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So. I'm lookin to get a little more power out of my truck. It's a 77 f150 with 400 and C6. I've got an Np435 to put in so the C6 is temporary. I'll put the trans in at the same time I pull the motor to install cam.
Truck has the factory Emissions deleted and a Edlebrock performer intake with an Edlebrock 600 carb.
Truck is a daily driver and I do some occasional towing just geared to 4.10 and running 33" tires (soon 35"). do some but not much hwy driving.
Have been lookin around at different cams and not sure what the best route would be. Seems the 400s were tuned for what was best for emission and not power back in the day. I know these motors had a low compression ratio but the flat too pistons are a little out of my price range. If I can get a little more power and a slight lope, I'll be happy. Was lookin at these three, First one is lookin like the best option but figured I'd get some opinions. Thanks.
I have the K-5200 Cam in my 400 and its a nice piece, much cheaper than a name brand one. It has a pretty nice lope to it at idle, definitely noticeable but not a pro-stocker or anything. From what i gather Summit Cams are made by either Engine Power Components or Camshaft Machine. Make sure you get a 'straight up' timing chain with the cam. Another very good upgrade is a set of headers for a 400, these engines need to breathe well to perform.
Look into Cam Research Corp, they custom cut a camshaft for your application and can even break it in for you. I had them cut one for my 400 I built earlier this year and I couldn't be happier with it.
So. I'm lookin to get a little more power out of my truck. It's a 77 f150 with 400 and C6. I've got an Np435 to put in so the C6 is temporary. I'll put the trans in at the same time I pull the motor to install cam.
Truck has the factory Emissions deleted and a Edlebrock performer intake with an Edlebrock 600 carb.
Truck is a daily driver and I do some occasional towing just geared to 4.10 and running 33" tires (soon 35"). do some but not much hwy driving.
Have been lookin around at different cams and not sure what the best route would be. Seems the 400s were tuned for what was best for emission and not power back in the day. I know these motors had a low compression ratio but the flat too pistons are a little out of my price range. If I can get a little more power and a slight lope, I'll be happy. Was lookin at these three, First one is lookin like the best option but figured I'd get some opinions. Thanks.
Whatever you do, make sure you order the new lifters for the new cam by the same company. Don't mix and match parts (For example: don't order Crane lifters, and a Comp Cam).
I would recommend either a Comp Cam, or a custom grind cam. Custom grinds can get pricey very quickly, but they're worth it in the end if you have your full build details all worked out.
For the 400 motor, you want to stay under 0.450" lift at the valve springs because the stock springs can't take any more lift than that. Above 0.450" lift, you'll bind up the springs and cause some serious damage to the motor. So if you want a new cam, you'll be changing out the lifters, the springs, and the cam itself. And while you're at it, you should change out the stock timing chain if you haven't already. The stock timing chain comes retarded from the factory and has nylon teeth on the cam gear. You want a high quality double roller timing chain to replace that stock P.O.S. timing chain.
Comp Cams sells a kit that comes with everything you need: springs, lifters, cam, and timing chain. See where this is going? $$$ :P lol
Here's a decent cam from Comp Cams. Doesn't have a lot of lope to it at idle, but it's not bad either.
I ran the Comp Cams 268 in mine. Also had headers, Eddy intake and a Carter 625. Loved it. Ran an aftermarket timing set straight up as well. Only problem i had was excessive rocker arm clatter. I solved that by using the Crane screw in stud kit and BBC roller tip rockers. In retrospect, wish I would have ponied up the cash and used different rockers.
Whatever you do, make sure you order the new lifters for the new cam by the same company. Don't mix and match parts (For example: don't order Crane lifters, and a Comp Cam).
Comp cams makes good stuff.
I would recommend either a Comp Cam, or a custom grind cam. Custom grinds can get pricey very quickly, but they're worth it in the end if you have your full build details all worked out.
For the 400 motor, you want to stay under 0.450" lift at the valve springs because the stock springs can't take any more lift than that. Above 0.450" lift, you'll bind up the springs and cause some serious damage to the motor. So if you want a new cam, you'll be changing out the lifters, the springs, and the cam itself. And while you're at it, you should change out the stock timing chain if you haven't already. The stock timing chain comes retarded from the factory and has nylon teeth on the cam gear. You want a high quality double roller timing chain to replace that stock P.O.S. timing chain.
Comp Cams sells a kit that comes with everything you need: springs, lifters, cam, and timing chain. See where this is going? $$$ :P lol
Here's a decent cam from Comp Cams. Doesn't have a lot of lope to it at idle, but it's not bad either.
Alright. Well, new headers to replace the factory manifolds are gonna be on my list. Can I get short headers or would it be worth the trouble to get long headers and rework the exhaust. I can weld so it's not too hard for my too do.
I forgot about that 268h cam. I bookmarked that a while back after watching the video of that truck. Really like the sound of it. My truck has true dual exhaust all the way back with resonators. I think I may roll with that 268h but I'm gonna get the full kit the comes with the cam, lifters, timing chain, and springs.
Alright. Well, new headers to replace the factory manifolds are gonna be on my list. Can I get short headers or would it be worth the trouble to get long headers and rework the exhaust. I can weld so it's not too hard for my too do.
I forgot about that 268h cam. I bookmarked that a while back after watching the video of that truck. Really like the sound of it. My truck has true dual exhaust all the way back with resonators. I think I may roll with that 268h but I'm gonna get the full kit the comes with the cam, lifters, timing chain, and springs.
Long tubes are what make great torque which is what trucks need. Not to mention, they sound awesome.
For long tubes, you may want to consider re-working your exhaust configuration all together.
Long tube fender-well exit headers are the way to go. Fenderwell's are a common choice among 400 and 429/460 owners because it gets rid of a lot of heat near your important components (brake lines, fuel lines, transmission pan, etc), and they clean up your exhaust system really nicely.
Just think of all that room you could have between the frame rails!
Look good but my exhaust has all been redone once and everything fits perfectly. Figured it wouldn't be worth re routing everything outside the frame rails. Haha. Would you know if the timing chain in that kit is or final replacement or does it eliminate the factory retarded cam timing
Look good but my exhaust has all been redone once and everything fits perfectly. Figured it wouldn't be worth re routing everything outside the frame rails. Haha. Would you know if the timing chain in that kit is or final replacement or does it eliminate the factory retarded cam timing
I'm not sure what you're asking specifically.
The new cam and the new timing chain go together, so you have to opportunity to adjust the cam/timing to whatever you want when they get installed. You could install the new stuff with advanced timing at the camshaft, retarded timing like the factory settings, or go with what everyone normally does which is "straight up".
Anywhere in that cam grind range is helpful. I find that with an improved intake and carb, split grinds (more exhaust than intake) are better performers. Another consideration is have the heads milled, this should help keep a good seal as well a help compression. 0.020" cut on the heads is a helpful difference and not expensive, not too much work since intake is off, springs are off, exhaust is off, a small cut on the heads helps. Might even be worth trying 0.025" Mine were 0.20 and no issues with intake at all.
I'm gonna set the cam timing straight up. So I was wondering if the cam gear slot was cut in a position to put the markers where timing is straight up. But I could always just rotate the cam to where it needs to be.
I'll look into getting .20 cut off the heads. I know the motor was rebuilt before so I'll have to check and see what's been machined in the past.
I'll look into getting .20 cut off the heads. I know the motor was rebuilt before so I'll have to check and see what's been machined in the past.
What your gasket thicknesses for the heads. You want to achieve the proper quench with your motor. Mill too much, and you might run into problems. Especially if they've been milled before.
What your gasket thicknesses for the heads. You want to achieve the proper quench with your motor. Mill too much, and you might run into problems. Especially if they've been milled before.
I'm not sure. When I bought the truck it had a rebuilt motor in it. It runs good, I just figured i would go ahead and redo it cause I'm gonna pull the trans out for a manual swap anyways. I've got another spare stock 400 in the garage as well just in case.
I'm not sure. When I bought the truck it had a rebuilt motor in it. It runs good, I just figured i would go ahead and redo it cause I'm gonna pull the trans out for a manual swap anyways. I've got another spare stock 400 in the garage as well just in case.
The shop you're using will be able to tell you if the heads have been milled or need to be milled again. Squaring up the block, then squaring the heads to the squared block is an important process to get all of the rotating assembly in alignment with everything else.
Either way, your shop should be walking you through the process/updating you.
I would stay in close contact with them. From there, they can recommend a new head gasket thickness so that you achieve proper quench tolerances in the combustion chamber.
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