Sleeves?
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2014
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Sleeves?
im not sure if anyone has done this but has anyone sleeved a 400 or 351? any idea on what to have the shop do or instructions to give the machinist? or should i not even waste my time with putting sleeves in? 
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 896
Likes: 55
From: Bothell
Got some questions before I could give a decent answer...
Does your block have cracked cylinder walls? What are you trying to gain by sleaving the block? Are you talking 8 sleeves or just 1 or 2? Is the block stock or has it been reworked/modified already?
Does your block have cracked cylinder walls? What are you trying to gain by sleaving the block? Are you talking 8 sleeves or just 1 or 2? Is the block stock or has it been reworked/modified already?
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2014
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the block was rebuilt at 13xxxx miles. it was board out .040 over stock on that rebuild. as far as i can tell none of the cylinders are cracked and im talking about doing all 8. im not sure if it will clean up at .060 over.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 6,104
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From: Southern California
That is really kinda looking too far ahead.......let the machinist do their job, see what they can actually clean up at then make the decision....and there is nothing wrong with sleeving 1 or more cylinders.
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2014
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 896
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From: Bothell
These blocks are fairly easy to come by. I can't believe that sleving all 8 holes would be cost effective compared to finding a used block and boring that out.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
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I'd find another block if it needs more than a sleeve or two. It's not that the sleeves are all that expensive it's all the labor and machine work involved. You would have to completely machine the block after you get them in, align hone, bore and hone, decking. One would be setting that boring bar up a bunch of times as well as decking it off more than once. You should only do 2 cylinders at a time then deck it off if your going for all eight. If you try to put more than two in at once side by side you will have a hell of a time because driving them in distorts the next cylinder in line.
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2014
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I'd find another block if it needs more than a sleeve or two. It's not that the sleeves are all that expensive it's all the labor and machine work involved. You would have to completely machine the block after you get them in, align hone, bore and hone, decking. One would be setting that boring bar up a bunch of times as well as decking it off more than once. You should only do 2 cylinders at a time then deck it off if your going for all eight. If you try to put more than two in at once side by side you will have a hell of a time because driving them in distorts the next cylinder in line.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,924
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There isn't enough cylinder wall material in one to support it. It won't hurt anything to fall through here and there in a cylinder but removing that much material wouldn't work.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: starship enterprise
What I would do if your pistons are good and the CR you want is punch it out, sleeve it and punch it back to +0.040 and use your pistons. that saves buying pistons and then you can go to +0.060 on the next build. I believe a liner will run you $40 or so, so that times 8 is $320. plus machine work. It seems like a waste since these blocks are so easily attained. I have 4 or 5 std. bore blocks. All good biulders, most were free. Not very economically done to spend that kind of money. Now, if your block is line bored and has oiling mods and has clearancing done and has main girdles and other time consuming mods, then yes, try to sleeve.
If this block has been just ran through 3 or 4 builds and has hundreds of thousands of miles then why build it? the lifter bores are worn, the electrolysis is probably negatively effecting it, the sealing surfaced are probably deteriorated, the deck may be compromised, so I would think that for half or less of the cost of sleeves a person should be able to find a way less worn block.
If this block has been just ran through 3 or 4 builds and has hundreds of thousands of miles then why build it? the lifter bores are worn, the electrolysis is probably negatively effecting it, the sealing surfaced are probably deteriorated, the deck may be compromised, so I would think that for half or less of the cost of sleeves a person should be able to find a way less worn block.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
What I would do if your pistons are good and the CR you want is punch it out, sleeve it and punch it back to +0.040 and use your pistons. that saves buying pistons and then you can go to +0.060 on the next build. I believe a liner will run you $40 or so, so that times 8 is $320. plus machine work. It seems like a waste since these blocks are so easily attained. I have 4 or 5 std. bore blocks. All good biulders, most were free. Not very economically done to spend that kind of money. Now, if your block is line bored and has oiling mods and has clearancing done and has main girdles and other time consuming mods, then yes, try to sleeve.
If this block has been just ran through 3 or 4 builds and has hundreds of thousands of miles then why build it? the lifter bores are worn, the electrolysis is probably negatively effecting it, the sealing surfaced are probably deteriorated, the deck may be compromised, so I would think that for half or less of the cost of sleeves a person should be able to find a way less worn block.
If this block has been just ran through 3 or 4 builds and has hundreds of thousands of miles then why build it? the lifter bores are worn, the electrolysis is probably negatively effecting it, the sealing surfaced are probably deteriorated, the deck may be compromised, so I would think that for half or less of the cost of sleeves a person should be able to find a way less worn block.