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Trying to get leverage is tough because the engine is mounted to engine stand too. I looked pretty close and i don't think the rods will let the crank by in their current positions, but drilling a stout piece of iron and bolting it to the crank is a wise move I will do Ross, thanks.
I do think that you are right, Don, if i get them all apart, cleaned and free, i may be able to pry her around....
Didn't get to it yesterday, more rain and had to take my 80 year old mom in for shoulder repair. She is home and fine (enjoying the new tv and Netflix I installed while she was in recovery.
Today, barring rain I'll try again.
I don't think you can get to all the rod bolts unless you can rotate the crank.
Agreed. I had this problem with an old stuck FE motor. I ended up removing the caps that I could, and tapped out the pistons that had clearance. Doing that relieved enough friction that I was finally able to turn the crank.
Be careful you don't tip the engine stand over, too! You'll be applying a lot of torque. Might be worth rigging another bar on the block to counteract the crankshaft torque.
Trying to get leverage is tough because the engine is mounted to engine stand too. I looked pretty close and i don't think the rods will let the crank by in their current positions, but drilling a stout piece of iron and bolting it to the crank is a wise move I will do Ross, thanks.
I do think that you are right, Don, if i get them all apart, cleaned and free, i may be able to pry her around....
Didn't get to it yesterday, more rain and had to take my 80 year old mom in for shoulder repair. She is home and fine (enjoying the new tv and Netflix I installed while she was in recovery.
Today, barring rain I'll try again.
How is the engine attached to the stand? Hopefully, not by the bellhousing.
That's not a problem on 8BA's (assuming you mean by the back of the block, not the actual bellhousing). 32 - 48 V8's are the ones that shouldn't be hung by the BH.
I made a turning socket that fits over the crankshaft snout with a slot that engages the key. It engages a 1/2 inch ratchet wrench or power handle. It's not pretty but gives lots of turning power. Curt in AZ
I made a turning socket that fits over the crankshaft snout with a slot that engages the key. It engages a 1/2 inch ratchet wrench or power handle. It's not pretty but gives lots of turning power. Curt in AZ
Yes, I did that also but my concern was that I would not want to break that bolt going into the crank. For serious torque I still think solid bolts to the flywheel would be safer.
Yes, I did that also but my concern was that I would not want to break that bolt going into the crank. For serious torque I still think solid bolts to the flywheel would be safer.
Perhaps my description was not clear enough. The device I made does not use the crank bolt at all. It bears on the crankshaft pulley key just like the ones they make for today's engines. Here is a picture of a Moroso unit for the chevy small block.
I looked all over the web for one before making my own crude one.
Maybe one of the suppliers can machine up a number of these to fit the flathead?
Those sockets are for turning the engine over to set valves, timing, etc. The snout is not very strong compared to the rear crank flange, and the key weakens it further. The snout is designed for accessory drive loads, while the rear is designed for full engine output plus some. For unsticking an engine I'd definitely use the rear flange. On V8's there is also a big hole in one of the counterweights that is handy to slip a piece of pipe into.
Well, been really busy-flew out to Army football opening game, win!
I took all of the advice, organized it in a way that increased the level of brute force.
The time away allowed the Kroil to penetrate even further. I liked the idea of making a piece of angle iron to attach to the rear flange of the crank, but I thought the idea of removing the main caps and rods would prove wise (didn't want to force it to turn if there was rust that might damage the journals). Here are a couple of pictures to show the rust I found. It was enough to cause it to stick tight but wiped right off. You can see that it comes off that easy in one of the pics.
rust along crank main You can see the rust just wipes away!
The rods were in similar condition. Once the caps were off I could push out 6 of the eight pistons/rods, rotate the crank and lift it past the two pistons that did not want to move. Now I am soaking/heating and love tapping the last two pistons. Well on the way to getting her apart! Patience is definitely the best tool!
Thanks all! I will post continued progress and all of the "I might as well as" things I do to get the engine ready!
Thanks! Especially the crank from what I have read on FTE. I will have to see how to tap and plug and with what... Still have the last two pistons/rods to remove. Try that Monday morning! I would love to be able to say I have that done!
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