My truck - early 2000 CC short bed, 300K miles

Background on my problem: I had a short list of long overdue maintenance and updates to do that time and money kept me from tackling. Found a little of both so I replaced the water pump, HPOP lines, re O-ringed the HPOP/IPR, deleted the AIH, replaced all of the brake lines in the engine bay, put new fuel lines to the filter bowl. All of this took me about 2 weeks so the truck sat with the batteries out for that long.

After buttoning it all up, it fired right up, a little slower than normal but figured that was air in the fuel lines, HPOP, etc. The only issue I had was the battery light stayed on. Thinking I had an alternator issue, I checked it and it was getting about 14.25v so figured that was good. I used it regularly for about 3 weeks, the light stayed on, and noticed some surging during warm up and some low rpm hesitation.

Then it stop dead on me driving down the road. Turns out it was all my doing, I had torqued the bolts on the water pump pulley but didn't use Locktite. The bolts backed out, shredded the belt, and ended up yanking the CPS wire harness out of the sensor. So that made total sense.

Fast forward another week, got new wiring pigtail and CPS (never replaced it before now) from a couple of the good FTE vendors. I am not sure about the wiring on the pigtail, my truck has a green, blue and brown/gray wires, the wiring diagram I found online showed green, blue and gray. I wired it connecting the brown/gray where the gray line goes (center contact) and closed everything up.

Another thing to mention is that I have an Edge Juice with Attitude that has been on the truck since '06. I lost that connector in the process and they were absolutely no help in trying to get me running again. Wouldn't or couldn't tell me which wire they connect to so I used the green wire which is the CPS signal wire to the ECM. Once I am running again, going to get rid of the Edge.

So that is where I am now. No start, I've been reading some of the "what to do" posts, the most likely is that I don't see the tach bounce when trying to start. So I want to check the wiring to make sure I have good connections to the CPS.

So I don't have any diagnostic software to read codes, etc. Would that help me with any of this? I really need to fix this myself and only have one set of hands most of the time. Not really sure what the problem was before it stopped running and now I can't diagnose the surging and hesitating.

This forum has been a great resource to help keep my truck on the road, hoping I can keep it going until it rusts off the frame. This is the first time in the 18 years I have owned this truck that it hasn't run.

Any and all ideas to get this thing going are appreciated, if it is time to get Forscan, guess I will bite the bullet.

 

I got the Bluetooth obd2 port for forescan. You can get it overnight on Amazon. As you already know, they're are a ton of geniuses on this forum that can help you if you have the info and codes.

 

I do not know the Edge Juice product. I have never heard of connecting a chip to the CPS wiring, but it sounds like that isn't correct and is possibly causing your no start problem (bad CPS signal to ECM)

Hopefully someone familiar with the Edge products will chime in and tell you where to connect it?

Good news is, it sounds "simple" to restore the CPS wiring to stock and then figure out where to connect the Juice or eliminate it- if that is your eventual goal.

 

Thanks for the replies, just ordered the OBDII cable, that should be here tomorrow.

The Edge isn't really a chip, its a boost fooler and modifies the signals coming from all of the sensors. They really just wanted me to buy a $400 upgrade not fix my existing problem. Oh well.

The biggest update is that I put the key in it for the first time in a week today and no dash lights at all, no ignition, nothing. So I may have a bigger issue than I was thinking. Don't know if ForScan can even read anything in this condition.

Any inputs appreciated.

 

I think the CPS pigtail is wired incorrectly, see diagram attached. Looks like green should be center post.

Can you read the voltage at the batteries? Hopefully they just discharged.

Also installation manual for Edge, not sure if you have exact item.

 

Not that I'm gods gift to the almighty 7.3, but I'm with the Stu above. Think, if wiring got chewed, its possible it got sperated/elongated in the process.. May need to bust out the ohm box and tease them probes up

 

I'd suggest you call Power Hungry Performance and describe the situation to them. Bill will know how your Edge is hooked up and can help you clear that mess up. He can also sell you a better chip after it's up and running so you don't have any down time after the edge.

 

I think the CPS pigtail is wired incorrectly, see diagram attached. Looks like green should be center post.


Wow, that is totally a different wiring diagram with the correct color coding, thanks for that! I will re solder everything, bet it will work.

Can you read the voltage at the batteries? Hopefully they just discharged.

I do have full voltage on the batteries, they have been on a charger for a week. Reading about 13.2V now.

I'd suggest you call Power Hungry Performance and describe the situation to them.

Thanks for the tip here as well, it would be great to talk with someone who knows the Edge wiring.

Hope to get all of this done today, I'll let you know how I make out.

 

OK, here is my update, still in a no start situation. I have disconnected all of the Edge programmer connections and put the truck back to stock.

I think the CPS is now wired correctly, thanks for the help with that. I tested the lines from the CPS back to the PCM, all buzzed out. The vehicle cranks well, batteries are in good shape.

I got ForScan and was able to run codes. So there are 2 with the PCM, P1280 and P0113.

For the 1280, the ICP says it failed. I just re-Oringed the HPOP but did not replace the ICP unit. Would this fail catastrophically after running well up to this point? This is my smoking gun right now, I just don't want to buy a new one unless it is really the problem. It is the original unit with 17 years and 300K on it.

For the 0113, I removed the IAT sender, will that keep the truck from running?

As always, thanks in advance for the help.

 

did you try starting it with icp sensor unplugged? with icp unplugged the pcm will send a default value , IF the icp sensor is the issue it WILL start with it unplugged. are you using the forscan to look at live values or just read codes? what is ipr% and icp pressure?

 

Have you tried a new CPS since you corrected the wiring?
You may have damaged something with the bad wiring.

 

Deleted the AIH.

Read the post and didn't see mention of fuses and relays.

After doing the wiring I would revisit both at knees and under hood.

Unplug the fuel bowl heater just to rule that out completely.

Sounds like it could be as simple as that.

Do you have power to your OBD port and cigarette lighter ports?

Denny

 

BTW,

Check batt voltage on both before trying to start and while cranking. When your truck shut down were the batteries dead (voltage).

Usually the batt light means your discharging or discharged. That could be the wiring fiasco. Even if your wiring is correct now, you may have damaged the charging circuit and can't push the inital juice 10.5 I believe to get it to start.

Reaching.\

 

Can you monitor rpm's battery voltage, ICP psi, and IPR duty % while cranking?

Quick short cut, does the tach bounce while cranking? If not, start with the CPS, but based on the codes, I'd think low ICP pressure which points to sensor or wiring issues. (chaffed or brittle wires are common on both the ICP and IPR)

 

So I can now report that I got the truck to start. Clay at RiffRaff sent me a pic of a 2000 PSD CPS connector which confirmed I had it wired correctly.

So I then disconnected all of the Edge programmer harness, tried again and it started after a bit of cranking. The tach bounced for the first time since trying all of this, guess the wiring is hopefully all good.

Drove around the neighborhood a few times and the battery light is on and won't go off. Showing 14.6v when I test it running. Don't know if that is too high?

My guess is that I fried the Edge programmer and that must have kept it from starting after putting in the new CPS. Still worried since I had an IPR code but I will now run the codes with ForScan and KOER to see what codes I get.

Thanks for all of the suggestions on what to look for, now have to get back to where I trust all is good. The battery light is the only dashboard issue I see now.