I believe that with factory filtration, the 6.7l should last 125,000 to 150,000 miles. This extra filtration are for those owners that plan to keep their trucks long beyond these miles to 200,000, 300,000, or more miles. Is this sound thinking?

If you are a 6.7l owner and trade your truck prior to 100,000 miles, outside of possible extended oil changes, you might just be making the truck better for the next owner. Does that seem correct?

bruce

 

Yes & Yes.

A new engine at 200 - 300k + will cost as much as one under 100k - the money will just have to come from the owner's pocket, not the manufacturer. Which helps answer the question as to why OEM doesn't develop filters like these 'if they're so good'? Because parts sales and turnover/trade-in would be reduced.. not a good business plan from their point of view.

I think if a seller handed me UOA reports from day one of the truck's life along with other maintenance records I'd be inclined to buy from him rather than another guy.
On the other hand, nay-sayers might balk at buying a vehicle that had extended oil life regardless of what the lab data indicates.

 

That's the way Filtration Solutions has it set up for the FS2500. It mounts on the outside of the frame just ahead of the DFCM (lift pump) with the fittings and hoses going towards the front of the truck.



The hoses are high quality with a protective poly or plastic wrap on the outside.

 

Yes, there is another port labelled AUX, for pressure gauge or tap for oil sampling.

 

Actually, with factory filtration, and regular maintenance the 6.7 is a very long lived motor, 200k plus. Maybe one or two a bit longer...
What bypass does is keep contaminates down so the oil additives are not used up as quickly, and keeping the small particles out of the oil stream, (say 2-8 micron), keeps wear down as well.
IMO, bypass is especially important if you use a 10w30 oil. For wear to occur, the particle has to be larger than the oil film. The 6.7 will add fuel to the oil because of regen. Ford chose to inject fuel on the exhaust stroke (Cummins and others have a seperate injector for regen) and some inevitably will migrate into the oil, making the oil "thinner" or out of grade toward the end of a change interval. Again, IMO, but I think really important to run a 40 weight oil in the 6.7 unless changing regularly.
Your statement is valid. If you trade before 100k, regular changes will easily get you there. Bypass allows me to have the cleanest oil possible over a change interval, and if I'm traveling, I can get that 2000 or more miles out of the oil without having to change, and have confidence I'm still good.
This is likely my last truck. My 03 6.0 went 120k with zero injector attention. I contribute that to bypass and LubeGard Biotech.

 

Having e-mail challenges this morning so can't get pictures from my phone to my PC. I did want to post something, just after I received my bypass oil filter I received an e-mail from Insane Diesel telling me not to run the hose along the firewall due to the heat. There was really no other good way to run the hose so that sent me on a quest to figure out how I could shield the hose from the heat. I 1st wrapped the hoses in Duck Brand 393154 Rubber Splicing Tape, 3/4-Inch, then put 1.5" Black Split Loom Tubing Wire & Hose Cover over the hose and finished them off with Heatshield Products (204018) 1" ID Hot Rod Sleeve Roll. Heatshield makes all kinds of shielding - https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/. I toyed with the Lava Tube but liked the color of the Hot Rod Sleeve better and figured if my engine compartment went over 1100 degrees I had bigger problems. I'll try to get some pictures of the hoses before I installed them, the filter and then how I routed them. It was quite the challenge getting to that oil sending unit, getting the new fitting on, the sending unit and the hose. Recommend you use something like a Permatex Black Silicone Adhesive Sealant rather than Teflon tape.

 

Chuck,

My hoses are teflon, SS Braid, with additional RDPE coating. Seems to me Insane uses pretty standard blue silicone, correct?

 

No. Difference in wear numbers between my stock 6.7 with 145K on her, and those with bypass filtration, are not that much.

For example, I may have around 20 ppm iron wear for 10K miles, where the bypass filtration guys may have around 16 ppm iron for 10K miles. Not much difference. This is just based on the bypass filtration numbers I've seen, and my own wear numbers.

Bypass certainly helps, but you're drinking too much kool aid IMHO if you think stock will only last 125-150K and bypass will somehow double or triple that. I'm following this thread because considering bypass filtration as an improvement and something fun to do, but only after possible deletion and fuel dilution has been resolved. Certainly has its benefits, but not a miracle worker in my opinion.

 

They do, actually black but your basic hose. 1st picture is what they look like out of the box, 2nd is wrapped in the splicing tape, 3rd is after the wire loom and 4th is after the heat shielding was put on

 

That's my objection with the Insane folks. When I reached out to them for info, I was given crap about running a Racor, that Insane was the best, and that they only used the highest quality components.
I see my spider sense was close.
I mean no insult to you, Chuck, really. But you paid a healthy price for a product you had to modify for your use from the folks that push a better product than anyone else?
I used a teflon inner sleeve, stainless wrapped, and black sleeved AN4 line on my DIY.. More than enough flow, more than enough pressure, 220 degree oil isn't going to do a darn thing to it. I don't get their problem with under hood temp though unless they have you route very close to exhaust or turbo. My return line is long, routes across the front of the engine compartment between the 2 coolant hoses by the radiator.
I will say your hoses look excellent though! Credit to you for making that purse from the sows ear.

 

My filter does mount to the inside of the frame on the passenger's side. Best picture of where it mounts is on the Insane Diesel website. It's tough to get decent pictures laying on your back. I do like where it is mounted though

 

I'd like to see the ISO4406 particle count numbers on both OEM and bypass samples so we could compare apples to apples. Size matters not just count.

 

Sounds like your hoses are the same as mine. Do you remember the actual length of your return hose?
Ditto to Chuck, great job on those hoses.

 

Do you know that truck and owner?

Appreciate the tip of running a 40 weight oil. As this discussion got heated up here, I thought of what the viscosity would be on my factory 10w30 oil at 7k plus miles. That's why I pulled a sample of it this last oil change so I could get it analyzed and see where it's at. When did you start using the LubeGard on your 6.0? I'd like to get your take on it. That's actually pretty amazing on the mileage for that early gen 6.0 with no injector issues from what I've read on them. No personal experience as this is my first diesel. Did you experience stiction problems with your 6.0?

Just for FYI, I recently changed my 6R140 and transfer case fluids at 31,000ish miles. I added LubeGard Platinum to the XL12 fluid for the transfer case and to the Mercon LV for the transmission. First time using it. IMHO, the transmission seems to shift faster and smoother with the LubeGard. There is less lag as we know the factory strategy for the trans is less than optimal. I dropped the pan, changed with a Motorcraft filter, cleaned off factory magnet ring. added two small high temp rare earth magnets to the bottom of the pan and called it day. I plan on doing another fluid drop for trans and fluid change for the transfer case at 60k miles. I figure with the 8 quarts of fresh fluid added to the transmission, I'll freshen up the additive package so hopefully my 6R140 will enjoy a long life.

Filtration Solutions, who makes the FS2500, says that 6.7 owners use these filters also on the 6R140. I want to use mine awhile first before I send for more info to see how guys are integrating them into the transmission fluid circuit.

 

The filter housing itself was mounted today. We had an issue with the OEM filter housing port where the oil pressure sensor mounts.

First, Filtration Solutions sent the wrong size tee. It was too small So the sensor wouldn't fit and wouldn't work.

So I went and bought the proper size tee, 3/4 inch I believe. Great right? No, of course not. The port is too close to the engine block for the tee fitting to have clearance for it be tightened down. The same for the smaller size. Not enough clearance. If everyone would be kind enough to post pics of their setups as to see where we went wrong and figure out what's going on. I'm going to call the company at one point to see what the hell is going on.

Easy peezy here. Housing mounted on drivers side frame in front of DFCM on the other side.

I'm going to assume everyone's oil pressure sensor port is the same as mine but theres not enough clearance from the housing to turn the fitting. I'm I missing something here? I need some help here guys. Thanks.

If anybody can see something we are not, please comment. Thanks.