This is a repost as I accidently posted it in the incorrect forum ...

I have read many posts and watched many videos to try to fix my no start issue. The story to date:

Truck ran but was leaking oil (HPOP gasket) and just started to have some tough starts where a cloud of white smoke would be generated while cranking and eventually it would kick in. This happened about 50% of the time and that mixed with the oil leak it was time to put the work truck into maintenance (I work for myself, so I am also the maintenance department).

Changed the HPOP gasket and went to start it. Now it cranks, no smoke, no start.

After testing, I started changing parts. I've changed the IPR, the CPS the oil pressure switch the glow plug relay (this tested bad - no connectivity).

I should note that my friend who was helping me put the wires on backwards on the glow plug relay and after fixing to proper position (dual wires towards cab), the GPR still did not show any voltage with key on, so I bought a new one. The new one hums and the old one clicked. I verified that it shows voltage on the 2 wire within 2 minutes of turning on the key. The new one has a hum to it, the old one clicked, the new one shows voltage. I forget what it was, but it was lower than the volts from the batteries. I compared this to my neighbor's trucks voltage and basically got the same % difference (a few volts lower). His truck runs I should note!

I swapped out my IDM with my neighbors. Tried his in my truck. No start, no smoke. I tried mine in his truck, started right up.

I checked the diode, swapped it out with a spare, checked all the fuses in the truck with an ohm tester.

I cleaned out the little fuel screen and changed the fuel filter.

I have fuel in the bowl. I have batteries hooked up to a charger so that voltage is 12.6v.

The crank position sensor (I think that it what is called) - it is down below towards the bottom of the belt - swapped it out with a spare. Still no start.

While I know that it has nothing to do with the no start, well at least I think - I looked at my back pressure sensor and tube which were completely clogged. Cleaned out sensor, am waiting for new tube to arrive (figured it was only $12, so why not start new since there are so many new sensors on this! I also bought a new sensor.

I'm at my wits end (and also near the end of my credit limit for parts ....

I am now waiting for a friend to arrive with his android phone so I can plug in the OBD2 bluetooth reader to use Torque to read cranking pressures (fuel and oil) to see if these fall within acceptable ranges.

We did test to see if oil would shoot out while cranking. I was on the key side, my neighbor was on the engine side. Given he has owned this truck (I bought mine from him) for 20 years I know his confirmation that there was oil pressure.

I'm at a point that the original project of swapping out the gasket on the HPOP is going to be undone and redone to check to see if my friend messed up any of the connections. I did check to make sure that the hoses from the fuel filter were going to the same spots as my neighbor's truck - which they do.

Any help/guidance would be most helpful. I was happy to eliminate the IDM as being the problem as that would have set me back more $ and produced the same results to date - nothing.

I know most of the no start posts I've scoured through are older so I really hope that all you helpful people are still using this board!!!!

HELP!

 

You have gone about fixing your 7.3 PS all wrong, like so many have before, and you started touching things before having a scanner.

you need to post your findings from scanner. Icp, rpm while cranking, ipr demand, etc. In the meantime, pull the harness off 9th the Icp sensor to see if there's oil in it.

 

Great advice as I have spent the day trying to get torque app to work! All I get is the RPMs.

To answer the question - I do not think that the ICP plug had oil on it... already replaced the ICP, but you do raise a good point - is the plug any good?

Is there a way to test it (the torque app we can not get working). Redneck test?!

Thanks.

 

What are the cranking rpm? I don't like those apps for the issues you're having, but....they're free. Keep trying, if you can't get it to work then buy a scanner or find someone who has one.

 

The bluetooth scanners are near free but you do have to buy the software if you want the Ford codes - its cheap and a blue tooth adapter. Both the professional scanners and these use the same data from the computer so in theory it should have worked.

My purpose of the scanner was to validate fuel and oil pressure from the HPOP. Seeing as the origination of the no start was the replacement of the Hpop gasket I suspect that most ....

Before I go undo what my friend did (was change the gasket and put back in the HPOP), I wanted to ask - about that process. I will research it but thinking that I started this thread and you know the right procedure to follow for diagnosing is there anything special about removing the HPOP? I recall reading about a check valve, but I don't think he took anything off besides the neccessary hoses, the nut on the crank (and its cover) and the two retaining bolts. Could it be put back in wrong?

I took off one of the high pressure hoses to the valve cover and had a friend crank it to see if oil shot out.... it didn't so I am pretty sure that the HPOP is not working either because of an incorrect reinstall or the HPOP doesn't work for some reason.

Is this type of test proof that the hpop doesn't work? Not sure but it seems to make sense.

Thanks.

 

This would seem to indicate that your problem is a bad IDM. Am I missing something?

 

Read it again, he swapped his idm into his neighbors truck and it ran.

 

OP, did you get rpm, icp?

 

I'm pretty sure everything is pointing to the HPOP because I unhooked one of the high pressure hoses to the head to see if oil squirts out - it didn't. I am now looking to see if that little check valve steel ball is in place (a third bolt was removed by friend who removed pump - but pretty sure it was just the visible plug).

Looking on Youtube and I did find this interesting test ...
Would love to run that test on this to see if one direction of the pump blows air out the high pressure lines or if air is blowing out all holes or what (that is a bit of a puzzle to see what I can muster up to figure out how to seal and try like in the video).

I am now searching for how to verify that the steel check ball is in the non-serviceable port ...

THink I will try this ...

 

The only way to make sure that ball is in the right place is to take off the non-serviceable plug. Did you rebuild your HPOP with the kit from Diesel O-rings?

Not sure how I missed that.

 

OK - I was at the point of buying the o-rings and had the HPOP apart and could not see the ball.... a bit of brake clean pop... it fell into the box I had waiting for it. So I figured that all the parts were in the HPOP that were supposed to be so it is either the pump failed or that the crank was not getting cranked.....

In the directions of the "rebuild kit" they had a big bold letters that seating the crank properly or something or other ... and mix that with another video on Youtube that "make sure that the crank was seated properly", I felt it was worth reinstalling the HPOP to see if I made sure that the crank was seated properly it would put out oil from the high pressure hose. In doing so, and that I've gotten pretty good and removing fuel, HPOP connecting everything ... why not just hook everything up and try. If it doesn't start ... then I can always take the high pressure hose off and see if oil squirted out ....

Well I forgot to mention that when I hand cranked the HPOP on the bench - it squirted more oil out than when I had the high pressure hose disconnected.....

So - the crank wasn't seated properly (my friend is officially disallowed from working on my truck!).

Started right up.

Didn't buy the rebuild kit - if it leaks again, it will only take me an 1 1/2 hours to take out, add in new o-rings, etc.

Yaay!

Thanks for help and the signs all pointed to something stupid and basic - especially because it ran before.

Now I hope that the hard starts with big puffs of white smoke were related to the leaking HPOP gasket .....

or one of the parts that I replaced!