Finally got around to replacing the steering gear on my 2009 F250 V10, so I wanted to share a little information on how I accomplished it.

Since purchasing the truck used with about 100000 miles on it, I had noticed a little play in the steering wheel. It was about 1-1.25" when going straight. Driving however was a bit aggravating. To keep the truck going straight required constant overcorrection at the steering wheel. Those who have experienced this will know exactly what I mean. This was bad enough just driving the truck, but when I was towing my TT it became a real nuisance (and sometimes scary).

To be sure there were no other issues I checked the tie rods, drag link, suspension stabilizer bar/joint, wheel hubs/bearings and the ball joints. Everything checked good with no play detected in any of those components.

Doing some more research I ran across information and a video from Cardone indicating that Ford F250 steering gears for my year truck (and others) had experienced premature failures.
Now mine did not appear to have the catastrophic failure indicated, but it did worry me somewhat.

I did attempt the preload adjustment on the gear itself. That made no difference in the play, but did increase the preload, so I returned the adjustment to the original setting. At this point I could only assume the play was internal, possibly in the piston/recircball mechanism.

More research led me to look at the Ford replacement gear, Redhead and the re-engineered Cardone gear. The Ford replacement gear was a re-manufactured one, but would still cost 700-800 dollars. I was a bit skeptical about getting it since the OEM gear apparently had initial issues in manufacture. The Redhead gear had good reviews, but would cost me $550 plus a $300 core charge (which I got back only if they found my gear to be rebuildable). I could get the Cardone unit (no core required) for about $300. I was impressed with how the Cardone gear was re-manufactured with what appeared to be better internals than the OEM Ford gear. I purchased the Cardone gear with hopes of curing the aggravating steering wheel play.

I pondered the replacement for maybe six months before I started. This also allowed me time to get the other new parts I needed.

Those parts included:
1) New pitman arm and nut. I figured this was easier than trying to get the old one off on the day I was replacing the gear, and a new nut is required (stated by Ford).
2) New frame bolts. Cannot reuse the old as stated by Ford.
3) New o-ring seals for the gear pressure line connections.
4) Power steering line filter.
4) 6 quarts of steering fluid.

The special tools I needed to make this job go as smooth as possible:
1) Crowfoot wrenches - the kind you use with a 3/8 inch socket drive - to torque the pressure line connections on the steering gear
2) A heavy duty tie rod type puller to separate the drag link ball joint from the pitman arm
3) The torque extender I made so I could use my 0-250 lbs/ft torque wrench to torque the pitman arm nut
4) Fluid extractor to flush and fill the power steering lines

I do most of the work on my vehicles. I don't pull engines/trans anymore, but will attempt most other work to save money and to know it is done right. Typically having only my wife to help with most projects, I needed a plan to follow suite.

The Cardone gear was impressive looking, but make no mistake, this guy weighs a bunch. So from the start I was concerned about being able to get the old one out and the Cardone in without dropping the beast on myself. I subscribe to two online service information providers so I researched what needed to be done to get this gear replaced.

To get the new pitman arm on the new gear and torqued properly (you cannot do this when it is mounted because there is not enough room to get a socket on the pitman nut), I made a jig to hold the new gear so I could torque the nut to 375 ft.lbs. Yes, that is correct, 375 ft.lbs. I put the new pitman arm on the new gear and torqued it to specs.

After doing all the research on replacement I set aside a full Saturday to get this accomplished. I pulled the front end of the truck onto my home built ramps which raises the front end by about 7 1/2 inches. This would allow me to sit under the front end (sorta) with my arms free to remove and replace the steering gear. I fastened the driver's seat belt to the steering wheel to prevent any movement while I had the steering shaft removed from the gear. I also removed the inner fender well cover to allow me a little better access to the gear pressure lines and the steering shaft bolt.

The Cardone unit required a steering system flush (with filter) before replacing the gear. I accomplished this without help by using my fluid extraction pump and basically vacuuming the fluid from the reservoir, through the gear, fluid lines and the cooler. This allowed me to flush the system without having to worry about overheating the starter or running the reservoir out of fluid and possibly ruining the steering pump. The old fluid still looked very pink, but I flushed about 3 new quarts through the gear and lines, then allowed the reservoir to empty and vacuumed the rest of the fluid out of the system. The reservoir, pump gear and lines were now basically empty of fluid so I could work on removing the gear without having to plug the hoses. I then disconnected the steering shaft and removed the pressure lines from the gear.

Now moving to under the front end, I removed the drag link from the pitman arm and disconnected the steering stabilizer to allow the drag link to move out of the way. I placed a small wedge of wood under the steering gear to help support it while I loosened all three gear frame bolts, then removed two of the bolts completely.

Time to get the wife involved.

Now back under the front end, I had my wife remove the last bolt. I let the gear settle onto the wedge I placed under it, then proceeded to tilt and remove the gear. Again, this thing is heavy, so be careful. Reversing the procedure, I lifted the new gear into its place and sat it on the wedge. I lined it up best I could and with some wiggling allowed my wife to start all three of the bolts. So, worst part is now done.

Continuing the project:
1) Tighten and properly torque the three frame bolts.
2) Replace the o-rings and torque the pressure lines to spec.
3) Connect the steering shaft and torque that bolt.

Before reconnecting the drag link to the pitman arm, I needed to refill the system with fluid and bleed it (typically you would need to raise the front wheels off the ground, but with the pitman still disconnected from the drag link this was not necessary). I filled the entire system by again vacuuming the fluid from the reservoir and through the entire system to the hose connection on the return side of the reservoir. I then reconnected the return line. I lost a little fluid in this last transition, but not much. I then followed the Ford procedure to bleed the system without the engine running. It's a simple procedure by turning the steering wheel lock to lock 10 times and refilling the reservoir as needed. I then started the engine and continued the bleeding procedure by again turning the wheel lock to lock. There was very little air in the system and no pump noise. I checked for leaks and all was good.

I completed the job by:
1) Reconnecting the drag link and steering stabilizer and torqueing them to the proper specs.
2) Replace the inner fender well cover.

Time for a test drive. Needless to say I am ecstatic. I have now been driving it for about a month. There is no play in the steering wheel and driving it is now a pleasure. I have not yet towed my TT with it, but will be on Labor Day weekend. I expect a much better experience.

So in conclusion, I am very happy with the Cardone unit at this time. I am hoping it will perform as spec'd and without issues or play for a long time. The total job took me about 6 hours, but I took my time, followed instructions and torqued all bolts properly. I had never replaced a steering gear before, so obviously a first for me. For those of you who may be contemplating this, it was overall an easy job and I saved hundreds of dollars by doing it myself.

Good luck and thanks for reading,

Tom

 

Not to diminish what you've done, great work! - but ... loose steering is a pretty well-known thing in Ford trucks, and it usually comes down to adjusting the steering box. Not too far on a higher-mileage box, because it'll bind at the ends of travel (where it's not worn as much), but it was something I did to my truck with only 10K miles on it, and it helped immensely.

I've done the same thing on lots of other vehicles, some of them mine, and every time it's a world of difference.

But again, great work!

 

Hi Krewat,

Appreciate the comment.

I did attempt the adjustment, twice. The first time I merely tried turning the adjustment a little at a time and driving after each to see if it made a difference. The only thing that seemed to accomplish was binding the steering more each time.

The second attempt was doing the adjustment according to Ford by disconnecting the pitman arm from the drag link and adjusting the force needed to turn the steering wheel. The best I could tell, it was correct when I first measured it, and adjusting the nut just increased the amount of pull over what Ford said it should be.

Since removing the old gear, I had a chance to test it on the bench. Don't know if this is scientific enough, but I tightened the adjustment screw down till the pitman shaft binded. With that done, there is still a small amount of play on the input shaft. I can only assume the play is in the recirculating ball mechanism.

When I talked with Redhead initially about possibly purchasing their's, it was one of the problems with the OEM units they mentioned.

I am sure that adjustment does fix some boxes. However in my case, it just did not.

Needless to say, I am pleased so far with the Cardone gear. It definitely fixed the issue with my steering, and I look forward to towing my camper without constantly overcorrecting as I drive.

Thanks for a great website and forum.

Tom

 

Great info there - the other thing that could have led to the play is the spool valve - the springs in it will wear over time, and it'll get "soft" - but still activate and way too early for good feedback, leading to that "wandering" you mentioned.

Also, and it probably has NOTHING to do with what you went through, the earlier Superduty trucks (like mine) benefited greatly with a synthetic power steering fluid. When I flushed and replaced mine, the steering took on a whole new feel - much better overall, and much more responsive. Again, nothing to do with your setup, but I have to mention it in case someone else comes along with an older truck and would like to try something without swapping out the entire box.

 

Krewat,

Sorry for the late reply. Got busy with getting things ready for our camping trip.

I had thought about using synthetic when I did the flush, but I could not find any recommendation for using it in mine vs. the recommended Motorcraft fluid, so I stayed the course.

I did want to finish up by saying what a pleasure it was towing my camper with the new gearbox. The Cardone was spot on and worked great. No more white finger tension when steering either on the interstate or back roads.

Only time will tell if this gearbox stands up to Superduty use in the long haul. I sure hope it does.

For now I am very pleased with it and can recommend as replacement for those with 2009 Superduty gearbox issues.

Again, this is a great forum with knowledgeable people and bountiful information.

Thanks for allowing me to be a member.

Tom