Hoping there's enough experience here to help me make a decision. I've been looking for an older truck to have as a project and enjoy driving on weekends etc. I found a '69 F100 that fits the bill but not sure how much of a project I'm getting into.

I'm an engineer and consider myself pretty good mechanically but have never done much work on cars/trucks. What am I getting into if I need to do engine, exhaust work, replace body panels etc? Is there much cutting/welding to do or are body panels generally bolted on? Can most of the work I may need to do be done with the usual tools?

Sorry for the rookie questions. I want to get into this truck but don't want to be way over my head and regret it.

https://reading.craigslist.org/cto/d...253035737.html

 

Nice looking truck. But I don't see $3900.00 worth. At least if it were here in Arizona. I don't know if the rigs in your neck of the woods are more expensive. It would depend on what he's already done, what needs to be done, and what all new parts would go with it. Patch panels are usually welded on. But, if done right they can be Bonded on. With an adhesive like Ford Motorcraft part number TA-1 (1.7 oz tube) or TA-1B (7.6 oz). Then bondo to blend them in.





TA-1 1.7 fl. oz. (50 mL)
Metal Bonding Adhesive
156626
161171
1 TA-1 and 1
mixing nozzle
Medium-set adhesive for
bonding unprimed metal
and aluminum; door
skin replacement;
weld bonding

 

Overall, at least from what's seen in the photos, the truck looks to be in pretty good shape. Look under the truck for rust in the floor pans, cab mounts, the drop-offs at the rear of the cab (just forward of the bed), battery tray/right inner fender apron/lower right corner of the radiator core support, the leading edge of the doors, trailing edge of the front fenders and around the rain gutter running across the top of the windshield and over the tops of the doors.

These are some of the primary places rust develops in these trucks. If you're the least bit mechanically inclined, there probably isn't too much you can't do on one of these trucks. They are pretty simple machines to work on. Whether you purchase this truck or another, I would highly suggest buying a Ford Truck Shop Manual for the particular year model truck you purchase. It will include lots of diagrams, step-by-step procedures, fill capacities and torque specifications of the various components.

If you purchase a truck and begin working on it and encounter problems, there are plenty of knowledgeable guys on this forum who'll be happy to help you out. All you have to do is ask --including photos of what you're working on would also greatly help with giving you more accurate advice as to what needs to be done.

Whatever truck you are looking at, look it over really well before any money changes hands. Don't let your heart over rule your mind about any given truck. And lastly, never offer what the seller is asking for a truck. Offer less. Worst they can say is "no" but, if they will take less, that's just that much money you have to start putting towards repairs or improvements.

 

Thanks for the info. Couple other photos of the truck where its rusted. Patch panels come with the truck.

What do you guys think?







Bed



Bed

 

I'd pass. On rigs like that, especially in the snow belt, there is always more rust than what you see at 1st.
Have you thought of buying a truck outside of the snow belt and having it transported to you?

 

Holy Toledo! Rust free trucks in the Midwest 'rust belt' and in the east will be more expensive, due to the fact that very few remain.

Here in the desert southwest, the reason that there are far more of these trucks (many have no rust), is the arid climate where it only snows at higher elevations and salt may not be used on the roads.

'Course, this '69 F100 Ranger has rust and besides what you can see in the pics and despite what the seller claims, some of it has probably been covered up with bondo.

tpo209: There are 2 caveats when buying old vehicles:

1) Do not believe a single word that private sellers claim, as they lie just like used/new car dealers, lawyers, politicians and TV evangelists.

2) Do not believe miles shown on odometers, as they read to 99999.9 then return to ZERO!

 

I wasn't going to say this, but now that Bill brought it up, I think the amount of rust the truck really has is THE reason the seller is selling it.

 

Look at the bed floor, it's not the original.

Floor was probably rusted out, then someone welded in a piece of 'plain-jane' steel, then covered it with that ugly diamond plate, that has been peeled back.

Look at the rusty bed cross member. Is there a patch panel for that? No...and if one is rusty, you can bet the farm that the others are in the same condition.

Truck in reality is rusty mess, gawd only knows what the mechanical condition is. Seller says he needs the garage space, probably for something else he bought since it's a 3 car garage.

There's a 2004/2008 F150 parked on the street in the background.

 

The truck has way more rust than you see since the trucks rust from the inside out. Like those kick panels, they are so pitted and thin on the backside you will have to replace them all the way to the dash.

But you are on the right track. I've owned more Ford pickups than I can count and consider the 1969 to be the epitome. It was the last year before plastic started creeping in. Later model power steering and disc brakes are a bolt on so these trucks are modern enough to drive every day, anywhere you live. A 72 custom is the only vehicle I have ever put over 100,000 miles on but cumulatively I have put close to half a million miles on bump side pickups. They are great, Keep looking.

 

I'd pass. Look for one in: WA., OR., CA., AR, NV. NM. ID. WY., UT.,TX.

You may find one for less than this and in better cond. Shipping the truck can vary but I paid $800. Had to wait a while for it but I wasn't concerned.

After I finish restoring my 72' I'm going to look for a 65 or 66'. The slicks have always been my favorite. More character in the body. I love my bump though.

 

The rust on the kick panel and door sill area behind the passenger fender is a huge pain to fix.They don't make a good patch panel for it so you will be fabricating. If you have to ask, then probably better pass

 

Learn how to weld and the rust on these trucks (and other vehicles) aren't so daunting. A decent welder is about $600 (Miller, Hobart, Lincoln).. add another $400 for a as bottle, two grinders, clamps, magnets, consumables, etc and you'll be at $1000. Now figure shop time is let's say $80 an hour... do the math. In other words, invest in yourself with a new skill and it'll pay for itself over a lifetime.

.. and if you do start welding be careful because all sorts of friends will come your way. I've repaired and done odd jobs for quite few people so it's a skill that is useful for horse-trading. I eked out five steak dinners from my pal for the things I've done for him.

Recently, me and a couple of guys at work formed a 24 Hours of Lemons race team (https://24hoursoflemons.com/) and picked up an unfinished race car, an 83 VW GTI, for pennies. The "bummer" is that I'm the only one that welds and am doing most of the finish work!... Honestly, it kinda sucks at the moment!!

Chevy trucks are more or less bolted assemblies.. especially the beds. Parts cost less and are widely available. But then everybody has one... why be a lemming? But if you're set on a Ford, then we will welcome you aboard and help you on your journey.

Btw, a rig from CA is not a guarantee that it is rust free. Chances are they are better than rigs from the northmidwest or east but we have our own share of clapped out cars n trucks.

.

 

I would pass on this truck. Way too much rust, and once you start fixing it, you won't stop until you have it torn all apart and the parts are strewn around the Garage and basement, and dumped thousands of extra dollars in and you haven't put 500 miles on it since you have owned it. Mechanical repairs are one thing, and on these trucks is pretty simple, but rust is another thing and I hate rust!

Hahaha spend your money outside of Penn and save yourself the time, so you can drive and enjoy the truck. Go south. I'm in Indiana and bought my truck out of GA and had it shipped. You can't find a truck around here that doesn't look exactly like the one you are looking at. It may take a little patience to find the right one, but they're out there. Just my two cents. Good Luck

KOT390

 

Thanks all for the advice. If I'm going to try and find one from the south/west where is the best place to look? Craigslist?

 

My buddy just bought a 78 bronco off of craigslist in AZ. He sent me a link and wanted me to go look at it because he was in Alaska. My buddy was looking at pics on his phone. I had the advantage of a large monitor on my desktop. The seller had strategically taken pictures to hide the fact that the truck didn't have a front bumper. I noticed that in the pics the radius arms were unhooked. When questioned, the seller said it was so he could change the clutch. Sounded like BS to me and I wondered what else the guy was hiding. I found my buddy a different truck in much better shape with a pile of receipts for work that had been done. It was about $1000 more but he had much better piece of mind.
Get good pictures, grill the seller on what's been done. Make sure it has a title and that it matches the VIN on the door. You might not think that's a big deal, until somebody steals your truck
Phoenix always has good listings. And believe it or not, Seattle. If it comes from the southwest, the interior and paint will probably be baked.
Be aware of scams. If somebody is selling but they are in the military and overseas, chances are it's a scam. If the phone number or e-mail is on the picture of the vehicle, it's probably a scam.