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So I replaced the starter Feb 2016. Last couple of weeks the truck started to act up a little. Running around doing errands, stop and go and then I turn the key and just CLICK. No crank. Try again a couple of times then suddenly it starts. The next time ..nothing until I move the gear selector into Neutral. Ok. Maybe the position switch on the side of the tranny... replaced that about 4 yrs ago. Aftermarket doesn't seem to last as long as OEM.
Well it starts to happen more often and I notice it seems to happen when it is hot out and I am making frequent stops. Sometimes I click the ignition about 4 times and it starts. Other times I move the gear selector and it starts.
Cranks fine so not batteries. Checked them as well.
So I am thinking the starter is overheated from the motor. Replace that yesterday under warranty and it does crank faster. But it happened again today after unloading hay. Not sure tho if I clicked it a couple more times or I moved the selector but it fired right up on the 3rd try.
So....maybe it is the selector switch on the tranny
I forget which years have them but do you have a starter relay on your passenger's side fender? (I have a '99, I should know this one but I don't but I do believe that the early ones have it). If so you can try jumping that relay with a heavy screwdriver (there's a lot of amps going through there) and see if that's the problem. It sounds like relay or solenoid problem to me and the starter should have come with a new solenoid.
If you have to move the selector to start it , tighten the two bolts on the back of the steering col. They work loose and cause no starts. I had to do mine. Put your head down by the brake pedal, get a flash light and look up. You can move the selector a little to so what I mean. Easy fix if that's what it is.
If you have to move the selector to start it , tighten the two bolts on the back of the steering col. They work loose and cause no starts. I had to do mine. Put your head down by the brake pedal, get a flash light and look up. You can move the selector a little to so what I mean. Easy fix if that's what it is.
I forgot about that. I will have to check that in the AM. Thanks!
The answer is yes but I don't understand why. The one on the starter is the solenoid and a relay is a relay, it looks a lot like the GPR.
Because, the early starters are electromagnetic activated armatures and the newer design are gear driven armatures.
Solenoids are nothing more than a Switch, Relays are nothing more than a Switch. The LOAD is carried through a separate Circuit. The only identifiable differences is the Lug Size and Rating for Voltage and Amps.
On the early design, the Solenoid "Pulls" an arm which "Pushes" the Armature Shaft to meet the fly wheel. The newer uses a helical gear on a shaft that move the armature and gear outward of the case to meet the Flywheel. Both types are used in various applications depending on the use. Smaller CID Engines use the Arm design and Larger usually use the Gear. But, that's not a "rule". Just a witness. This (and the bolt pattern) is why a newer unit can be used on an older engine. But, not visa-versa. The Helical produces more torque in a shorter period, while the other is not as fast.
If you have to move the selector to start it , tighten the two bolts on the back of the steering col. They work loose and cause no starts. I had to do mine. Put your head down by the brake pedal, get a flash light and look up. You can move the selector a little to so what I mean. Easy fix if that's what it is.
Next door is a "group home" for mentally-challenged adults. They have an E-350 van as a house vehicle.
They were calling in their fleet mechanic on an almost weekly basis with a "no start" condition. He would simply replace the battery and they were good-to-go for another week or so.
I happened to be out in my driveway one day when they had a no-start, and I asked the driver to wiggle the shift lever a bit. Of course, it started.
I sent a detailed note to the house mother to send to her foundation's mechanic with instructions to tighten those two torx-headed bolts.
OK... So I went and got a new Solenoid.
I will say right now... never take for granted the condition of your terminals.
Replaced the solenoid and no start. Just the dash lights barely flickering and I could hear a slight tick tick tick really quick like a dead battery. Pulled the new part couple of times and bench tested before noticing the terminals and broke out the dremel. Cleaned everything up and it starts great again.
Sprayed a little dielectric on it and done deal.
Are you saying that the new solenoid terminals were compromised in some way, corroded or something else?
The ring terminals on my wiring were corroded. There are two that are placed under the large one on the post with 12v constant. There was enough corrosion on those that they barely, made a connection. Once cleaned they worked fine.
I will say right now... never take for granted the condition of your terminals.
Good point. You never know how long that part has been waiting to be sold or how it was stored.
In my Navy days there was a switch I had to replace. The spare we had on board the ship was almost 40 years old. We had to clean it up but it worked like a champ.
Good point. You never know how long that part has been waiting to be sold or how it was stored.
In my Navy days there was a switch I had to replace. The spare we had on board the ship was almost 40 years old. We had to clean it up but it worked like a champ.
The replacement was fine. It was the terminals o the end of my wiring that was all corroded. I almost wish I had checked that before I bought a new one. But....I figure with 322K+ miles on her...about time it went out.
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