VSS/Wiring/PSOM/RAB Finding A Solution
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Junior User
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I have added a photo of where it is being grounded to frame and the location in which I am planning on running new ground to the actual engine. Is this an acceptable location? I know I've said it before, but thank you.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: St Albert, Alberta
I have added a photo of where it is being grounded to frame and the location in which I am planning on running new ground to the actual engine. Is this an acceptable location?
images uploader
images uploader
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To be honest I have no idea where it is at and my electrical manual says it's on the passenger side to the block. I want to put it where it's supposed to go on my 7.5 block however I don't know more then the general area. So now I just want a suitable location to see if it will fix my issue.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
Likes: 121
From: St Albert, Alberta
To be honest I have no idea where it is at and my electrical manual says it's on the passenger side to the block. I want to put it where it's supposed to go on my 7.5 block however I don't know more then the general area. So now I just want a suitable location to see if it will fix my issue.
And here is another
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Easton,Ks
Here is the photo of the engine ground taken using my F250 460 (7.5L) but it is in the same place on the engine as the F53 photo above. Very hard to get a photo through the wheel well.
You would have to remove the front wheel and inter fender or pry it out of the way to get to the engine ground point.
My center lug on the my ground cable I just found out is not bolted to the frame at all.
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You would have to remove the front wheel and inter fender or pry it out of the way to get to the engine ground point.
My center lug on the my ground cable I just found out is not bolted to the frame at all.
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What wires did you hook the tachometer to? (colors)
Setting a tachometer to 6 in an 8 will only make it read wrong.
With the check engine light (MIL) going on and off with it making the sounds of running codes sounds like PCM reinitiation.
Reinitiation can be caused by power going off and on to the PCM Computer or a computer sensor wire being shorted to ground. Also the lost of ground to the computer will cause this also.
How do you have the battery grounded?
Does it have a large (6GA) wire going to the Body (not frame) from the NEG post and the large cable going to the engine block?
Your truck does not use the frame for a ground point except for trailer wiring. For trailer wiring the ground source is a center lug bolted to the frame of the battery large ground cable.
Setting a tachometer to 6 in an 8 will only make it read wrong.
With the check engine light (MIL) going on and off with it making the sounds of running codes sounds like PCM reinitiation.
Reinitiation can be caused by power going off and on to the PCM Computer or a computer sensor wire being shorted to ground. Also the lost of ground to the computer will cause this also.
How do you have the battery grounded?
Does it have a large (6GA) wire going to the Body (not frame) from the NEG post and the large cable going to the engine block?
Your truck does not use the frame for a ground point except for trailer wiring. For trailer wiring the ground source is a center lug bolted to the frame of the battery large ground cable.
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
I have a feeling that your truck already has the ground cable going to the engine. You are just seeing the cable going to the center cable lug and thinking that was the end of the cable, but it is not.
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You are very much correct, just verified that is there. Alright back to the drawing board again. The gauges drop out for a millisecond like a power fluctuation and the battery gauge will go to the low end of the scale near 8 when it happens. Putting it in park will make it go to the upper end. I want to rule out it being the cluster because it does it to my new tach gauge as well. Could this be an odd sign of a failing alternator. The battery has never died on me.
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Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
If an AC Generator (alternator) stops having out put it will not drop the voltage unless you have an intermittent large electrical load.
Maybe the large red battery cable that runs from the POS post to the starter solenoid mounted on top of the starter has an intermittent short to ground. I am not talking about the starter relay on the passenger fender.
The insulation on this cable can melt from heat coming from the exhaust manifold and then short to ground.
Maybe the large red battery cable that runs from the POS post to the starter solenoid mounted on top of the starter has an intermittent short to ground. I am not talking about the starter relay on the passenger fender.
The insulation on this cable can melt from heat coming from the exhaust manifold and then short to ground.
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If an AC Generator (alternator) stops having out put it will not drop the voltage unless you have an intermittent large electrical load.
Maybe the large red battery cable that runs from the POS post to the starter solenoid mounted on top of the starter has an intermittent short to ground. I am not talking about the starter relay on the passenger fender.
The insulation on this cable can melt from heat coming from the exhaust manifold and then short to ground.
Maybe the large red battery cable that runs from the POS post to the starter solenoid mounted on top of the starter has an intermittent short to ground. I am not talking about the starter relay on the passenger fender.
The insulation on this cable can melt from heat coming from the exhaust manifold and then short to ground.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Easton,Ks
I would hook a volt meter to fuse #17 after replacing fuse #17.
If the meter shows it dropping voltage then hook the meter (long wires) to fuse "P".
If it does not drop hooked to fuse "P" when the problem happens replace the ignition switch (not the tumbler) or its plug.
If the meter shows it dropping voltage then hook the meter (long wires) to fuse "P".
If it does not drop hooked to fuse "P" when the problem happens replace the ignition switch (not the tumbler) or its plug.
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I would hook a volt meter to fuse #17 after replacing fuse #17.
If the meter shows it dropping voltage then hook the meter (long wires) to fuse "P".
If it does not drop hooked to fuse "P" when the problem happens replace the ignition switch (not the tumbler) or its plug.
If the meter shows it dropping voltage then hook the meter (long wires) to fuse "P".
If it does not drop hooked to fuse "P" when the problem happens replace the ignition switch (not the tumbler) or its plug.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,668
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From: Easton,Ks
Meter to the 12V range (more than likely 20 Volt DC range).
Not across but the black lead to ground and the red wire to fuse.
You might have to do this twice, once for each side of each fuse.
There are plug in fuse holder that you can hook to them after after exposing the wire conductor.
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Not across but the black lead to ground and the red wire to fuse.
You might have to do this twice, once for each side of each fuse.
There are plug in fuse holder that you can hook to them after after exposing the wire conductor.
/
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Meter to the 12V range (more than likely 20 Volt DC range).
Not across but the black lead to ground and the red wire to fuse.
You might have to do this twice, once for each side of each fuse.
There are plug in fuse holder that you can hook to them after after exposing the wire conductor.
/
Not across but the black lead to ground and the red wire to fuse.
You might have to do this twice, once for each side of each fuse.
There are plug in fuse holder that you can hook to them after after exposing the wire conductor.
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upload my image on image website oh i get it the fuse holder will allow to test both wires at same time. Will a ground in the cab do? Also they don't have a maxi one do they?
