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Battery Gauge Wiring

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Old Aug 8, 2017 | 07:50 PM
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Battery Gauge Wiring

When it comes to electricity I'm pretty ignorant so can someone explain to me how the battery gauge works? As I interpret the wiring diagram that came with my new wiring harness, the wire is not attached to the gauge but just passes through the metal loops on the back of the gauge on it's way to the circuit breakers. Is that right?
 
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Old Aug 8, 2017 | 08:05 PM
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Its hard to answer without seeing the wiring diagram you are seeing.
Are you using factory or aftermarket gauges?
6v or 12v?
 
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Old Aug 8, 2017 | 08:13 PM
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The original amp meters on these trucks used an inductive system. Current flow thru the wire thru the loop on the rear of the meter causes the meter to deflect relative to the direction and strength of the flow.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2017 | 08:29 PM
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Yes, the wire is just fed through the loop on the back of the gauge. The wire must enter the loop as indicated by your wirig diagram otherwise the guage will not function properly.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2017 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 19mustang65
Its hard to answer without seeing the wiring diagram you are seeing.
Are you using factory or aftermarket gauges?
6v or 12v?
I'm trying to keep things original - factory gauges and 6 volt.

Here's the diagram:

 
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Old Aug 9, 2017 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by raytasch
The original amp meters on these trucks used an inductive system. Current flow thru the wire thru the loop on the rear of the meter causes the meter to deflect relative to the direction and strength of the flow.
Ray,

Thanks for the explanation. Per DW, I'll have to check and see if I put it through in the right direction.

Dan
 
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Old Aug 9, 2017 | 06:54 PM
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Safety Tip
Since the original meter was an AMP meter this is not the safest meter to use.
Please read the Tech Tip on page 116 of the Ron Francis Wiring Catalog about NOT using an amp meter.

Link to the catalog is here:
https://www.ronfrancis.com/images/2017_RFW_Catalog.pdf

You do not want that much current running through your dash panel.

Be safe out there.

Philip
 
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by AZAV8
Safety Tip
Since the original meter was an AMP meter this is not the safest meter to use.
Please read the Tech Tip on page 116 of the Ron Francis Wiring Catalog about NOT using an amp meter.

Link to the catalog is here:
https://www.ronfrancis.com/images/2017_RFW_Catalog.pdf

You do not want that much current running through your dash panel.

Be safe out there.

Philip
He's running the original 6 volt system - didn't go 12V, didn't go alternator. His amp meter isn't any more dangerous than as it left the factory in 1949. With all due respect to Ron Francis and his very capable staff - this particular tech note is vague at best.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ct50f1
I'm trying to keep things original - factory gauges and 6 volt.

Here's the diagram:

Looks like you bought the same harness that I did. I believe somewhere on that chart you will see the manufacture (USA Made), you can give them a call, I did, and they will answer any questions. Great company.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ddiaz12
Looks like you bought the same harness that I did. I believe somewhere on that chart you will see the manufacture (USA Made), you can give them a call, I did, and they will answer any questions. Great company.





Temporarily wiring it up to fire up the engine. I used a Multimeter to ensure no ends were hot.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by AZAV8
Safety Tip
Since the original meter was an AMP meter this is not the safest meter to use.
Please read the Tech Tip on page 116 of the Ron Francis Wiring Catalog about NOT using an amp meter. Be safe out there. Philip
Philip, Thanks for bringing this issue to our attention. As DW has pointed out, this sounds like it's more of an issue for those who have upgraded their electrical system to 12 volts and are running an alternator. I think I'm going to risk it and stay with the original setup. Dan
 
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by ddiaz12
Looks like you bought the same harness that I did. I believe somewhere on that chart you will see the manufacture (USA Made), you can give them a call, I did, and they will answer any questions. Great company.
I agree, it seems to be a pretty good product, especially for someone like me who doesn't really know what he's doing. So far it's been easy to follow the diagram and everything seems to be falling into place without any problems.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 07:26 PM
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Where did you get the harness from. I am looking for one for my 52. Thanks!
 
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Seaview1
Where did you get the harness from. I am looking for one for my 52. Thanks!
I bought it from Mac's. It's on page 46 of the current catalog. Make sure you get on their email list so you're notified of this weeks discount. It was 20% the day I bought it but it changes from week to week.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2017 | 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by AZAV8
Safety Tip
Since the original meter was an AMP meter this is not the safest meter to use.
Please read the Tech Tip on page 116 of the Ron Francis Wiring Catalog about NOT using an amp meter.

Link to the catalog is here:
https://www.ronfrancis.com/images/2017_RFW_Catalog.pdf

You do not want that much current running through your dash panel.

Be safe out there.

Philip
Originally Posted by FortyNiner
He's running the original 6 volt system - didn't go 12V, didn't go alternator. His amp meter isn't any more dangerous than it left the factory in 1949. With all due respect to Ron Francis and his very capable staff - this particulare tech note is vague at best.
There is a big difference between the inductive ammeters used on our trucks (48 - 52) and the shunt-type ammeters that have power running thru the ammeter. I would never run a shunt-type for many reasons, which I believe is what Ron Francis is trying to say (it is very confusing). Inductive ammeters are 100% safe.
 
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