Are wheel adapters safe?
#1
Are wheel adapters safe?
I'm looking to purchase some wheels off Craigslist for my 68 f100. They're so cheap I almost have to do it but I'd need adapters to mount them.
The ones I've got my eye on are 1.25" thick with 9/16" studs
Will these be safe for daily driving? It's not a lifted truck with big tires and it's mostly going to be used just as a driver, just wanted to know if they're safe for my application thanks
The ones I've got my eye on are 1.25" thick with 9/16" studs
Will these be safe for daily driving? It's not a lifted truck with big tires and it's mostly going to be used just as a driver, just wanted to know if they're safe for my application thanks
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If you had it, all you would have to do (aside from relocate the spring perches/lower shock mounts) would be to have the front rotor bearing hubs O.D. machined down and have the holes drilled to re-index the wheel studs to a 5 x 4.5" lug pattern.
This would greatly open up the amount and styles of wheel choices you could run and you wouldn't need wheel adapters to bolt the wheels onto the truck. --this is pretty much what I'll eventually do and to one up it, I'll convert the rear end from drums to rear discs. That'll give me nice wheels and power 4-wheel disc brakes to boot.
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I've used them once an don't like them. If you buy some make sure you have a socket that fits into the lug nut hole first before any attempt to installing them.
You'll most likely have use a thin wall 13/16 spark plug socket to tighten them.
If, was to use them again, I'd use type of lock tight on the threads.
Orich
You'll most likely have use a thin wall 13/16 spark plug socket to tighten them.
If, was to use them again, I'd use type of lock tight on the threads.
Orich
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#12
Living around the Dallas area, I bet there's an '80-'83 F100 at a wrecking yard around there with a Bullnose 9-inch rear end that has the factory 5 x 4.5" lug pattern you could rob from a donor truck.
If you had it, all you would have to do (aside from relocate the spring perches/lower shock mounts) would be to have the front rotor bearing hubs O.D. machined down and have the holes drilled to re-index the wheel studs to a 5 x 4.5" lug pattern.
This would greatly open up the amount and styles of wheel choices you could run and you wouldn't need wheel adapters to bolt the wheels onto the truck. --this is pretty much what I'll eventually do and to one up it, I'll convert the rear end from drums to rear discs. That'll give me nice wheels and power 4-wheel disc brakes to boot.
If you had it, all you would have to do (aside from relocate the spring perches/lower shock mounts) would be to have the front rotor bearing hubs O.D. machined down and have the holes drilled to re-index the wheel studs to a 5 x 4.5" lug pattern.
This would greatly open up the amount and styles of wheel choices you could run and you wouldn't need wheel adapters to bolt the wheels onto the truck. --this is pretty much what I'll eventually do and to one up it, I'll convert the rear end from drums to rear discs. That'll give me nice wheels and power 4-wheel disc brakes to boot.
You could likely change the later model front rotors to 4 1/2" bolt circle, but the factory drums will not go that small. I tried it 25 yrs ago. My '69 has 5 x 5 bolt pattern because the size of the bearings and the hub casting would not allow me to get to 4 1/2" safely.
I still have to cut the inside area of the aluminum wheel to clear the big radius on the '69 hub. The car hub is much smaller.
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With the use of high-quality Wheel spacers, and the correct installation, there is no problem, I installed the bonoss Wheel spacers, use more than 10W km, still very OK. www.bonoss.com
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Only thing I can add to this, is pull the wheels after a bit and check the adapter torque.
I can personally say that I had a wheel adapter failure on my F-100, but I'll also say that it wasn't the adapter's fault. I installed 2" adapter spacers on the rear of my F-100 4x4 because I wanted the rear track width to more closely match the front. I did buy a set off of amazon, didn't buy the cheapest I could find, searched around for a set that had a lot of good reviews from people after driving on them for a while. In installed them per directions. Directions and my own concience said to pull the wheels after 50-100 miles and recheck the torque. I never did. Lug nuts holding adapter to axle backed off and studs failed from the abuse. When I recovered the wheel and tire they were in perfect shape and the adapter was still attached with the broken studs and backed off lug nuts still retained between it and the wheel. Obviously the adapter wasn't reusable because of the damage that the bolt holes received from bashing against the studs, but it wasn't cracked or anything like that. Rather than getting new spacers I just decided to run without until I can find/afford a later model axle to swap in.
Like I said my own fault, can't blame the adapter at all. If you do it, learn from my mistake and check the torque on the adapter to axle nuts a few times after you get it on the road.
I can personally say that I had a wheel adapter failure on my F-100, but I'll also say that it wasn't the adapter's fault. I installed 2" adapter spacers on the rear of my F-100 4x4 because I wanted the rear track width to more closely match the front. I did buy a set off of amazon, didn't buy the cheapest I could find, searched around for a set that had a lot of good reviews from people after driving on them for a while. In installed them per directions. Directions and my own concience said to pull the wheels after 50-100 miles and recheck the torque. I never did. Lug nuts holding adapter to axle backed off and studs failed from the abuse. When I recovered the wheel and tire they were in perfect shape and the adapter was still attached with the broken studs and backed off lug nuts still retained between it and the wheel. Obviously the adapter wasn't reusable because of the damage that the bolt holes received from bashing against the studs, but it wasn't cracked or anything like that. Rather than getting new spacers I just decided to run without until I can find/afford a later model axle to swap in.
Like I said my own fault, can't blame the adapter at all. If you do it, learn from my mistake and check the torque on the adapter to axle nuts a few times after you get it on the road.