Lol, is it that obvious that I am right. on. the. edge?
Have no clue
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Have no clue
OK so i have no clue whats going on and i need some help every time i turn my running lights on i have no tail light ever other running light works blinkers work break lights work head lights work but my tail lights dont the bulbs are good but have no clue what the problem is.
Postmaster
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From: Pasadena, Ca
Dude slow down and break your thoughts up into sentences with periods and puntuatation because you are all over the place and hard to understand what you are trying to say welcome to FTE this is a good place to fix everything
More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2009
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OK, so I have no clue whats going on and I need some help. Every time I turn my running lights on I have no taillights ever. Other running lights work, blinkers work, brake lights work, headlights work, but my tail lights don't. The bulbs are good but I have no clue what the problem is.
Here you go Dr., I do not want you to morph into Mr. Hyde on this forum
D.
Lead Driver
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Posts: 9,616
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From: San Jose, CA
Do you have a volt-ohm meter Bamty? If so, it's time to break it out and start testing things at the tail light sockets.
How did you verify that the bulbs were good? Try them in another vehicle? Just visual inspection? Sometimes that's not good enough.
Take the bulbs out of the sockets and test for 12v at the socket with the headlight switch on. You know you're getting power to the switch because the other things work, but until you start testing you won't know if the power is getting out to the back lights, or if it is, where it's getting stopped.
It's quite common on old trucks for several things to happen.
1. The tail light socket gets rusty or corroded or even has the contact bent out of the way.
2. Wires get pinched, cut, welded on and burned from the "custom" dual exhaust setup someone put on. This can happen anywhere along the frame.
3. Headlight switch wires get burned and fail. Most often on circuits other than the tail lights, but it can still happen. Old wiring just has weird ways of letting you know it's time to give it some TLC.
Good luck.
Paul
How did you verify that the bulbs were good? Try them in another vehicle? Just visual inspection? Sometimes that's not good enough.
Take the bulbs out of the sockets and test for 12v at the socket with the headlight switch on. You know you're getting power to the switch because the other things work, but until you start testing you won't know if the power is getting out to the back lights, or if it is, where it's getting stopped.
It's quite common on old trucks for several things to happen.
1. The tail light socket gets rusty or corroded or even has the contact bent out of the way.
2. Wires get pinched, cut, welded on and burned from the "custom" dual exhaust setup someone put on. This can happen anywhere along the frame.
3. Headlight switch wires get burned and fail. Most often on circuits other than the tail lights, but it can still happen. Old wiring just has weird ways of letting you know it's time to give it some TLC.
Good luck.
Paul
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Sorry about the lack of punctuation. I've been working on this truck all day and was at my wits end. tried everything I could think of I have done a lot with the motor and the trans just never wiring it was something new. thanks Paul i think ill start with replacing the sockets any way both the lights were rusted in.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
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From: San Jose, CA
Well normally it's better to diagnose than to just replace before knowing for sure, but in this case I think you're right to do it. If the bulbs were rusted in, then there's a pretty good chance the sockets are at least close to being toast.
And at least if that doesn't fix it completely, you needed them anyway.
Which is how I like to look at it anyway.
Good luck. Hopefully that's all it is.
Paul
And at least if that doesn't fix it completely, you needed them anyway.
Which is how I like to look at it anyway.
Good luck. Hopefully that's all it is.
Paul
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 968
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From: Corbett, Oregon
Whenever I trouble shoot a problem I start by fixing all the known associated problems, like replacing the bad sockets and lamps, as you mentioned. Quite often the known problems are the cause of the original problem.
When chasing electrical gremlins, take it slow and methodical, one wire at a time. Be thorough and don't assume anything. Just because it was good
or new, a month ago doesn't mean a thing when you are chasing problems.
As mentioned previously, a VOM is a necessity, along with a good test light and an accurate wiring diagram.
Good luck.
When chasing electrical gremlins, take it slow and methodical, one wire at a time. Be thorough and don't assume anything. Just because it was good
or new, a month ago doesn't mean a thing when you are chasing problems.
As mentioned previously, a VOM is a necessity, along with a good test light and an accurate wiring diagram.
Good luck.
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Sorry about the lack of punctuation. I've been working on this truck all day and was at my wits end. tried everything I could think of I have done a lot with the motor and the trans just never wiring it was something new.
I think I'll start with replacing the sockets, anyway both the lights were rusted in.
I think I'll start with replacing the sockets, anyway both the lights were rusted in.
1973 F100/350; 1974 F100/350 before serial number T80,001:
The park lamps and tail lamps have metal bodies, the lenses are separate parts and thread into the bodies with Philips head screws.
The sockets w/wiring are not replaceable, as they are swaged into the bodies.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1974 F100/350 from serial number T80,001; 1975/79 F100/350:
The park lamps and tail lamps are one piece molded plastic assemblies, the individual sockets are plastic and twist into the bodies.
Serial number is the last 6 digits of the VIN
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