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Rough idle help

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Old Aug 23, 2017 | 07:56 PM
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Rough idle help

Will give the full story. Truck died last Nov and sat till July as needed a distributor. When we got it going idle was rough but it smoothes out as it warms up. It starts and runs fine for 2-3 seconds then start struggling tach drops almost to 0 then bounces back up to 1000-1200. After 60 secs it idles ok but if I drive it it feels not as powerful. Up hills it struggles a bit and is getting maybe 6-7 miles per gallon. One thing I noticed is when I turn the heat on it goes back to crappy idle like the xtra draw is messing with it. No CEL and no codes I bought the reader and nothing unless Im doing it wrong but seems pretty str8 forward. It's a really clean rust free F250 with a 351 5 speed about 120k so looking to restore it more once running issues are settled. I swapped in a ICV and a TPS as had spare and nothing. If anyone had similar issues with a fix lmk
 
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Old Aug 23, 2017 | 08:10 PM
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Have you ruled out a faulty PIP in the distributor?
 
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Old Aug 26, 2017 | 09:57 PM
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How are you doing with this?
You will need to make some routine checks.
Check your Fuel Pressure & Timing.
Check/Clean your EGR Valve.
Check/Replace the vacuum line to your MAP Sensor.
 
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Old Aug 28, 2017 | 04:56 PM
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the disty and timing is good EGR is holding vac. starting to think it might be an injector but certainly is annoying. Ill check the map sensor
 
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Old Aug 28, 2017 | 05:24 PM
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k think I found it map sensor reading 2.5 volts doesn't move. Hooked a vac tester up to it and with pressure volts still 2.5
 
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Old Aug 28, 2017 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Hey351
k think I found it map sensor reading 2.5 volts doesn't move. Hooked a vac tester up to it and with pressure volts still 2.5
The output is a variable frequency square wave. Measuring with a DVM set to DC voltage will always result in a ~2.5 volt reading since the square wave has a 50% duty cycle. VREF is roughly 5 VDC therefore you are measuring one half of that value.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2017 | 08:17 AM
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Ok thanks I did read that last night so it's probably fine then. Did run codes again and getting 10 and 11 which is good the reader is working just no fault codes.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2017 | 09:03 AM
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There is no Code 10. Some code readers interpret the separator flash between the KOEO test results and Stored Code (CM) display as "Code 10".

I assume you are getting System Pass Code 11 for both the KOEO tests and Stored Code display?
 
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Old Aug 29, 2017 | 10:33 AM
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Yes the book says code 10 means completion of the KOEO self test and not a fault code. Just took it for a drive and has a slight stumble but what is odd is when I put the heater fan on it gets worse and stumbles more. Checked the alternator and battery those are both fine. Maybe a ground somewhere is bad?
 
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Old Aug 29, 2017 | 01:47 PM
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Ok ran the code reader a few more times Im 100% doing it correctly now and getting code 33 for the EGR valve. I also noticed the vacuum line looks like it has a metal bb in it. Its the green line with a black rubber piece on the end. the BBis in the black piece so blocking vac. Can someone look in this line see if that should be there. 5.8 351 1990 F250 Doesn't look right why have a BB in there.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2017 | 03:41 PM
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There should not be a BB in that vacuum line. It is there in an attempt to keep the EGR from opening. Code 33 indicates the EGR valve is never opening.

If the EGR Valve Regulator (EVR) is leaking then it can allow vacuum to the EGR when there is not supposed to be any.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2017 | 06:03 PM
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Pulled it out and code is gone but truck still runs like ****. Need to test fuel pressure so getting a gauge to check that next. EGR seems fine holds vac perfectly and voltage will rise when I add vac to it.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2017 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Hey351
Yes the book says code 10 means completion of the KOEO self test and not a fault code. ?
Edited; That's right.
 

Last edited by vjsimone; Aug 31, 2017 at 12:39 PM. Reason: Correcting Text.
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Old Aug 31, 2017 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Hey351
Pulled it out and code is gone but truck still runs like ****. Need to test fuel pressure so getting a gauge to check that next. EGR seems fine holds vac perfectly and voltage will rise when I add vac to it.
A question to answer is; Does the EGR Valve leak Exhaust Gases into the intake during Idle and Deceleration.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2017 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Hey351
I swapped in a ICV and a TPS as had spare and nothing.
You should check the resistance and voltages sometime for the TPS you swapped in.
 
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