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M5OD R2 install question

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Old Aug 30, 2017 | 01:42 PM
  #1  
Uni Moe's Avatar
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M5OD R2 install question

I've almost got my auto trans out and will be installing the M5R2. I thought I read somewhere that the trans needs to be "sucked in" the last little bit by tightening the bell bolts because of a spring? that won't allow you to hand push it back? Is this true? I'm a bit paranoid of breaking something if it's not perfectly lined up in the pilot bearing.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2017 | 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Uni Moe
I've almost got my auto trans out and will be installing the M5R2. I thought I read somewhere that the trans needs to be "sucked in" the last little bit by tightening the bell bolts because of a spring? that won't allow you to hand push it back? Is this true? I'm a bit paranoid of breaking something if it's not perfectly lined up in the pilot bearing.
I don't recall this after installing a couple years ago with the hydraulic clutch, cannot speak to the manual clutch. Get a pilot bearing tool so that you can center the clutch disc before tighening bolts onto the flywheel, I recommend using a trans jack so that you can carefully guide into place get a couple bolts started and handle like any other install. At least that's the way I remember it ....
 
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Old Aug 30, 2017 | 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Uni Moe
I've almost got my auto trans out and will be installing the M5R2. I thought I read somewhere that the trans needs to be "sucked in" the last little bit by tightening the bell bolts because of a spring? that won't allow you to hand push it back? Is this true? I'm a bit paranoid of breaking something if it's not perfectly lined up in the pilot bearing.
I had to do just that when I reinstalled my trans. I was told later that I could've broken the ears off the bell housing. I was really careful and went slowly when I did it. I was also working alone and laying under the truck. Perhaps a second person would've negated the need for using the bolts to get the trans to seat. I could have been that the hydraulic fluid in the slave cylinder was keeping the trans from easily seating against the block.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2017 | 11:50 PM
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Uni Moe
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,

I have a centering tool that came with the new clutch. I also have two 4" bolts I've cut the heads off of to put in the block to help to guide the trans back straight.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2021 | 06:37 AM
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Old thread, but I just mated up my old M5OD to a 351 last night. New flywheel, clutch and pressure plate, but old slave stayed in the tranny.

As previously said, and I can confirm, couple times I put this tranny on my 302 (different clutch and flywheel) it did in fact smack into place against the block in a very comforting way.

Last night I struggled to get it in any farther past where the pins on the block make contact with the bellhousing. So I used the mounting bolts to gently, evenly bring the tranny to the block that extra half inch or so. As I recalled from the 302, having to do this was not the case previously, and I was concerned. So I pulled the tranny back out, inspected the input shaft, slave, and pilot bearing, and all looked good, so I reinstalled the same way. I have to assume that the fingers on the pressure plate are making contact with the slave. It rotates freely, so I'm sending in.

Was looking for this discussion this morning and want to chime in. Until I can prove it with mileage, I feel it is OK to use the bolts to seat the tranny to the block with little resistance.

Thanks,
-Glaser67
 
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