Seems strange that Alliant o-rings would fail after only 55K miles, but I am no expert on the matter by any means.

 

I'll bet a CCT would tell me which cylinder. Except it has to be at a certain running temp, right?

Or maybe it will *run* but not as accurate as when warmed up?

If it will run, one of my cylinders is really rough, probably oiling like a can, and should show right up, correct?

I thought of a backup method....

Since she starts really slow now...

1. Unplug 48 pin connector and crank motor over about 4 or 5 secs with starter to build ICP with HPOP. It should push past a failed oring

2. Pull the Glowplugs on the offending side and cover with a secured shop rag.

3. Crank for few moments until one of the rags is wet with oil. If it doesn't, plug in 48 pin and try again for a few secs at a time to spray the fuel+oil into the cylinder through the injector with the bad oring, and it should spray out the hole.

It shouldn't start because no compression without the orings, but the injectors don't know that, so they should still fire, right?

Now you know which cylinder has the oil from a BAD injector oil-oring leak.

Think it would work?

 

I appreciate the offer. It would be fun. But I don't think she'd make the trip at $23/gallon oil at maybe 5 miles per gallon, LOL.

If you were closer, I'd be lighting the grill

Pretty sure I have some help now. Not experienced, but I can work with that

 

I wish I were closer and could offer a hand. Imagine the "injector install" video we could make if someone else was doing the work while I was taping...

 

It would be strange, but remember, that was one of the FIRST things I did. I had help, it was late, we were rushed, and I was...just off a previous medical problem. Twilight Zone? LOL.

I think we lubed them with oil, not assembly lube. I never saw an injector in person before that, all new to me.

I have a faint image of *something* with cylinder #2. I think I leaned on the upper coolant hose and something pushed into the cylinder. It was late, it was dark, and I had no clue.

Now I am thinking maybe injector cup or sealant? Maybe that was coolant?

I'll check it closely this time. If it is the cup, I'll setup for that job pronto as well. It is just as likely that I didn't see what I thought I saw, though, LOL.

I think I also have a better idea of what to look at/for with the injectors and their parts, too, to judge their overall health.

We didn't have a decent torque wrench in the 120+ inch lbs range. I had smaller and much larger. Time for a new tool! I used a ft-lb to retorque a few weeks ago.

What about the CAC cooler? Does it have a drain or something at the bottom for oil? Maybe it wasn't all burning, maybe the cooler is filled and wasn't working well, leading to higher EGTs?

That may have killed the turbo bearings that now need rebuilt?

Spitballing out loud here for input and opinions, please

 

Yeah, that would be fun, too!

Imagine you, me, and Mark....whoo-willl-wooo--willl (imagination scene music)


I won't speculate who we were calling for help, or who was correcting us from behind

 

I'm thinking before spinning a wrench, let's see what the pcm says.

Too many variables. You did injectors with trusted parts and did put a new fan on the turbo etc...

Generally my truck screws me when I try and love it. and then I'm on the bottom for my efforts.

Let's read some real-time and go from there.

Both issues would provide the same effect, so lets try to eliminate one possible.

Get some rest,

Denny

 

LOL

 

If you're thinking it won't start with one side out - 4 glow plugs out - you might be wrong. I drove my '97 almost a hundred miles, and then carted a ton of gravel a few miles for a friend, with half the engine out due to a bad IDM. It was a little down on power...

 

Good point. Should have all 8 GPs out. Which doesn't really save too much time as it would be nice to do one side at a time

 

injector o rings will not put oil in tail pipe. these engines burn oil just fine, oil can go to the fuel rail from an o ring, but not un burnt into the exhaust. if that much oil is some how getting past the injectors your engine would hydro-lock.

 

Thanks

Looks like I'll be rebuilding the turbo with another 360 kit as well. Better to know than not

I asked about the differences in kits Here

 

upper grove to middle grove is high pressure oil,
middle grove to lower grove is fuel,
lower grove to copper washer is nothing.
for oil to get to the cylinder it would have to go past the center grove o ring and the copper washer.
oil does erode the center o ring and dump oil in to the fuel, mixing with fuel and burning it.
I have replaced o rings where 5 center o rings were eroded and the truck was burning 1 gallon of oil every 100 miles and no wet oil in tail pipe.

 

That's a great pic, thanks

I'm going to checking copper washers and cups carefully, in case one of them failed and is dumping fuel + oil.

Did have some "contains 5%-20% biodiesel" fuel stations along the way. Not sure if they would affect anything?

I used Powerservice in the gray bottle each tank I was towing.

Not really sure what I'm going to find. Hopefully just a FROG stuck in her craw

 

I hope bio diesel isn't a problem, cause my trucks like it and i can make it for under $1.00 per gallon.