Timing issues with my 1976 302 engine
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Elder User
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From: York Pa.
Timing issues with my 1976 302 engine
So my neighbor and I changed my intake manifold and carb. to a new Edelbrock intake with rebuilt Holley 4 barrel 600 cfm carb. We have been working on dialing it all in by adjusting the distributor that we had to remove to put on the new intake. So we have it running ok, but not great. Here is the thing that has us puzzled, the recommended timing range for this engine is suppose to be between (8 and 14 BTDC) from what I read. My neighbor says the truck wants to run best over 30 BTDC. So something is definitely wrong. My neighbor pulled the #1 plug and we bumped the motor to find the TDC, does it matter if the TDC is off of the exhaust or compression stroke? We don't have a owners manual, is there a good informative thread on this. Is it possible the harmonic balancer moved?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 968
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From: Corbett, Oregon
Yes, it does matter whether you use TDC compression or exhaust.
All timing specs are taken off #1 TDC compression. The spark plug fires on the compression stroke, not the exhaust.
Make sure you have properly identified #1 cylinder. On Ford V8's #1 is the front cylinder on the passenger side of the engine.
A wise investment for you would be the purchase of a shop manual, or other DIY manual, for your truck. I personally don't care for the Chilton and Haynes manuals and would opt for an original Ford / Helm manual. They are available on CD from many different vendors.
All timing specs are taken off #1 TDC compression. The spark plug fires on the compression stroke, not the exhaust.
Make sure you have properly identified #1 cylinder. On Ford V8's #1 is the front cylinder on the passenger side of the engine.
A wise investment for you would be the purchase of a shop manual, or other DIY manual, for your truck. I personally don't care for the Chilton and Haynes manuals and would opt for an original Ford / Helm manual. They are available on CD from many different vendors.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Taxachusetts
In addition to what Roger Carter has stated -good stuff by the way - make sure the distributor's vacuum advance can is connected to the "timed" or "ported" nipple on the carb. The vacuum advance connected to manifold vacuum would give you those high timing readings.
Set/verify #1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke and then peek at the numbers on the balancer. You should read "0".....or very close to it. If so, the balancer hasn't slipped and/or the rubber is still good.
Set/verify #1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke and then peek at the numbers on the balancer. You should read "0".....or very close to it. If so, the balancer hasn't slipped and/or the rubber is still good.
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2015
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From: York Pa.
Thank you Roger Carter for the info. and advice. I thought that was right about using the compression stroke to find TDC. My neighbor is a good mechanic but was wrong on this. I will dig deeper to find out the proper way to set timing. Thanks again.
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 664
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From: York Pa.
In addition to what Roger Carter has stated -good stuff by the way - make sure the distributor's vacuum advance can is connected to the "timed" or "ported" nipple on the carb. The vacuum advance connected to manifold vacuum would give you those high timing readings.
Set/verify #1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke and then peek at the numbers on the balancer. You should read "0".....or very close to it. If so, the balancer hasn't slipped and/or the rubber is still good.
Set/verify #1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke and then peek at the numbers on the balancer. You should read "0".....or very close to it. If so, the balancer hasn't slipped and/or the rubber is still good.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Taxachusetts
The Holley 4V....(model 4160, list - 1850-xx...,yes?) has the timed/ported vacuum nipple on the right side (passenger side) of the metering block about halfway up. Your current vacuum advance is connected to manifold vacuum....hence the timing atrocity.
Compression stroke test: Pull #1 plug...have a helper crank the engine over (CW) by hand - a 15/16" half inch drive socket and breaker bar is optimum - whilst you have a finger plugging the plug hole. When you get near compression on #1 TDC, yer finner should be blown out of the hole....or at least, you'll hear a "puh-cheee" sound - like airbrakes - on the compression stroke. You won't hear/feel anything much on the exhaust stroke @ TDC.
Compression stroke test: Pull #1 plug...have a helper crank the engine over (CW) by hand - a 15/16" half inch drive socket and breaker bar is optimum - whilst you have a finger plugging the plug hole. When you get near compression on #1 TDC, yer finner should be blown out of the hole....or at least, you'll hear a "puh-cheee" sound - like airbrakes - on the compression stroke. You won't hear/feel anything much on the exhaust stroke @ TDC.
Elder User
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I always thought you wanted to time the engine with the vacuum advance disconnected from the distributor. Is that not correct?
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2015
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From: York Pa.
The Holley 4V....(model 4160, list - 1850-xx...,yes?) has the timed/ported vacuum nipple on the right side (passenger side) of the metering block about halfway up. Your current vacuum advance is connected to manifold vacuum....hence the timing atrocity.
Compression stroke test: Pull #1 plug...have a helper crank the engine over (CW) by hand - a 15/16" half inch drive socket and breaker bar is optimum - whilst you have a finger plugging the plug hole. When you get near compression on #1 TDC, yer finner should be blown out of the hole....or at least, you'll hear a "puh-cheee" sound - like airbrakes - on the compression stroke. You won't hear/feel anything much on the exhaust stroke @ TDC.
Compression stroke test: Pull #1 plug...have a helper crank the engine over (CW) by hand - a 15/16" half inch drive socket and breaker bar is optimum - whilst you have a finger plugging the plug hole. When you get near compression on #1 TDC, yer finner should be blown out of the hole....or at least, you'll hear a "puh-cheee" sound - like airbrakes - on the compression stroke. You won't hear/feel anything much on the exhaust stroke @ TDC.
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Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Jun 2015
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From: York Pa.
We did unhook it from the distributor when we were trying to check timing.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Taxachusetts
On yer carb...the info you want should be stamped on the choke horn.....not so sure if the model/list numbers I gave you are correct for your carb, but (as a general rule) any time you have a vacuum line hooked up below the venturi, you have manifold vacuum........
And, yes, any vacuum line to the distributor should be unhooked/plugged when checking/setting the timing.
Enjoy the videos...
And, yes, any vacuum line to the distributor should be unhooked/plugged when checking/setting the timing.
Enjoy the videos...
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