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Hey all,
I'm still trying to put some stuff together on my truck from the PO and right now I'm up to these lines. So can anyone tell me what they are supposed to be connected too?
Hey all,
I'm still trying to put some stuff together on my truck from the PO and right now I'm up to these lines. So can anyone tell me what they are supposed to be connected too?
We would need a shot of what they're connected to. I would start with a shot of where they begin and we'll tell you where they should end up at.
The second photo looks like it's connected to the back of the carb, but hard to tell. First one is a mystery without some more info.
I have some more pics of the lines, if first two are on the passenger side of the truck the last is on the driver's side looking at the back of the carburetor.
Passenger side next to the carburetor Passenger side next to the carburetor Driver's side ba k side of the carburetor
I have rebuilt a few 2150s and I THINK the rear one is just a vacuum port, but you have everything hooked to a vacuum tree so you can put a rubber nipple on it.
First off thanks for the help everyone. Now I have a follow-up question how much should the choke move the flaps in the carburetor. Mine seems to have a ton of slack with very little movement.
First off thanks for the help everyone. Now I have a follow-up question how much should the choke move the flaps in the carburetor. Mine seems to have a ton of slack with very little movement.
Yes, your choke should move the flaps in the carb.
When your vehicle is fully warmed up, the choke should rotate the upper flaps such that they are completely vertical. They do so by the bimetalic spring inside the choke cap/housing.
So the little movement with the large amount of slack is normal?
Can you be more specific? The choke is a combination of systems. Exactly what is it you are describing?
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Automatic choke systems
There were three automatic choke systems used on Motorcraft 2150 carburetors:
Hot-air choke
Hot-air choke with electric assist
Electric choke
Both hot-air choke types use air tubes to get clean air from the back of the air horn (inside the air filter element) and pull it through a coiled heat exchanger tube mounted in the M-block’s intake manifold exhaust crossover passage.
The air picks up heat from the exhaust gas in the manifold crossover, then enters the coke housing where it warms the bimetallic thermostat before being pulled into the carburetor main body. When sufficient heat reaches the bimetallic thermostat, the choke opens.
Both the electric assist and all-electric chokes have an electric spade terminal on the end of the choke housing cap and one or more ceramic heaters inside the cap. The spade terminal is supplied with +12V from the alternator’s stator terminal. Whenever the engine is running, the ceramic heater warms the bimetallic thermostat to open the choke.
To set (or load) the choke, you press the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor before cranking the engine. This allows the choke plate to be closed and the fast-idle cam to be set by the tension in the cold bimetallic thermostat.
Closing the choke plate temporarily enriches the fuel/air mixture to help start the engine in cold weather. Setting the fast-idle cam increases the engine’s idle speed to keep it running and help it warm up more quickly.
As soon as the engine starts, vacuum is supplied to the choke pull-down diaphragm and it opens the choke plate slightly to adjust the fuel/air mixture for warm-up. The amount that the choke pull-down opens the choke plate is one of the adjustment specifications for the carburetor. It is usually documented in rebuild kit instructions.
As the choke bimetallic thermostat warms up, it opens the choke plate and releases the fast idle cam so the engine can return to its normal idle speed when the throttle is cycled.
There are four choke adjustments you must make when you rebuild a Motorcraft 2150 carburetor:
Choke cap position — this sets the degree of enrichment provided by the bimetallic thermostat in the choke housing cap.
Pull-down clearance — the clearance between the choke plate and the inside of the choke tower when the pull-down diaphragm receives a vacuum.
Fast-idle clearance adjusting cam screw — this synchronizes the fast-idle cam position with the choke-closed position of the bimetallic thermostat.
Fast-idle adjustment screw — this sets the idle speed produced by the fast-idle cam.
Specifications for all these choke settings are in either the carb rebuild kit instructions, or on the engine calibration label.
First off thanks for the help everyone. Now I have a follow-up question how much should the choke move the flaps in the carburetor. Mine seems to have a ton of slack with very little movement.
The first dohickey looks like a throttle positioner which may or may not be needed (phillips head screw) . I think it's so when the engine starts to stall under load (like putting it into gear wen it's hot) it gives the engine a bit more gas.
The plugged-off line coming from the base of the carburetor (flat slotted head screw) looks like ported vacuum which would go to your vacuum advance..
The large open unplugged line from the top of the valve cover looks like it is plugged onto a PCV and should be vented somehow into the carb so oil fumes from inside the engine can be burned off - an emission control which helps your engine, so should be hooked up.
All this is guesswork based on my engine and may or may not be accurate.
