I have a 94 F150. I have replaced the starter 3 times in the last year! I have been using rebuilds from Pep Boys. The last one was a new one from Pep Boys. The starter is out again. I thought it was just bad starters. Is there something that could be causing the starters to go out? I have not replaced the solenoid/relay. Also the ignition is worn/broke and can be started without the key, I don’t know if these have anything to do with this problem. Thanks for your help!!

 

I don't want to add to your frustration, but in the past my experience with Pep-Boys replacement parts are, quite simply, way below par. I have bought calipers before that did not fit and had to be ground, I have bought brake pads that don't fit and a water pump that just did not quite fit. After the pads I quit buying there. The warranty is nice, but I just did not feel like replacing these parts over and over and customizing them to make 'em fit. I will only go with name brand parts. I have had good luck with dealer parts and parts from NAPA. Napa, in my experience, seems to be a higher grade of parts. I have also tried Trak/Auto but they are about the same as Pep-boys, and in my area, quite rude. So I'll pay the extra money knowing I won't have to continually replace these parts even if I get a free one when I take the old one in. I would try a starter from Napa or pay the extra bills and get a dealer rebuilt unit.

What exactly keeps failing in the starter? Is it electrical? Is it the bearings? Does it just stop working? Who knows maybe something else is causing it to break.

regards,

Bryan

 

Brian the starters quit working and fail the bench test. I assumed it was electrical but not really sure. I just go with the warranty replacement...

 

If they're failing the bench test, then the problem appears to be something is causing the starter to fry the armature windings. A number of things can cause this.

A. Mechanical binding... If the solenoid is over-extending the bendix gear, it may be binding against the flywheel. Are there any marks on the flywheel flange? If the bendix wasn't extending far enough, there would be no mistaking the horrible grinding noise.

B. Reduced voltage during normal starting ... When you put the new starter on, is it a crisp startup, or does it sound like it's dragging. If the starter is working properly, it should sound like it's trying to toss the engine outta the truck. If it's a slow whining start, then the voltage to the starter is drooping, causing excessive current on the armature, and smoking the windings.

I recently went through option B above, but luckily, did it only with one starter. There are two things to check from this point. If your 94 is anything like my 92, there is a small relay on the fender well next to the battery which only engages the larger solenoid on the starter. If the starter solenoid is engaging, that relay is more than likely ok. It doesn't take much to pick up the solenoid. However, on the positive post battery clamp, one large conductor goes to this relay, and the other goes to the starter solenoid, both molded into the lead clamp. A $2.00 battery clamp wound up solving my starter issues, but only after I replaced the battery and starter. My problem showed up slowly as the connection broke down. The cable showed no signs of heating or corrosion where the cables were molded into the clamp. but an ohmmeter check showed me the problem. Before I went after a new starter, though, I did disassemble mine, and yes, after 135K, it was beginning to have some problems with brush wear and a bit of carbon/dirt buildup causing sticky bearings. It was due anyway.

Sometimes, a warped plate in a battery can also cause a problem. It appears to have plenty oomf to it, but remember, when you first engage the starter, the inrush to a stalled series or permanent magnet motor (starter) is on the order of about 300 amps. You need a good clean current path to prevent current drop, and a good strong battery that doesn't collapse under the starting inrush. When you hit the starter, the warped plate in the battery may short against adjoining plates reducing the capacity of the battery. Few places can really test a battery for starting conditions, and lots of places will fail even a new battery (a sales ploy perhaps?).

 

paul_2, a man of so little words.

#$%$#$ Starter!!! does not really describe the problem, only how you feel.

what happened?

 

I love Pep Boys to death, but I would not buy rebuilt starters or alternators from them. I sell auto parts at a dealership, and I've learned over time to buy AC Delco reman starters/alternators (yes, even for my Ford) or OE FoMoCo replacements. All GM associations aside, Delco starters/alternators have an excellent track record.

 

Juste postedthis to another thread. Check the braided engine to chassis ground strap. Easy test, run a second cable directly from the starter to the frame. Sounds crazy, but its worth a try. This could be the source of the low voltage/high current draw that could be frying the starter.