while my engine is out getting rebuilt, i am redoing the brakes.

i bought a new master cylinder, 4 new wheel cylinders, new shoes all the way around and new front hoses. the drums are in very good condition.

are there any common problems when replacing brakes? what should i look for? any hints, tips, tricks?

 

What about the rear hose?
Now's the time to replace it. When they get old, they can swell shut. BTDT, it wasn't fun when you discover your truck has brakes only on the rear axle.
Me, I'd be converting to discs, since I have ticked myself off enough fighting with drums, springs, shoes, retainers and all that junk.

 

I recently replaced all of the brake shoes, drums and rebuilt one slave cylinder on my '66 F-100. The only "problem" is that it took awhile for the new shoes to bed into the new drums. If you have the same "problem", be prepared for some longer than expected stopping distances. The brakes are much better now with a couple of hundred miles on the odometer.

 

Turn your drums and make sure they are within spec after they are turned. Mine cracked because they were turned one too many times. Converting to front discs is worth it. It will cost $700-$800 if you do it yourself and $1100-$1500 if you have it done. The increased stopping power and safety is worth the money.

 

Last summer I did all that without having drums turned.
This summer after after checking with FTE on why brakes were still not good someone suggested that I get drums turned (which I overlooked cause they looked good).
And boy howdee did it make a difference !

If you got the time and money, disc brakes are the best.

Ps. what exactly are you having done to your engine?

 

I think you can do a do it yourself disc conversion in a 66 for a lot less money that $700.

I just got everything for $250. Admittedly, I got lucky in that my pads, calipers and rotors are almost new -- someone went through the front end before they wrecked her. The master and booster were included too.

I may have to replace the king pins ($50) and I'll need a pair of new hoses.

Since you have a 66, your tires (with the "outie" rims) might fit fine. And I'm not sure its fair to count the cost of new rims as part of a brake conversion anyhow. If they don't fit, rims are not that expensive anyhow, if your taste is not outrageous.

You'll need to learn some plumbing skills, but a lot of guys are doing this. My impression is that its not hard to do -- probably hard to get the lines looking perfect, but not so hard to get them to work and be a lot safer than your old system.

My $.02

later....

 

Unfortunately, many people ignore the hard lines on old vehicles. This is a huge mistake, due to the fact that serious rust inhibitors have only been an ingredient in brake fluid since about 79 or so. This, along with the fact many ignore fully flushing the entire brake system, which removes most condensation, can give "mystery" brake problems. So while you're at it, get a coil of stainless steel or aluminum line (3/16 usually), and all the fittings you need from summit or any other reputable aftermarket place, and replace it all. Line and fittings (flare tool included) shouldn't run more than $200. Definitely cheap insurance that will probably outlast the truck.

 

You'll find out just how bad those steel lines are rusted when you try to loosen them.
Once you get the hang of it, making the steel lines is easy. I actually think it's fun. The only part I hate is the constant back-and-forth under the truck to make sure my latest bend fits.
I'd say the average disc brake swap runs $500-750, depending on how cheap and what condition donor parts you can get. The safety aspect is worth it to me; better braking is just a bonus.

 

Fast Frank,

I'm gonna hang my cap on ddavidvs' hook here. You can piddle around with drum brakes from now until tuesday after the 2nd coming and even if everything is "gahnsnoy" - new - perfect you will still only have drum brakes when you're done.

Drum brakes compared to disc brakes up front is lik comparing mechanical brakes, like on a model AA Ford truck from the 30's to power, hydraulic, brakes.

IOW Non sequeter / no comparison. If you want to stop your 60's Effy go for PDB system. Also if you have a 9" FoMoCo rear axle assy, get the 11' X 3" rear drum brakes from an F-150 trailer special package.

To do rear brake upgrade to 11" X 3" you need backing plates*, wheel cyls, park brake spreader & actuator lever, 11" X3" shoes & drums. Attaching hardware is same as rest of Fords- Wagner based systems.

* is because when getting BACKING PLATESyou need to make sure backing plate bolt pattern is same as bolt on your rear end housing. NOT ALL ARE, so check that out.

Point is, Disc brakes [power or manual style] are so superior to the best drum brake systems it's why the Automotive Industry switched to Disc Brakes so long ago.

Yes there are minor inconveniences, setbacks, and problems in converting from drum to P/D/B or D/B system, depending on the variables encountered, but the learning curve is not severe, well worth the time & effort, and once accomplished reduces cost over time & operation of the vehicle. Just thought you ought to know.

I also see a lot of folks agree with theDisc Brake Upgrade. FBp

 

Are there many differences between PDB and DB? I'm probably gonna do the swap myself, but I can live without the power assist if the difference isn't all that great.

 

You have to push harder on the pedal without the power booster. The difference is noticeable. How strong is your leg? If you have the extra money, get power disc brakes. It doesn't rob the engine of power. It's not heavy enough to wory about slowing you down. But power disc brakes are not necessary.

 

I have Power Disk Brakes on my 66 and i love it.
Stops as good as my newer truck.
As for the rear 11x3 drums... What exactly do you get these off of? What years etc, and how long does it take?
(mine may be done that way,but I dont think so)

Also, the Disk power brakes... help out a lot of your using a roll stop for drag racing :P

 

thanks for all the comments, i'll look into getting new hard lines for the rear. i already did the fronts last night. i might go for the disc brakes when it's time to do them again.

as for my motor, i was getting it rebuilt, but the shop called me yesterday and said they found a foot long crack in the block. now i'm looking to buy a new motor.

 

One more thing - once the drums are turned, the relined shoes don't fit perfectly. You might consider having them arced to fit the drums.
Eric

 

Andy,

Generally speaking, 74 thru 79 of 73-79 Models use bigger version of FoMoCos' 9" rear. F150s w/ 360CID or larger engine, Camper or Trailer Special chassis & set up, as well as F100 LWB chassis W/ 360CID or bigger engine, FMX or C6- A/T or Granny 4 gear, were supposed to come from OEM with these 31 spline 9's.

As said "Generally" you'll find 31 spline axle set up, & often a traction device rear differential. Effys w/ letter designation on their door data plate came with a traction device differential in those years, as a matter of fact.

If 73-79Effy came w/ Camper or Trailer Special option, or was spec'd w/ heavy axles it most likely will have 11"X3" rear Drums for brakes. MOST OF THE TIME [but not necessarily always] backing plate bolt pattern of axle housing flange is same. It must be verified to be sure, donch ya see?

All 31 spline rears have same flange bolt pattern, it's our slick 60s which vary. BUT whole 74-79 assembly, Park Brake Cables & all "bolt in" to our 60s F's in either case.

My 65 F100 was a 240CID 3Spd O/D when it was OEM & it came with a small Dana, not a 9 inch. I got away with using that Dana with the 240 & when I went to a 302 I kept it. It was getting a tad noisy around 200K mi.

When I dropped a 460 in, during early 90s I sent the Dana rear to "BOOGERS WOODS" the 1st week, testing tweaking & tuning!
That's how I found out about the 9" deal/info I laid on ya' above.

FBp