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Help with understanding a failed coolant test

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Old Aug 20, 2017 | 07:00 PM
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Help with understanding a failed coolant test

Hi everybody. I have a 2015 F-250 Superduty, 6.7 Powerstroke with 40, 625 miles on it. I have never tested the coolant before since dealer told me not to worry about it until 100,000 miles, but due to the wealth of info here on FTE contradicting that info, I ordered test kit #328-ACUEL4048 from Acustrip. I followed directions to the letter. These are my test results:
Nitrates= 0
Freeze point= -60 or 60%
Reserve Alkalinity (RA)= brownish orange which is low
Contamination test= Fail
I don't know if this means I need to add VC-12 or is this indicating a flush and fill? The instructions with the kit says "Fail - coolant is contaminated and inhibitor could be at an unsafe level, the coolant should be serviced."
Hard to believe a coolant change would be needed at under 50,000 miles. On a side note, the coolant samples looked clean, transparent and a nice orange-pink color. Any advice is greatly appreciated and hopefully will keep me in my wife's good graces since she winces every time I buy oil and filters!
 
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Old Aug 20, 2017 | 07:46 PM
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you can recharge it up to two times before a complete flush is required.


But if it is contaminated then I would change it out.


You can dump it, run some distilled through it, dump and then put in some new coolant.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2017 | 10:55 PM
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Sooo, a failed contamination test is more than just low corrosion inhibitor. Not real good news. How does coolant become contaminated when no one has opened the system since the fill at the factory? I guess that's anyone's guess.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2017 | 03:13 AM
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Personally I changed mine every year due to the high demanding use I require of my trucks. I don't even waste time with the test if the truck spent 52 weeks pulling maximum loads and plowing snow all winter every fall I change the fluid you can do it yourself and save a fortune most times I let the dealer do it for under $250 for both systems. However I realize some dealers are charging above $400 how they come up with this I'll never understand. Now if you didn't work your truck hard at all and just used it as a weekend toy hauler I certainly wouldn't worry about changing it just add the recharge and move on. However since you're reporting that you failed the contamination test I would definitely flush it you must be working your truck hard . Contamination can occur from simple breaking down of the fluid itself along with the internal components of the engine and of course the leftover traces of production sand from the Block molds. Not such a problem in the 6.7 but back in the day the 6.0 would have an inline filter to control oil cross contamination from the injection system not the diesel fuel the actual oil and the hydraulic injectors LOL don't ask me how I know got real expensive one time learn to put a filter system on that engine, however I don't think that's required for the 6.7 take care
 
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Old Aug 21, 2017 | 04:54 AM
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Do a search for coolant test. I posted the Ford Service DVD coolant test that shows what you need to test.

Did you test both coolant systems? Per Ford, you can only add the VC-12 twice and you need to find out how much to add to each system if required.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2017 | 10:09 AM
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This truck is not worked hard at all. In fact it hardly breaks a sweat. It sees a daily 40 mile round trip commute on country roads and summer tows a 6500lb boat, and winter a toy hauler under 10,000lb. I was not able to test for contaminates on the secondary system since I ordered the one time use kit, and when I sampled the secondary coolant, I dropped the test strip on the dirty garage floor rendering it useless. I hope I did all the test right, like previously stated, this coolant is still the factory fill, nobody has touched it but it tested at -60 on the freeze point, which I thought was a little strong for a so cal desert.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2017 | 11:05 AM
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Add the VC 12 48oz to the primary and 12 oz to the secondary. ( You will need to buy two bottles they come in 32oz bottles)

As stated you can do this twice during the coolants life.

As long as your Nitrates = 0 you don't need to flush and refill
 
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Old Aug 21, 2017 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Painted Horse
Add the VC 12 48oz to the primary and 12 oz to the secondary. ( You will need to buy two bottles they come in 32oz bottles)

As stated you can do this twice during the coolants life.

As long as your Nitrates = 0 you don't need to flush and refill
. Thank you for your info, and also your response to my pm! I spoke to a tech at acustrip and he said that a drain and refill is an option, however adding vc12 should solve my issue. Picking up a couple of bottles from the dealer today. They sounded surprised and asked why I thought I needed it at such low mileage??!! It simply amazes me how many people (public and dealerships) are misinformed on the proper care of these trucks. I cringe every time I pass one of those quick oil change places and see a king ranch diesel super duty waiting in line. Thanks for all the responses.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2017 | 05:39 PM
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That all sounds good except the -60 that's not good especially warm climates that's something you'd expect in Alaska or Anchorage I have a dealer check that for you you're not properly protecting the motor at warmer temperatures that's almost a sixty-forty split solution I did that a few years back when working in Canada and those were the average temperatures 25 Below on the hot days LOL. On a serious note though this could be why it's failing it got way too warm for it and the fluid is going bad get it checked
 
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Old Aug 21, 2017 | 10:32 PM
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I thought so too, but these are filled from the factory at 50/50 and this truck hasn't had the cooling system touched before. I did add a little a while ago but used a prediluted mix picked up from the dealer. Might pick up a refractometer (which is what Ford says to use) to be sure.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2017 | 11:26 PM
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Seems hard to believe that your coolant is contaminated at 40,000 miles..... I'd run the test again before I dumped it.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2017 | 09:08 PM
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Subscribed as my "check coolant additive" light came on at 13,230 miles and I'm at almost 13,700. Ordered the #4048 kit at acustrip.com last night and will post up what happens.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2017 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Overkill2
Subscribed as my "check coolant additive" light came on at 13,230 miles and I'm at almost 13,700. Ordered the #4048 kit at acustrip.com last night and will post up what happens.
Per the tech I spoke with at acustrip, a failed contamination test simply means the coolant needs to be revitalized with some VC12. I doubt with your low mileage you will fail any of the test. A word of caution, on my 2015, the radiator pea***** were tough to turn, used a little force with pliers but just be careful since they are plastic.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2017 | 05:11 AM
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just get your sample from the degas bottle. It is a close system so it all circulates and gets used.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2017 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by senix
just get your sample from the degas bottle. It is a close system so it all circulates and gets used.
Originally Posted by Boaterguy
Per the tech I spoke with at acustrip, a failed contamination test simply means the coolant needs to be revitalized with some VC12. I doubt with your low mileage you will fail any of the test. A word of caution, on my 2015, the radiator pea***** were tough to turn, used a little force with pliers but just be careful since they are plastic.


Appreciate the input guys. I plan on using the bottles, thanks senix...The 4048 kit came in yesterday. I haven't read through the directions yet, but as a newbie to this, I only use one strip out of the set...correct?
 
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