rio Rancho now.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 10:47 PM
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As I recall that is north of Abq. Anyway, thanks for the help.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2017 | 09:19 PM
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Good thing I pulled the distributor. The vacume advance diaphram was shot. Plim missing in fact. I had no ideal it was shot from the way it ran. See if Napa has one in morning g
.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2017 | 10:15 PM
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NAPA shows to have them, but C&G is about $10 cheaper.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHVC915
https://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/ford...er=7RA-12370-B

NAPA quality might be worth it, especially after C&G's shipping.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2017 | 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by cowdog86
The little wire that comes from the coil to the points in distributor on my 51 F3 239 is missing some insulation under.the cap. I would like to change the wire. Do I have to remove the whole distr. to get that done? Or can that be done from up top. Those of you guys that been inside these 239 flatheads will know .
C0DF-12216-A .. Primary Wire-Coil to Points (Motorcraft DW-10).

1948/56 misc I-6 & V8 trucks; 1960/65 144/170/200/240 I-6 engines in cars/trucks.
 
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