89 f250 starting issue
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89 f250 starting issue
About 2 weeks ago I developed a starting issue. First start of the day starts right up, then after warm it turns into slow cranking and eventually turns over but a few times I've had to let it sit for 10 mins or so. Recently I was trying to get it started when warm and the ground wire melted at the battery terminal. I replaced the cheap clamp style connector to terminal and I'm back to slow cranking with occassional smoke from the ground wire at the terminal. I ordered a new ground cable to be picked up tomorrow, this proved hard to track down because it has a strap for the frame about halfway down and then continues to where the starter is. Am I on the right track here? Or am I overlooking something? Thanks.
Tim
1989 F250
300 six
zf-5 tranny
4wd
170k miles
Tim
1989 F250
300 six
zf-5 tranny
4wd
170k miles
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
There is a lot of current drawn, instantly, when the starter is energized. Maybe 200 amps. Everything has to be clean and tight. Cables are getting up there in age.
It could be a bum starter itself though. When they start to go, they draw even more current. Basically a dead short. Symptoms "sound" like it but loose, missing, or corroded grounds and connections will also result in smoking cables. They sort of go hand in hand though.
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It could be a bum starter itself though. When they start to go, they draw even more current. Basically a dead short. Symptoms "sound" like it but loose, missing, or corroded grounds and connections will also result in smoking cables. They sort of go hand in hand though.
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ower-loss.html
Could be a low battery, what is the voltage between the terminals?
Likely a bad, CORRODED ground, check and clean all connections
Could be a low battery, what is the voltage between the terminals?
Likely a bad, CORRODED ground, check and clean all connections
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Thanks for the replies. Sounds like I should start with the ground cable tomorrow. If that doesn't do it to move on to starter. Have not had battery checked, will do that tmrw as well. Educate me if I'm wrong, but would a low battery cause the smoke? And surely the battery would have died by now with all the cranking. Like I said it'll still turn over it's just slow cranking when warm.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Heat or smoked cables is loose, missing or corroded ground connections, or a bum starter. Or maybe a siezed engine I suppose. Since the problem is worse when hot I'd lean towards the starter. You may end up smoking the new cable.
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New ground cable did not work, still slow cranking, still turns over eventually. Picking up a starter in the morning and will give that a whirl. While I was at it, I check all the grounds I could find, loosened, cleaned and snugged tight. Still no difference.
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Well I drove to NAPA to get my battery tested today. Lost power/stalled twice on the way there. Got there and battery tested 13.6 non running. Now it won't turn over. Awesome! I am not convinced on the starter because of the loss of power....
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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Well again smoking cables means loose, missing, corroded. Or a bum starter, which is more or less a dead short.
Now that means a bum starter draws a lot of current, and will smoke a battery while yer at it. See where I'm goin' with that? Normally an engine will start with the flick of a key. So it never loses hardly any current, and is in turn immediately easily recharged by the alternator.
Small defects in the battery or cables can have a cumulative affect on the charging system too. A defective battery (from a bum starter...) can smoke the alternator and voltage regulator, and the opposite is also true. So when replacing alternator, test the battery to be sure it's not defective etc etc. And vice versa. Fun stuff eh?
Always use a charger to get the battery up to 100% when running into trouble. Alternators don't work for this and can easily be damaged. A jump start is just to get home in an emergency, to the battery charger.
Now that means a bum starter draws a lot of current, and will smoke a battery while yer at it. See where I'm goin' with that? Normally an engine will start with the flick of a key. So it never loses hardly any current, and is in turn immediately easily recharged by the alternator.
Small defects in the battery or cables can have a cumulative affect on the charging system too. A defective battery (from a bum starter...) can smoke the alternator and voltage regulator, and the opposite is also true. So when replacing alternator, test the battery to be sure it's not defective etc etc. And vice versa. Fun stuff eh?
Always use a charger to get the battery up to 100% when running into trouble. Alternators don't work for this and can easily be damaged. A jump start is just to get home in an emergency, to the battery charger.
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The battery tested at 13.6 when not running. I believe that is close to if not a full charge. I replaced the cable - it's not smoking anymore. So in the line of things that means starter, but that doesn't explain the stalling. Stalling has only occurred a few times and both at idle and at speed, not right after start up which I believe rules the alternator out as well, correct? I'm now leaning to electrical - a relay, maybe eec? starter relay checked out fine.....thanks
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When it lost power and stalled, did it restart on it's own or did you pull start it?