I gambled and maybe I
#46
It looks almost like the flex plate was too shallow, allowing the front of the torque converter to hit the crank bolts. If there was damage, it would be inside the front of the TC.
The last time I installed a torque converter, it had 4 distinct engagement steps on the intake shaft (4 speed OD). When it was fully seated, its slop would just scrape the bell housing, but once it's bolted to the flex plate, it would line up properly.
I'll also note that I was able to use just my fingers to join the transmission (on rolling jack) to the engine; there should be no excessive force required. If there were excessive resistance, something is not lined up correctly, and forcing it will damage parts.
The last time I installed a torque converter, it had 4 distinct engagement steps on the intake shaft (4 speed OD). When it was fully seated, its slop would just scrape the bell housing, but once it's bolted to the flex plate, it would line up properly.
I'll also note that I was able to use just my fingers to join the transmission (on rolling jack) to the engine; there should be no excessive force required. If there were excessive resistance, something is not lined up correctly, and forcing it will damage parts.
#49
I’ll try to stay on track with this and state here what I would like this truck to be engine wise.
i want to keep the the stock EFI it’s working good as far as I can tell.
would like to get 20 mpg I have the AOD with 3.4 rear end.
want a roller cam that works with the stock firing order.
around 200+hp and idle smoothly.
I don’t want headers at this time have stock manifold into 2 1/4 exhaust.
so i ideas on a cam ?
i want to keep the the stock EFI it’s working good as far as I can tell.
would like to get 20 mpg I have the AOD with 3.4 rear end.
want a roller cam that works with the stock firing order.
around 200+hp and idle smoothly.
I don’t want headers at this time have stock manifold into 2 1/4 exhaust.
so i ideas on a cam ?
#51
have you got a part # for that cam and stock or after market?
#52
I cant believe no one has mentioned, but your power goal and whole lot more is going to be cheap and easy to get to. Go grab heads off a 97-01 explorer / mountaineer, and intake manifold off a 96-98? ex / mountaineer. The earlier one is a little bit better, mostly just a better designed casting with thicker ears. The heads alone are 30-40hp over the E7TE's you have on there, intake is another 10-15 probably. The truck cam is pretty decent, but would benefit from 1.7 roller rockers, or you can just get something like a TFS stage 1 cam. With the RR or cam and that top end, you should be close to 275rwhp. I picked up my GT40p heads for $62 at the junkyard. The caveat to the P heads is you will need to buy springs, but you can find cheap ones here, im going to run them on my P heads, lots of fox guys use them.
#55
The holes for the spider are 1/4-20. Comp cams has instructions on how to prepare the block:
Drill a 13/64" hole exactly 3/8" deep.
Use a 1/4-20 taper tap to start cutting the threads into the hole
Then use a 1/4-20 bottoming tap to complete the threads
They also tell you to cover the oil drain holes to prevent drilling debris from falling in. But since you're going to clean out the block anyway, that may not matter as much.
They sell a spider and retainer kit for the roller blocks that did not come prepped for rollers CCA-31-1001. You can probably find these parts in your local junkyard,
Drill a 13/64" hole exactly 3/8" deep.
Use a 1/4-20 taper tap to start cutting the threads into the hole
Then use a 1/4-20 bottoming tap to complete the threads
They also tell you to cover the oil drain holes to prevent drilling debris from falling in. But since you're going to clean out the block anyway, that may not matter as much.
They sell a spider and retainer kit for the roller blocks that did not come prepped for rollers CCA-31-1001. You can probably find these parts in your local junkyard,
#56
The holes for the spider are 1/4-20. Comp cams has instructions on how to prepare the block:
Drill a 13/64" hole exactly 3/8" deep.
Use a 1/4-20 taper tap to start cutting the threads into the hole
Then use a 1/4-20 bottoming tap to complete the threads
They also tell you to cover the oil drain holes to prevent drilling debris from falling in. But since you're going to clean out the block anyway, that may not matter as much.
They sell a spider and retainer kit for the roller blocks that did not come prepped for rollers CCA-31-1001. You can probably find these parts in your local junkyard,
Drill a 13/64" hole exactly 3/8" deep.
Use a 1/4-20 taper tap to start cutting the threads into the hole
Then use a 1/4-20 bottoming tap to complete the threads
They also tell you to cover the oil drain holes to prevent drilling debris from falling in. But since you're going to clean out the block anyway, that may not matter as much.
They sell a spider and retainer kit for the roller blocks that did not come prepped for rollers CCA-31-1001. You can probably find these parts in your local junkyard,
#57
#58
I cant believe no one has mentioned, but your power goal and whole lot more is going to be cheap and easy to get to. Go grab heads off a 97-01 explorer / mountaineer, and intake manifold off a 96-98? ex / mountaineer. The earlier one is a little bit better, mostly just a better designed casting with thicker ears. The heads alone are 30-40hp over the E7TE's you have on there, intake is another 10-15 probably. The truck cam is pretty decent, but would benefit from 1.7 roller rockers, or you can just get something like a TFS stage 1 cam. With the RR or cam and that top end, you should be close to 275rwhp. I picked up my GT40p heads for $62 at the junkyard. The caveat to the P heads is you will need to buy springs, but you can find cheap ones here, im going to run them on my P heads, lots of fox guys use them.
#59
the donor was a 89 E250 5.0 EFI thing is I don’t believe that the flex plate was changed the engine is original I did not own it so I could be wrong. The transmission was overhauled/replaced I have a receipt dated 07’
have you got a part # for that cam and stock or after market?