Piston wrist pin
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 19
From: Central Wisconsin
Wow... lots of carbon above the top ring... engine is from grandpa's car no doubt.
If the cylinder doesn't have any scratched that you can catch a finger nail on you can hone it and bolt it back together after buying some parts...
If the cylinder doesn't have any scratched that you can catch a finger nail on you can hone it and bolt it back together after buying some parts...
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2016
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what parts
Temporarily Deactivated
Joined: Aug 2003
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Going back to that first picture, if you can feel those ripples with your finger, I wouldn't put it back together without a trip to the machine shop. You are going to have a lot of work in it. Leave out the time bombs.
They would have an opinion about the cause of the ripples and could tell you if you have a problem with your wrist pin.
They would have an opinion about the cause of the ripples and could tell you if you have a problem with your wrist pin.
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2016
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well i called the machine shop and they said 50 to rehone the one cylinder and 135 to bore them all so i figure might as well bore and get new pistons and rings since my truck could use some more power anyway
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 5,808
Likes: 456
Price everything out then maybe check around for a 351...the 302 is a turd. A cast 347 rotating assembly for the 302 is reasonably priced also.
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I was just reading about a Windsor engine out of a mountaineer or a lincoln SUV or something and it put out close to 300 HP. I don't pay much attention to small blocks beside the running the snot out of the one in my van. Near 300HP got my attention. There may be one sitting in junker near you.
Before you spend money on machining or parts, plan it out. The parts have to work together to make power. Magazine articles are usually about selling stuff.
Before you spend money on machining or parts, plan it out. The parts have to work together to make power. Magazine articles are usually about selling stuff.
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Joined: Aug 2003
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I tried to backtrack to the information about that SUV engine and couldn't find it. I think I was mislead and was going to mislead you too. I'll leave that alone for now.
Anyway, don't throw money at an engine without planning. Engine tech has come a long way since these old beasts were produced.
Anyway, don't throw money at an engine without planning. Engine tech has come a long way since these old beasts were produced.
Super Moderator
Joined: Apr 2004
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Sorry to tell you but a .030 overbore will do nothing by itself. The CI increase is nominal and all things considered, you may lose some cylinder pressure.
The regular production 302 was never rated at 300 HP in any year or any model, going back to 1968.
If the 302 has been enough for you with this truck, one that's tight and hitting on all cylinders will be fine.
While upgrades to the 302 or a 351W swap are "easy", that's easy relative to other modifications. Those upgrades and swaps can be complicated by the little things that always pop up, from accessory mounting to flywheel/flex plate balance, exhaust, cooling--
The regular production 302 was never rated at 300 HP in any year or any model, going back to 1968.
If the 302 has been enough for you with this truck, one that's tight and hitting on all cylinders will be fine.
While upgrades to the 302 or a 351W swap are "easy", that's easy relative to other modifications. Those upgrades and swaps can be complicated by the little things that always pop up, from accessory mounting to flywheel/flex plate balance, exhaust, cooling--
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2011
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I think the most hp rating for the 302 was 215, modest in terms of what it's capable of...and I'm not sure I believe that figure considering how well a 302 runs with untouched gt40ps and I'm not sure the hp changed with the switch from gt40 to gt40p.
Best thing you can do to your 302 with minimal money is to increase the compression via milling the e7s and using a thin head gasket. That'll increase hp across the board, including down low were it needs it most. If you're interested in this, I will provide more info.
Best thing you can do to your 302 with minimal money is to increase the compression via milling the e7s and using a thin head gasket. That'll increase hp across the board, including down low were it needs it most. If you're interested in this, I will provide more info.
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I think it must have been a 5.4 Lincoln DOHC Modular they were talking about. That wouldn't be an easy swap at all, would it?
What about the 302 or 351 with cheap aluminum heads to get a higher compression ratio with pump gas, deck the block to get the best quench and a custom cam with headers to get the dynamic compression just right? Who does this for SD trucks? $$$?
What about the 302 or 351 with cheap aluminum heads to get a higher compression ratio with pump gas, deck the block to get the best quench and a custom cam with headers to get the dynamic compression just right? Who does this for SD trucks? $$$?
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I think it must have been a 5.4 Lincoln DOHC Modular they were talking about. That wouldn't be an easy swap at all, would it?
What about the 302 or 351 with cheap aluminum heads to get a higher compression ratio with pump gas, deck the block to get the best quench and a custom cam with headers to get the dynamic compression just right? Who does this for SD trucks? $$$?
What about the 302 or 351 with cheap aluminum heads to get a higher compression ratio with pump gas, deck the block to get the best quench and a custom cam with headers to get the dynamic compression just right? Who does this for SD trucks? $$$?
As to pumping up the 302, the head and rocker change would give you a little bump.
Post 2 from Conanski might apply here. He seems to have memorized the entire production specs for the 302 and could tell you more:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ock-302-a.html