Timing chain replacement
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From: Indiana
Timing chain replacement
Hey guys, I have a question, has any body replace their timing chain and guides on a 2005 4.6 2 v romeo engine do you need the camshaft holding tool for this engine I have read on the 5.4 3 and 4 v the cams can turn and bend the valves so any info would help. Thanks
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2016
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I have the 5.4 and I used the cam gear holding tool
I haven't worked on your engine but there is a work around on mine to get phasor gear off and on . They use two vise grips behind gear to keep it firm .
It can't be on any cam lobe or bearing surface .
I hate buying special tools but on my engine I chose to buy the cam gear tool . But you don't have phasor removal and re installation which takes 4 times of holding gear .
I will defer to those who have done your engine . If you had an old phasor and welder you might be able to make one . But that's a lot of trouble too.
It can't be on any cam lobe or bearing surface .
I hate buying special tools but on my engine I chose to buy the cam gear tool . But you don't have phasor removal and re installation which takes 4 times of holding gear .
I will defer to those who have done your engine . If you had an old phasor and welder you might be able to make one . But that's a lot of trouble too.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2016
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ebay 45$
https://www.ebay.com/p/Ford-Cam-Phas...046/1123367366
But if you aren't going to take gear off cam why have it . Just set up timing point first before you take chains off . Once they are off you don't want to move crank or cams . I pull cams anyway so there is no issue as valves are all up . But you have to know what you are doing . Set up timing points before removing chains triple check and mark . Then the chain and gear may only have to move a few degrees to line up . Direction of cam lobes and timing marks important . You can't get chain on with gear locking tool in place . You must by hand when finished turn crank 2 rev's clockwise to prove no valve contact . Read procedure many times . Understand it and how it works . Get a second pair of hands and talk it thru .
It should be easier than a 5.4 with phasors ,no need to pull gear . Goodness knows you have a lot more room to deal with .
But if you aren't going to take gear off cam why have it . Just set up timing point first before you take chains off . Once they are off you don't want to move crank or cams . I pull cams anyway so there is no issue as valves are all up . But you have to know what you are doing . Set up timing points before removing chains triple check and mark . Then the chain and gear may only have to move a few degrees to line up . Direction of cam lobes and timing marks important . You can't get chain on with gear locking tool in place . You must by hand when finished turn crank 2 rev's clockwise to prove no valve contact . Read procedure many times . Understand it and how it works . Get a second pair of hands and talk it thru .
It should be easier than a 5.4 with phasors ,no need to pull gear . Goodness knows you have a lot more room to deal with .
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,653
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The job of the chain is to synchronize the crank and the cams
If they are not synced or timed --same thing that's when you get a valve to piston hit . Be sure of you line up on timing marks and chain links . Pay close attn to direction of cam lobes each side .
Turning crank at end by hand will tell you if its clear ,usually a large 32mm socket on crank key way turns it by hand you will fight compression if plugs not out . Don't fail to do this, it should turn easy with no clunk and yes you will lose your timing marks it won't line up exactly for 122 revs .
Come back if you get your head balled up . If a friend will help you look at it and you explain it to him and he agrees that will help a lot . You learn the most when you try to teach someone else .
Turning crank at end by hand will tell you if its clear ,usually a large 32mm socket on crank key way turns it by hand you will fight compression if plugs not out . Don't fail to do this, it should turn easy with no clunk and yes you will lose your timing marks it won't line up exactly for 122 revs .
Come back if you get your head balled up . If a friend will help you look at it and you explain it to him and he agrees that will help a lot . You learn the most when you try to teach someone else .
5th Wheeling
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 30
Likes: 1
Unsure how this applies, vis-avis, the tool, but his 2V has no phaser.
I haven't worked on your engine but there is a work around on mine to get phasor gear off and on . They use two vise grips behind gear to keep it firm .
It can't be on any cam lobe or bearing surface .
I hate buying special tools but on my engine I chose to buy the cam gear tool . But you don't have phasor removal and re installation which takes 4 times of holding gear .
I will defer to those who have done your engine . If you had an old phasor and welder you might be able to make one . But that's a lot of trouble too.
It can't be on any cam lobe or bearing surface .
I hate buying special tools but on my engine I chose to buy the cam gear tool . But you don't have phasor removal and re installation which takes 4 times of holding gear .
I will defer to those who have done your engine . If you had an old phasor and welder you might be able to make one . But that's a lot of trouble too.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,653
Likes: 193
The nice thing about the cheap gear holding tool is when you need to torque cam gear / phasor . No worry about vise grips slipping etc . The 3v usually requires changing both phasors and doing a two step torque on installation so you use it at least 4 times during a timing job .
Yes it is good business to pull chains off at timing point . But changing roller followers/lashs if required is so much easier pulling cams and inspecting all surfaces .
I usually set all rollers in place and slowly tighten bolts in sequence the sneak up on torque value watching all rollers staying in place , torque on the 3v is 89 inch pounds /around 7.5 foot pounds ,too low to use a foot pound tool . Of course the lobes on cam are set just like the ford instructions at timing point .
Using that valve tool is not for me .
Good luck on yours , its simple when you truly understand the engine timing .
Yes it is good business to pull chains off at timing point . But changing roller followers/lashs if required is so much easier pulling cams and inspecting all surfaces .
I usually set all rollers in place and slowly tighten bolts in sequence the sneak up on torque value watching all rollers staying in place , torque on the 3v is 89 inch pounds /around 7.5 foot pounds ,too low to use a foot pound tool . Of course the lobes on cam are set just like the ford instructions at timing point .
Using that valve tool is not for me .
Good luck on yours , its simple when you truly understand the engine timing .
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