Engine help
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 309
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From: Northern IL
Engine help
Hi guys, 1955 f100 but not stock engine. I was told by the previous owner who did not install engine that it was running when they owned it but the water pump went bad and they never got around to fixing it before parking. I got ahead of myself years ago and pulled it without testing it. Was wanting to get some help to find out if it's any good before I spend money on it. I believe it is a 223? My plan is to redo the gaskets and rebuild the carb so I can drive the truck for now if it is.
Is there anyway I can test or check to see if it is any good? I pulled the valve cover off and it looks fairly clean, turned it over with a wrench and all seems to be free. Does it appear rebuilt due to the blue paint or is this normal? I would do a compression check but I would need to hook up starter and battery correct? Any other help or tests I can do would be appreciated.
Is there anyway I can test or check to see if it is any good? I pulled the valve cover off and it looks fairly clean, turned it over with a wrench and all seems to be free. Does it appear rebuilt due to the blue paint or is this normal? I would do a compression check but I would need to hook up starter and battery correct? Any other help or tests I can do would be appreciated.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 791
Likes: 11
From: Louisville
Paint doesn't mean much, I've seen a lot of guys go crazy with a can of spray paint. It's kinda late to be considering a comp' test, who knows what might have taken up residence inside with the manifolds sitting wide open. If it were mine I'd pull the manifolds and head off, to begin. No use taking a chance of something laying on top of a piston - it may turn over now but once it's spinning... Straight sixes are pretty tough engines, unless someone has beat the snot out of it. After pulling the head, and that much looks good, yank the pan and check the bearings. If all that looks o.k. seal it up and give it a shot.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 3,910
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From: Deerbrook, WI
If you didn't clean your engine when you pulled it, it looks remarkably clean to me. It very well may have been rebuilt before you purchased it. My engine is a 52' and it's green. I'm not sure when 223 cid I6 engines started to be painted blue. The FORD embossed on the valve cover is also not something that is seen on engines from the early 50's. It could be that your engine is from the 1960's. What do the spark plugs look like? Their appearance can be a good indicator of an engine's condition. Good luck.
Jim
Jim
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
1954/59: The 223 valve cover is retained to the head with two studs that poke thru the center (as pictured in post #1) of the valve cover.
1960/64: The 223 valve cover is retained to the head with 8 bolts that are located around its perimeter.
All 1960/65 I-6 & V8 engines were painted black, except the valve covers.
The valve covers were painted specific colors, as this was how FoMoCo identified the myriad different engine sizes.
However, some of the valve covers used on cars are the same color as trucks, but the engine sizes are different.
Example: 1965 black engine with gold valve covers: 289 2V installed in Passenger Cars; 352 2V installed in F100/350's.
And, be aware that some 1961/64 trucks came with 262 I-6. It looks almost identical to the 223 I-6, but it's not the same internally.
1960/64: The 223 valve cover is retained to the head with 8 bolts that are located around its perimeter.
All 1960/65 I-6 & V8 engines were painted black, except the valve covers.
The valve covers were painted specific colors, as this was how FoMoCo identified the myriad different engine sizes.
However, some of the valve covers used on cars are the same color as trucks, but the engine sizes are different.
Example: 1965 black engine with gold valve covers: 289 2V installed in Passenger Cars; 352 2V installed in F100/350's.
And, be aware that some 1961/64 trucks came with 262 I-6. It looks almost identical to the 223 I-6, but it's not the same internally.
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 51
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From: Aberdeen Scotland
most auto part chain stores will rent you a leak down tester. All that will be needed is shop air. Bring each cylinder to TDC and add regulated air. have a listen to the intake manifold, and exhaust manifold. Any hiss herd form the manifold would point out a leaking valve and what cylinder, also have a listen to where the water pump mounts that would be telling of a head gasket issue leaking to the water jacket from that cylinder and lastly put a ear to the oil filler that would give you indication of the health of the rings. Having been stood for a while i would expect a bit of ring leak. test once dry, and then add a table spoon of MMO or engine oil of your choice and spin it over by hand a few times and let it sit and check it a next day, should seal things up nicely.
That should give you a decent snap shot of the health of the engine with out running it and with out trying to wire up the starter, all that is needed is air and a bar to turn the engine over
https://mobiloil.com/en/article/car-...-leakdown-test
from that you should have a fair idea if its worth the expense a new water pump and carb rebuild.
best of luck and let us know how it turns out
That should give you a decent snap shot of the health of the engine with out running it and with out trying to wire up the starter, all that is needed is air and a bar to turn the engine over
https://mobiloil.com/en/article/car-...-leakdown-test
from that you should have a fair idea if its worth the expense a new water pump and carb rebuild.
best of luck and let us know how it turns out
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