VSS/Wiring/PSOM/RAB Finding A Solution
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Junior User
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Situation update. I installed a tachometer into the truck today (wanted the cluster one, but was to impatient so spliced one into the cluster harness crimp and heat shrinked) I also unplugged the abs module. First off the tach made the truck go nuts at first it started shut off as well as seem to be making the noise that you get w.e you run codes. I'm going to cross my fingers and say this was all because I didn't set the cylinders to 8 on the tach? If that has nothing to do with it potential going nuts let me know please. As for the drive it now seems to shift through all gears pretty smoothly also every bump doesn't make it go crazy throwing speedo off and putting into limp mode. I am happy for that. However the check engine light will randomly pop on for less then 1 second and go back out. The battery meter goes to the low end a little. I can't seem to recreate the situation it just happens. Also in park the battery needle is to the right toward 18 while driving more near 8. I also shook tge cluster like crazy to try and get it to recreate the random check engine battery meter fluctuation. Am I going in the right direction? Any ideas on what's going on?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Easton,Ks
What wires did you hook the tachometer to? (colors)
Setting a tachometer to 6 in an 8 will only make it read wrong.
With the check engine light (MIL) going on and off with it making the sounds of running codes sounds like PCM reinitiation.
Reinitiation can be caused by power going off and on to the PCM Computer or a computer sensor wire being shorted to ground. Also the lost of ground to the computer will cause this also.
How do you have the battery grounded?
Does it have a large (6GA) wire going to the Body (not frame) from the NEG post and the large cable going to the engine block?
Your truck does not use the frame for a ground point except for trailer wiring. For trailer wiring the ground source is a center lug bolted to the frame of the battery large ground cable.
Setting a tachometer to 6 in an 8 will only make it read wrong.
With the check engine light (MIL) going on and off with it making the sounds of running codes sounds like PCM reinitiation.
Reinitiation can be caused by power going off and on to the PCM Computer or a computer sensor wire being shorted to ground. Also the lost of ground to the computer will cause this also.
How do you have the battery grounded?
Does it have a large (6GA) wire going to the Body (not frame) from the NEG post and the large cable going to the engine block?
Your truck does not use the frame for a ground point except for trailer wiring. For trailer wiring the ground source is a center lug bolted to the frame of the battery large ground cable.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2017
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What wires did you hook the tachometer to? (colors)
Setting a tachometer to 6 in an 8 will only make it read wrong.
With the check engine light (MIL) going on and off with it making the sounds of running codes sounds like PCM reinitiation.
Reinitiation can be caused by power going off and on to the PCM Computer or a computer sensor wire being shorted to ground. Also the lost of ground to the computer will cause this also.
How do you have the battery grounded?
Does it have a large (6GA) wire going to the Body (not frame) from the NEG post and the large cable going to the engine block?
Your truck does not use the frame for a ground point except for trailer wiring. For trailer wiring the ground source is a center lug bolted to the frame of the battery large ground cable.
Setting a tachometer to 6 in an 8 will only make it read wrong.
With the check engine light (MIL) going on and off with it making the sounds of running codes sounds like PCM reinitiation.
Reinitiation can be caused by power going off and on to the PCM Computer or a computer sensor wire being shorted to ground. Also the lost of ground to the computer will cause this also.
How do you have the battery grounded?
Does it have a large (6GA) wire going to the Body (not frame) from the NEG post and the large cable going to the engine block?
Your truck does not use the frame for a ground point except for trailer wiring. For trailer wiring the ground source is a center lug bolted to the frame of the battery large ground cable.
Ground - Bk/Wh
Power - R/Y,
Tach - Wh/Pk
Illumination - LB/R
That's all the information I have atm. I will look at the battery ground after I get off work. There is 2 bigger wires coming off the neg post at the top of my head.
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At anyrate I'm going to switch ground to the black yellow tach ground. Hopefully this will fix the nonsense so I can put my dash back together. If that's not a wise idea let me know.
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Junior User
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I checked my wiring book when I got home, but I put the ground to black yellow. Will give the truck a test. Although I don't think the tach is what is causing the odd battery and flash engine light, oh and not sure if you missed, but grounds are to frame and body from battery. It looks very factory, though the diagram does show it mounted to engine. Not sure if it being on frame really makes a difference?
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Junior User
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I will ground it to the engine tommorow. I was curious to why the engine so I googled it and there wasn't a clear answer, but rather people saying ground to engine then use a grounding start from engine to frame. Why ground to engine at all if people just ground from engine to frame anyway?
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: St Albert, Alberta
I will ground it to the engine tommorow. I was curious to why the engine so I googled it and there wasn't a clear answer, but rather people saying ground to engine then use a grounding start from engine to frame. Why ground to engine at all if people just ground from engine to frame anyway?
Fleet Owner
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From: Easton,Ks
Also the engine is isolated from the frame with rubber mounts and there is no continuity between the engine and frame. So if the large ground cable does not run to the engine block (or starter bolt for a 4.9L) you will burn up the radio static strap between the engine and safety wall and the engine will not crank.
If you have continuity between the engine and frame more than likely you have bad mounts and bushings.
There is no reason to run a ground to the frame unless you pull a trailer as the trucks electrical system does not have any ground wires running to the frame.
Note that there are push on radio static strap between the body and frame but they are not meant to ground the frame for electrical devices. Also some older trucks (non OBS trucks) did use the frame for a ground point for the fuel selector valve and the F53 ground cable does go to a frame tie point.
If you have continuity between the engine and frame more than likely you have bad mounts and bushings.
There is no reason to run a ground to the frame unless you pull a trailer as the trucks electrical system does not have any ground wires running to the frame.
Note that there are push on radio static strap between the body and frame but they are not meant to ground the frame for electrical devices. Also some older trucks (non OBS trucks) did use the frame for a ground point for the fuel selector valve and the F53 ground cable does go to a frame tie point.
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Alright today I attempted to use a go pro to just record what I'm looking at etc well it was a fail with having 0 zoom. At any rate I did not see a ground going to the engine block like the drawing shows in the electrical book only to the frame. So at this point do I just add a ground cable from the battery and loosen up a bolt on the engine block then tighten down? I want to put it where it belongs as I'm ocd when it comes to being correct in a it comes from the factory like that kind of way. Also don't want to screw something else up playing with the wrong bolt. Also will a regular grounding strap due from the negative on the battery to a engine bolt or do I need a big chunk of wire?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Easton,Ks
The book says it is located at the Lower RH front of engine.
Yes I would say add a AWG #2 cable between the NEG post and the engine block.
The only photo I have is of a F53 but I would think it is the same spot.
Not sure why Ford used a braided ground strap on the F53 for the engine ground but maybe COACHMEN put that on:
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Yes I would say add a AWG #2 cable between the NEG post and the engine block.
The only photo I have is of a F53 but I would think it is the same spot.
Not sure why Ford used a braided ground strap on the F53 for the engine ground but maybe COACHMEN put that on:
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