I've had the 28' class C van for six months. I've updated the interior. It has started easily within 3-5 seconds until last week when I parked at my home to serve as a spare bedroom. IT WONT START!!
I was a journeyman machinist and have good mechanical skills but my car rebuilding experience was arrested with my 1964 XKE. I overhauled four engines, but a long time ago. What I've done to get the E350 going:
1. Replaced the fuel tank fuel pump. It was not bad but I was not putting an old one back.
2. Replaced both fuel relay switches. They were super corroded and I was sure that was it. Still no start.
3. I replaced the Ignition block on the side of the distributor. Still no start. I had spark at the plugs and spark at the injectors. I used a test light and screwdriver.
4. I removed the top of the fuel relays and closed those circuits with my fingers, and the engine fired right up. Turn them loose and the engine quits.
5. I was sure the ECM was blown when the fuel replays shorted. I replaced the ECM. still no start.
6. I checked the inertia switch in the kick panel on passenger side. I reset it but there is no power going to it.
7. Its like the switch has been turned off but if I close the fuel relays the engine starts right up.
Is there a fusible link or relay i'm missing? I'm to $450 putting on parts. I need some edgeinmycation.
Thanks in advance
George Elis

 

Short pin #2 to pin#6 of the self-test connector with the key in the run position and se if the fuel pump relay clicks (closes) when you short them.
If they do with the two pins shorted see if the engine will start.





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Thanks so much for your help!!!
I grounded the #2 and #6 hole in the red test block but the fuel pumps did not turn on. If I close the circuits with my fingers-- instant start with key crank.

 

I also tried one of the old style test instruments but i received no light flashes

 

When I pulled the inertia plug apart there was no electrical output in that black plug with the key in the on position

 

Why would you do that if it starts when you close the green bottom fuel pump relay?

With the fuel pump relay (green bottom) not closing when you ground pin #6 (not shorted to pin #2) you may not have power on the red wires coming from the EEC relay (brown bottom).
Does the EEC relay (brown bottom) close with the key on?
Does the red wire at any fuel injector have power with a loading test light with the key on?

 

I'll try the things you just wrote,
I thought the inertia switch might need reset and might be over riding the switch.
I check the fusible link close to the test block and battery:
the one with a green bottom had power above and below the link,
the yellow wire which was grey below the link did not have power.
I closed the two fuel relays and it started right up even with a weak battery. One of these relays turns on the fuel pumps, the other activates the switch on the fuel injection system.
I;m wondering if this blown fuse link was why I received no feedback from the ole style test tool (OBD?)
Thanks for you time!!

 

I shorted the #2 to frame, shorted #6 to frame=nothing
I inserted a gem clip from #2 to #6, andalso shorted them to frame=Nothing

I have power in the yellow wire above and below the fusible link close to the battery=nothing
There is power to the electronic block that controls the fuel injection power in Blck wire with orange tracer, and power in red with green tracer

There is power in the block that starts the pumps, brown bottom yellow wire.

Neither of these comes on with the key but both click on the pumps and fuel injector if you manually close those circuits.

I should just ship it to Kansas and let you figure it out!
George

 

All of the fuse links should have power at each end.
When you close the relay you are sending power from a Black wire with an orange stripe from a fuse link to the out put contact of the relay.
The green bottom relay just sends power to the fuel pumps.
The brown bottom relay sends power to the fuel injectors, coil of the fuel pump relay, EEC Computer and other solenoids.

 

Did you have the key on when you grounded pin #6?
Pin #2 is also a ground but it runs through the EEC Computer to a wire at the NEG post of the battery.
Make sure this black wire with a green stripe wire has a good connection to the NEG post of the battery.

 

I'm working every day on this van, but still no start. I put rubber bands around the fuel relay and the one for the injector and finally got it to a friends house where we can work better.
I only had power in the #6 hole with key on-- nothing on #2 or #6
I replaced the ignition switch because even though the starter was working fine everything else was acting like the switch was not on. No help!

The inertia switch was my next target. Before I removed it there was power to the red wire but if I inserted a short jumper as soon as I inserted the other side it went dead. I removed it because one post looked black like it was burnt. No current would go through it when closed, current would go through it when tripped (in the up position)

I checked the high pressure fuel pump. It pumps fine and its connections are tight. I removed one fuse link close to the battery that had current on the top but not the bottom. The one beside it was fine. I'll go looking for the rest today. I printed out a large copy of the wiring diagram. It appears to be at three more (sets)?

Again, thanks for your interest. I don't know how to set up an alarm when you reply so there is too much time between posts; plus, it takes me quite a while to figure out how to get back to my posts. I am puzzled by all the security steps, but I appreciate the site!
George

 

Check your e-mail Junk Folder, maybe your notifications are going there...?

 

Sounds like you are not getting key power to the ECU relay. When you press it close(relay contact), then the engine will run from what I read?

When you 1st turn on the ignition key on(no start), the ECU relay will click and then fuel pump relay will click on for a few seconds then goes off till the ECU see's ignition RPM then will turn fuel pump relay back on for engine to run.

Need to check for power from ignition switch to the ECU relay.
It is a RED-Lt Green wire on the relay. Should have battery voltage with key on.
The BLACK-Lt Green wire is the relay coil's ground side.
The BLACK-ORG wire is battery power for the ECU
The RED wire is the output of the relay going to the fuel pump relay and all ECU operated parts.

 

Your note seems right on, but I cannot figure out how to get power to the EEC, which powers the injection system?
I don't have power to the red wire going to the inertia switch-- which I replaced.

Here's what I've done to now. Today I replaced the electronic ignition relay again today in case I had damaged it closing that circuit by hand.

I still cannot get my RV started. This has been an education from hell. I've lost all confidence is this vehicle. There's even a guy who wants to buy it and I cant get it fixed!!

I've replaced over $650 in parts:
rear fuel pump,
EEC
Electronic fuel relay
ECM --the computer under the AC evaporator inside (two units the found short killed the new one I think)
Ignition switch
Ignition module (on the side of the distributor)
I installed a new inertia switch.

I think we killed the second computer when we discovered the cause? the house battery cable dead shorted on the motor when the covering melted. I wrapped it and put a 1800 degree sleeve over it and rerouted it so it is further away from a possible melt/ground again.

I have NO FIRE ON INJECTORS WHEN CRANKING ( unless I close them w my hands)
NO POWER TO THE PLUGS WHEN CRANKING ( unless i close them with my hands)
I have no power in any of the plug holes in the red test block. I think i had power in #4 earlier but not now.
The yellow wire and the black wire with green tracer has power.
I unwrapped the wires near the two relays brown and green and found two more fuse links. Bk has power but the grey wire is dead on both sides of that fuse link.

Can the distributor pickup cause this?
If I close the two square relays near the battery, it starts in 2-3 seconds

My phone number is 859-393-8004 if you'd be willing to talk to me about this problem. The RV acts like the inertia switch has tripped, but that switch is new. Both the relays brown and green were VERY rusty and I was sure that was it, but no. A computer rebuilding company told me there were two segments or ports? that were shorted out of the computer.

I'm most suspicious of the grey wire that goes to the test block= no power anywhere.

Heeelllpppp!!
George
THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP. I'M NOT AN ELECTRICAL GUY BUT THE OLD MAN HELPING ME HAS WORKED ON CARS 50 YEARS AND HE IS STUMPED AS WELL.

 

Sounds like you have an open Ignition Fuse Link on the drivers side, engine compartment down low near the steering column.


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