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Case: I want more braking power sent to my trailer.
Truck braking is doing well, and I'm almost sure more than it's fair share of the braking. Electronic settings; It seems there is 3 range holders of brake intensity, and upto 10 adjustments within each range holder. I'm in the 3rd (highest that I can find) range holder, and right around 9-10 (the highest in that range) of braking power.
It works, but I'm not really sure I could "lock-it-up" if need be. Just seems like more brake power should be sent to the trailer, and at all times even under low speed braking.
Any other adjustments that I can do or have the dealer do? Thanks!
Case: I want more braking power sent to my trailer.
Truck braking is doing well, and I'm almost sure more than it's fair share of the braking. Electronic settings; It seems there is 3 range holders of brake intensity, and upto 10 adjustments within each range holder. I'm in the 3rd (highest that I can find) range holder, and right around 9-10 (the highest in that range) of braking power.
It works, but I'm not really sure I could "lock-it-up" if need be. Just seems like more brake power should be sent to the trailer, and at all times even under low speed braking.
Any other adjustments that I can do or have the dealer do? Thanks!
I have exactly the same issue, everything is set to the max and I couldn't lock the wheels even on gravel. The entire braking system on the trailer is brand new and adjusted properly and each brake is receiving the proper voltage. When I posted about it here awhile back some said their experience was similar and others said theirs works fine. I really wish someone could come up with a solution.
Gary
I have exactly the same issue, everything is set to the max and I couldn't lock the wheels even on gravel. The entire braking system on the trailer is brand new and adjusted properly and each brake is receiving the proper voltage. When I posted about it here awhile back some said their experience was similar and others said theirs works fine. I really wish someone could come up with a solution.
Gary
Exactly! My coach is a brand new 2018 with the 6 disc brake upgrade. It's not the trailer as I have hooked it up to my (winter rat) 2002 Silverado and the trailer brakes are much more aggressive, and that brake controller is set on the 6 out of 10 setting (just one range mode). It's almost too much as it's jumpy, I'm sure i could lock up the brakes with it, no problems.
[Back to the '17 SD]- So it's in the truck or truck's brake controller more specifically, as in not sending enough power back to the brakes.
Need help on this Ford! Please, it's just not safe!
Is it set up for electric or electric over hydraulic? A good brake controller will not lock up the trailer brakes ahead of the trucks brakes but will keep all brakes working as one unit. Have you tried a panic stop on gravel?
Just a question: Did you select the brake type? I have two trailers, one with electric drum brakes (trailer A) and one with electric/hydraulic discs (trailer B). Mine works fine on both trailers. I do have the output set on high but the trailer gain varies from 3.5 empty to 7.5 loaded heavy. Mine will lock up by squeezing the tabs together. The trailer with the electric drums seems to lock up faster as it seems to take the hydraulic pump a second or two to catch up.
Exactly! My coach is a brand new 2018 with the 6 disc brake upgrade. It's not the trailer as I have hooked it up to my (winter rat) 2002 Silverado and the trailer brakes are much more aggressive, and that brake controller is set on the 6 out of 10 setting (just one range mode). It's almost too much as it's jumpy, I'm sure i could lock up the brakes with it, no problems.
[Back to the '17 SD]- So it's in the truck or truck's brake controller more specifically, as in not sending enough power back to the brakes.
Need help on this Ford! Please, it's just not safe!
I checked the voltage at both plugs in the truck and when you squeeze the controller it puts out full voltage to the brakes. I then ran a wire from the plugs to a voltmeter while I was driving and applying the brakes also put out full voltage. The only thing I didn't check was the amperage at the plug. In my case everything is set correctly on the truck for my trailer. Even squeezing the controller while stopped and then driving away will not cause the brakes to skid on any surface. When I squeeze the controller to max while driving you can feel the truck slowing down but it is very gradual.
Gary
You're right to think something is wrong as those six wheels and brakes should produce enough braking force to stop the trailer and the truck. But how do you know the trailer brakes are working or adjusted correctly? I know your trailer is new but it doesn't mean they are good. The best advice I can give is to get out on a gravel road and squeeze the manual brake on the controller hard and fast and see which wheels are locking. This is how I diagnosed some bad brakes on a previous trailer. It will require a couple of runs past an observer but if you find out that only one out of three wheels on one side is skidding, you have likely have a wiring/setup problem. If none of the wheels skid, you probably have a brake controller problem.
A motor vehicle inspector recently told me that the brake controller reduces braking force at low speeds to prevent wheel lockup while ensuring increased force at higher speeds. Works perfect with my 6,500 lb trailer. No lockup in city traffic and full stopping power at higher speeds. Recently had to do a panic stop at highway speed as someone decided to do a U turn in the middle of the highway. Saved my butt.
A motor vehicle inspector recently told me that the brake controller reduces braking force at low speeds to prevent wheel lockup while ensuring increased force at higher speeds. Works perfect with my 6,500 lb trailer. No lockup in city traffic and full stopping power at higher speeds. Recently had to do a panic stop at highway speed as someone decided to do a U turn in the middle of the highway. Saved my butt.
At low speeds mine is putting out around 12v so I don't think this system takes speed into consideration.
Gary
I have the same issue. I was told the ford plug is not fully compatible with all trailer plugs and I should basically go get an extension cord for the trailer so the trailer plug will not be wired directly to the truck.
I bought an extension but haven't tried it yet, I'm getting the trailer out tomorrow and will give it a shot, I'll let you know
Since both of these trailers have fairly new brakes, my question would be whether the shoes/pads have been properly burnished. I had the same issue with my 2012 until I took the trailer out & performed the brake burnishing procedure that Dexter Axle prescribes. Now when you squeeze the paddles, it will lock all 4 tires on asphalt.
I pulled my friends enclosed car trailer, loaded I had it around 6.5 -7, after dropping the car, I forgot to to turn it down and hit the brakes rather hard the trailer brakes locked right up so mine seems to work fine so far
I have the same issue. I was told the ford plug is not fully compatible with all trailer plugs and I should basically go get an extension cord for the trailer so the trailer plug will not be wired directly to the truck.
I bought an extension but haven't tried it yet, I'm getting the trailer out tomorrow and will give it a shot, I'll let you know
Okay, this one has me scratching my head. What's special about the extension?
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