She's a howler
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She's a howler
I just finished doing bellowed up-pipes, new KC stage 2 turbo and a new 4" exhaust, made the truck quiet, and no more leaky up-pipes, turbo is amazing. anyway I get everything finished last week and take her for a drive and when I turn right I get this vibration and hum. I took it to a parking lot and locked in hubs and threw her in 4 high to see what'd happen, yup she jerked like normal for 4 wheel drive on pavement, when i took it out of 4 high the hubs didn't release, had to unlock them to get her to stop acting like she is in 4 high. any thoughts as to what is causing the vibration and hum? wheel bearing? hubs going out? I can't seem to figure this out and it's driving me nuts.
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I checked u-joints. Jacked truck up and everything was tight. Drive shaft seemed ok. Need to replace slip joint in it. It had some play. It only vibrates and makes the hum when I make a right turn.
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Actually the exhaust is touching a trans cross member bolt. I didn't think it would cause the vibration since it went away when I turned left.
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
I really believe the KC stage 2 turbo is your problem. You need a modified OEM turbo, which I just happen to have. I will do you a favor since you are an FTE friend, I will trade you straight up and even pay for shipping both ways...
Just kidding of course, the exhaust has to be just right when installed otherwise you will get what you are experiencing. I had a lot of trouble getting the downpipe set up properly, but since then it has been great.
Just kidding of course, the exhaust has to be just right when installed otherwise you will get what you are experiencing. I had a lot of trouble getting the downpipe set up properly, but since then it has been great.
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Here is my next question, what size injector can I get away with before I need to stud heads? I have 280k on the clock also. Need to be tow friendly up to 13k. I'm sick of my little brother and his dodge throwing a grappling hook out while he passes me on the hills and dragging me too. All while he laughs.
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
Without going into too much detail, I believe the general rule of thumb is 40 lbs of boost is max without new/better head studs.
FTE is a big fan of 160/80 injectors, but some prefer hybrids like 238/80. It is all up to you and how you want to spend your money.
What year of Dodge is he driving?
FTE is a big fan of 160/80 injectors, but some prefer hybrids like 238/80. It is all up to you and how you want to spend your money.
What year of Dodge is he driving?
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With new turbo and up-pipes, I'm hitting 28-30lbs @ WOT. I was thinking 180/80 from full force. Just trying to get some thoughts on it. I've got a donor in the garage, saving up so I can do it all at once.
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From: N.GA Mountains
Sous correct about most folks recommending studs above 40psi of boost. Of course, this is kind of a relative number and assumes CP's and boost are linear. A big charger will move more air at lower psi, so '40psi' could be too much.
That said, you should be fine with 160/80's and your turbo - without headstuds.
After installing a few sets of 238/80's now, I'm a believer in 'small' hybrids. This injector does everything the 160/80 does - only better. No need to make the ~500hp the 238/80 is capable of. If your hottest tune only makes 400hp, the 238/80's won't hurt your modded turbo and should not 'need' headstuds.
And until he he buys hard parts for that cumming(s), he will be trying to catch you on those long grades.
That said, you should be fine with 160/80's and your turbo - without headstuds.
After installing a few sets of 238/80's now, I'm a believer in 'small' hybrids. This injector does everything the 160/80 does - only better. No need to make the ~500hp the 238/80 is capable of. If your hottest tune only makes 400hp, the 238/80's won't hurt your modded turbo and should not 'need' headstuds.
And until he he buys hard parts for that cumming(s), he will be trying to catch you on those long grades.