When I turn the ignition key to the on postion, all the warning lights start flashing and the Injector Driver Power Module relay starts clicking like crazy. When I go to the start position the starter solenoid just clicks rapidly. Battery has full charge and cable connections are clean. Anybody heard of this problem?

 

How old are your batteries? They should show around 12.5 volts when not running. You can have one strong and one weak. If both are good , then it could be the starter. Or the solenoid could be malfunctioning. If the bat's are O.K. and the solenoid is ok the starter Should turnover even IF the engine doesn't start. Have you checked both bat's voltage ...Without them being connected...???The solenoid is on the left(right) side of the fenderwell with the hood open and the glowplug relay is under the cover that protects your fuel filter ......sk

 

The same thing Happened to my X a few days ago. I went to Autozone and they told me that one battery was good and the other was bad. No matter how many times you jump the battery, it won't maintain the charge for long unless you have the vehicle running. Long story short, you have to get two new batteries. You probably won't have to pay for them at all, seeing as the batteries should have a 3 year/unlimited mileage warranty. Just get it started, take it to a ford dealership, and they should do the rest. When you get a boost, make sure that you use 2 sets of Heavy Duty or Commercial jumper cables (one for each battery), otherwise it will take a very long time to start. If you can, get another Powerstroke, Cummins, or Duramax to give you a boost. If you have to boost from a gasser, make sure its ATLEAST a 1/2 ton truck or SUV like an Expedition or suburban. A 3/4 or 1 ton truck would be better though. I think that the driver side battery is the primary battery (if such a thing exists) so if you jump from a gasser, use the driver side battery. If the dealership charges you for the batteries, it shouldn't be more than $200. This is all based on personal trials and experiences, so I hope this all helps.

 

Something I failed to mention was that if your batteries are more than 2 to 3 years old, you should replace them anyhow.

 

Sorry for not responding sooner, I had checked out the batteries, both were OK although at low end of spec., so I replacd them anyway. The instrument panel warning light still continued to flash when key was turned to on and still got the rapid clicking when went to start. I picked up a multimeter tester and a repair manual that had all the electrical diagrams and started checking voltages to the relays. Found voltage to all of them intermitant causing them to cycle continuosly. traced the problem back to a diode that goes to the pcm power relay. Replaced the diode and problem went away. What was happening was the pcm power relay was suppling intermitant power to the powere train control module which in turn sulplies control power to all the relays in the system. A $4.85 diode was cause of problem.

 

Very nice work!