See if this helps:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post17296026

 

If it isn't coming on until 220F, it's sort of like handing out condoms in the maternity ward .... Hahaha

Went ahead and pulled the trigger on a Hayden for 83.ish with shipping, RockAuto...

I've seen EOT in the 220+, and ECT in <210... Last time, it took a while fur the ECT to subside to the 195ish

 

What temp thermostat are you running? 195F is what I run, OEM.

 

I put a Duracrap in long time ago. Then, I think, at same time is when I did my coolant bypass along with the water pump. It was then I realized, at any given time/day, I could run the truck for <10min and this is after letting it warm up... The dash needle never moves, and analog gauge is buried at 100* for awhile..not towing..etc, I never see more than 165*....i got an oem/195 on the shelf

 

Just throwing it out there... When I ran wvo, I T'd into coolant line that feeds the heater core. My temp sensor for it, was located in the wvo box. Now, that temp I'd see 240*. I put a Duda diesel solenoid in, to stop coolant flow or my wvo would boil, lol

 

The only greater satisfaction than being able to fix your own stuff is being able to make your own tools, even crude ones!

 

Absolutely... Got a few seadoo tools that I fabbed up from either seeing factory tool or just thinking it up..

here's a few ECT from different times running, this past 2hrs..mind you, tuck had a 10min warmup 15min of city driving
45min city driving, ready to merge int freeway
180*, 1hr freeway driving, no traffic about 70mph

 

Received the fan clutch yesterday. Without giving it much thought and examining the situation, is it possible to remove the 4-bolts securing fan to clutch, remove old clutch, then install fan over new clutch, spin new clutch on, secure fan to new clutch then finally, hit clutch nut with chisel? Or, do I need to remove the shroud?

 

Not sure if you can get the fan out without removing the shroud. If you try, use a piece of cardboard or something to protect the radiator though.

 

As I recall, removing the shroud is the way to go, which also gives more room to work. Not sure the fan + clutch can fit out without removing it.

The top radiator holder bracket is quick and simple to remove if you want, too.

But...if you do remove the radiator bracket, BE CAREFUL that the radiator doesn't fall into the fan. Brace it or have someone hold it. Easier than it sounds when I write it

I recommend gloves when working near any of the aluminum cooler fins, which are quick to release the arterial fluids

It's not a bad job, really.

If you are doing any prying, holding, or anything with the 4 bolts, make sure you have enough threads turned in to hold securely. If they are too short, you can remove and replace with longer JUST TO HOLD the tool. Be sure to replace with the correct bolts when reinstalling for balance purposes

 

The spirit has yet to move me outside to start/look at the options..ive done 4-WP replacements, so procedure I have down. What I was wondering if, I can remove the fan bolts, slide fan back against the WP, then spin off the clutch. Then, while balancing the fan, install new clutch, and finally reinstall securing fan bolts...

 

Well, I only give the answers I know, regardless of the question you ask LOL

I've never tried it that way, I seems like there might be room. But that would be a lot of moving things around with interference. I'd be extra careful not to damage a blade, the radiator, whatever.

But hey, if it can be done, let us know

 

Haha..good one. But your right, one slip and out goes a blade. Besides, I forgot I want to install the OEM tstat I have. So, might as well make as much room as possible..
Curious, the original clutch, how does that work? Is it fluid filled? If so, can it be replaced and with what type fluid?

 

On the 7.3L the clutch fans are sealed with the fluid inside. It's a simple bolt on and go. Only one way to put it on. Mate it with the fan and then insert as a single piece. That way you can hold the fan blades and such out on the bench and use extra care

While it is all apart, you may want to consider some other maintenance and checks.

1. Have you replaced your rad hoses lately? Good time to do it.

2. Removing the radiator is extremely simple. Remove the top bracket after the hoses all off and pull it up out. The reservoir can be cleaned and inspected, too. Be sure to use a 15/16" (maybe this size?) wrench to hold the fittings in the radiator when you disconnect the trans cooler lines.

3. Check your boots and clamps at the CAC, you'll have lots of room

4. Do you have the 6.0 cooler? If so, inspect it for debris, clamps rubbing, hose rubs, etc. My first install had the reducers between the radiator and cooler, which rubbed a hole in my radiator. I used new pieces of hose and moved the reducers next to the original hard lines on the passenger side of the motor. Easier for flush next time, too

5. Any debris or whatever can be removed.

6. How is your belt tensioner? If it's on your maintenance list, it's easy access now.

7. Many of us replace the top radiator hose with the one for the dual alternators, which doesn't go THROUGH the belt so doesn't have to be removed to change the belt. I zip tied mine to the existing half-bracket.

8. New T-stat housing. I used stock, it is thin metal. The billet version is nice but around half a c-note.

9. Before you pull your old water pump, might be a nice time to degrease the front with simple green, brush, water, etc if it needs it. Entirely up to you.

These are just some things that are easier with good access and stuff pulled out of the way. They don't HAVE to be done or even done now if you don't want that big of a job

Take some pics

 

Well, it did not take long at all.

DO NOT BUY DORMAN.

I will be replacing it again in the morning. Yep, less than 2,000 miles and the fan is wobbly, squealing, and vibrating. Felt something odd yesterday. Squeal started today. Luckily I was almost home when I pulled over and grabbed a very hot fan and found the issue.

OEM FORD as much as it hurts the wallet. The original one lasted 290+k miles.