My 2001 7.3 lost power the other day on a hot day, 101 I think, here in Eastern Washington and I have been reading and replacing things and it is still can hardly get out of its tracks. It has 235,000 miles on it and has served me and my family well.

It feels like when I lost the wiring harness under the valve covers but I ohm'd the injector circuits from the IDM connector and they all tested good, right around 3.5 ohms each.

I have replaced the valve cover harnesses earlier this year also replacing the harness side of the connector.

I have been reading the forum and started replacing things, each time thinking it had to be the issue. I started with the IDM, then the ICP, followed be the IPR and because it was old I even replaced the CPS.

When I was threading in the new IPR I noticed that about an inch and a half of the insulation was missing from the wires of the IPR connector. I was happy because I thought I had found my problem, but after replacing it and all of the other parts it still runs the same, bad.

The sensors or Ford, hard to pay those high prices, and the IDM is aftermarket. I am pretty sure there are a handful of small things that can contribute to bad performance but this happened so quickly while I was driving and we barely made the last 1/4 mile to home.

New parts this week;
IDM
ICP
IPR
IPR pigtail, soldered in with heat shrink
CPS
New parts this year;
Valve cover wiring harnesses
New loom side connectors soldered in with double heat shrink
New Ford glow plugs on left bank

I can only read codes with a Super Tuner I bought 14 years ago, it has been tuned to tow safe since.

Current codes;
1280, ICP injector control signal circuit out of range low
1316, IDM codes present
0475, exhaust back pressure sensor low input
683, glow plug CM to PCM comms
670, glow plug CM circuit fault

These codes read after I replaced the components as mentioned about, then I cleared the codes and drove it down the street and back.

So I am not sure where to go next, been reading and watching videos, kind of lost in all the info. Was thinking that maybe a new hpop just because it would be another piece in the puzzle but I am in $100s this far and am hoping to stop the hemeraging.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, I see there is tons of posts but none seam to fit my exact situation. I am thinking that maybe I should come up with my own "buzz" test by applying a few ice cold units of brown bottle elixir.

 

Do you have have AE or know someone in your area that can actually see what's going on with your truck? Throwing parts gets expensive quick! The one thing I can tell you for sure is I've never had good luck with NON OEM sensors. The 1 or 2 I've tried didn't last a week! OEM is more expensive up front but they last and you know they work... I'm sure someone with more experience will stop in, this is my 2 cents. Good luck.

 

Thanks for the input Colarado350. I do not know anyone that would be able to help me, but I am asking around.

What is an AE?

I regret buying the aftermarket IDM, dad decision on a weekend, but all the rest are OEM.

 

Usually, the HPOP fails suddenly but the branch lines can leak. An AE (autoenginuity) is a more expensive type of reader but then you get to do more with it. There are cheaper readers out there but they don't do as much.

 

Did you check to see if the EBV is all the way open? An easy inspection and fix if that's the problem. There is a few guys in washington that mitt help you out. Just have to look them up. They need to hook up AE and drive it to see what's going on. Just lack of power or missing, what?

 

You cleared the codes and drove it, what are the codes now?

 

You will have to order a Bluetooth obd connector but you can get an app called Torque Pro. That way you can monitor your high pressure oil while you're driving. Pretty cheap but tells you most of the basics.

 

I have replaced the EBV and cleared the he tube some time ago, it did not affect performance when that code was present then. I will pull that and check the tube again.

The codes I posted are after I cleared it and drove it for a short trip down the block. Was running so bad I was afraid to go any farther.

It moves but has a hard time getting up my driveway, has slight incline. It knocks at times like it dieseling if that makes sense. I have to push it out of garage when I start it or it overwhelms it with smoke. This came on suddenly, it was running great before.

Thanks for the input.

 

IIRC, the code for HPOP is 1211, mine failed very quickly.

Have you noticed a drop in MPG?

 

[QUOTE=work4it;
I can only read codes with a Super Tuner I bought 14 years ago, it has been tuned to tow safe since.

Current codes;
1280, ICP injector control signal circuit out of range low
1316, IDM codes present
0475, exhaust back pressure sensor low input
683, glow plug CM to PCM comms
670, glow plug CM circuit fault

These codes read after I replaced the components as mentioned about, then I cleared the codes and drove it down the street and back.

My apologizes, this is what I read as above ...

 

Me day, it barely runs so I have only driven it a couple of blocks. This problem started a couple blocks from my house fortunately.

I wish I had a code for the hpop, I could replace and get on with my life.

 

How is your fuel pressure?

 

I do not know what the fuel pressure is

 

I don't think that you understood the question. There is an exhaust back pressure valve (EBPV) on the turbo, and exhaust back pressure sensor (EBP sensor) mounted on the front of the engine with tube connecting to passenger's side exhaust manifold. Bonanza35 is asking if you have checked the EBPV on the turbo. not the sensor and tube up front. It closes and obstructs exhaust flow to assist in warming the engine in cold weather and when it is activated it yields the symptoms that you are having. If it is malfunctioning and closing you will get some dangerously hot exhaust gas temps (EGT's). Do you have an EGT gauge by any chance?

Also, are you blowing black smoke out the exhaust pipe?

 

Walleye hunter you are right, I did not understand the question. I do not have an EGT gauge. I will look up how to check it.

Walleye fishing near SE Wa?