pyrometer and boost gauges
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#2
pyrometer and boost gauges
There are pro's and con's for each location. I put mine before because it gives me a more accurate reading. Some don't like the idea of putting it before because of the possibility of it breaking off or melting and getting sucked up into the turbo. I don't personally know of that happening to anyone, but I'm sure it is possible. As for the location, I put mine in the 3 pod A pillar. They look great and are easy to see yet not in the way.
#3
pyrometer and boost gauges
Some don't like the idea of putting it before because of the possibility of it breaking off or melting and getting sucked up into the turbo.
Type K thermocouples (in both military aircraft, and our trucks) are calibrated to 2300*F, well above what a Powerstroke is capable of producing, and even if the tip did break off, it would likely pass by the turbine wheel and go out the exhaust with minimal (or no) damage. And like rvfiver said, it is much more accurate pre-turbo.
The boost gauge can be tapped a couple of ways. It can be spliced into the hose to the MAP sensor, or you can drill and tap the Y-manifold that's hooked to the turbo's compressor outlet. The Y-manifold will give higher readings as it measures boost before the intercooler, and ducting. The MAP sensor line will show the amount of boost that is actually entering the engine.
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#6
pyrometer and boost gauges
I purchasd the Autometer Lunar gauges and the Boost gauge came with the hardware to tap into the "Y". There was not a "T" adapter to splice into the MAP line.
I had to purchase a separate kit, I beleive it was a Banks, Part #63033 that had the "T" connector and fitting to install in the MAP line.
I had to purchase a separate kit, I beleive it was a Banks, Part #63033 that had the "T" connector and fitting to install in the MAP line.
#7
pyrometer and boost gauges
Originally posted by getnbz
where is the best location for the thermocouple
where is the best location for the thermocouple
So, you can put your thermocouple at the tail pipe, subtract out a fudge factor for the exterior temperature drawing heat away from the piping, multiply by a decimal factor related to the amount of work that the turbo is doing at that moment, subtract out another factor for throttle position and pray like crazy that you are somewhere in the ball park. Or you can put it where it belongs - as close to the exhaust valve as possible.
Remember, you are trying to keep those aluminum pistons inside the cylinder from melting. You should not be concerned about your steel turbo starting to get a little warm.
Turbo temperature at shutdown, is a different, and in my ever so humble opinion, a lesser consideration. I can buy a whole lot of turbos for what it would cost me to repair an engine after piston meltdown. But with an EGT gauge, properly placed in the exhaust manifold, I always know what sort of temperatures my turbo has been subjected to, and have a pretty good idea of how long I should idle that engine before turning that key off. Beyond this, the use of full synthetic oil which will not coke until around 450 degrees offers me quite a cushion in this area as well.
I'd like to take this opportunity to put this question to bed once and for all. Do you drive a PowerStroke engine, or or do you drive an 18cm turbo? Which one do you really want to protect?
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#8
pyrometer and boost gauges
Originally posted by Carfunkel
I'd like to take this opportunity to put this question to bed once and for all. Do you drive a PowerStroke engine, or or do you drive an 18cm turbo? Which one do you really want to protect?
I'd like to take this opportunity to put this question to bed once and for all. Do you drive a PowerStroke engine, or or do you drive an 18cm turbo? Which one do you really want to protect?
#9
pyrometer and boost gauges
I want to hook up my Trans Temp and PRE-turbo temp gauge and need to get to the headlight switch wiring so I can hook up the lights to the dimmer. I have a 2001 F350 and I have tried several suggestions for getting out the headlight/dimmer switch assembly with no luck. I tried the screwdriver in the bottom slot but couldn't get it to release. There must be a trick to this. Any suggestions??????
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
#10
pyrometer and boost gauges
the way the switch is designed sucks. that little slot messed me up to. the whole assembly actually pulls strait out. i actually kinda cracked the outside of my switch messing with it too much. my sugestion would be to try and push it out from the back if you got real skinny arms. if thats a no go I would just ask the dealership for the special tool that slips in there. I am only assuming there is a special tool.
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#13
pyrometer and boost gauges
IF PUTTING THE PYRO PRE IS BETTER , WHY THEN DOES BANKS AND OTHERS TAP THE DOWN PIPE FOR THE PYRO? ALSO ON THE BOOST , WHAT DOES THE MAP SENSOR LOOK LIKE, AND WHERE IS IT LOCATED? I WAS TOLD TO PLACE IT IN THE LINE TO THE BOOST SENSOR ON THE FIREWALL? NOT STUPID, JUST NEW. THANKS
#14
pyrometer and boost gauges
Originally posted by TERSEJR
IF PUTTING THE PYRO PRE IS BETTER , WHY THEN DOES BANKS AND OTHERS TAP THE DOWN PIPE FOR THE PYRO? ALSO ON THE BOOST , WHAT DOES THE MAP SENSOR LOOK LIKE, AND WHERE IS IT LOCATED? I WAS TOLD TO PLACE IT IN THE LINE TO THE BOOST SENSOR ON THE FIREWALL? NOT STUPID, JUST NEW. THANKS
IF PUTTING THE PYRO PRE IS BETTER , WHY THEN DOES BANKS AND OTHERS TAP THE DOWN PIPE FOR THE PYRO? ALSO ON THE BOOST , WHAT DOES THE MAP SENSOR LOOK LIKE, AND WHERE IS IT LOCATED? I WAS TOLD TO PLACE IT IN THE LINE TO THE BOOST SENSOR ON THE FIREWALL? NOT STUPID, JUST NEW. THANKS
http://www.galebanks.com/Tech_whyegt.cfm
Whether the pyrometer thermocouple is mounted before or after the turbine is usually a matter of finding a suitable mounting location, or of convenience. It should be noted that when the EGT is measured after the turbine, the turbine outlet temperature at full throttle or under a heavy load typically would be 200º to 300º F. lower than the EGT measured in the exhaust manifold (turbine inlet temperature). The temperature drop after the turbo indicates the amount of heat energy in the total exhaust gas flow that was used to drive the turbocharger. The temperature drop through the turbine is also related to the total flow and speed of the flow through the turbo. At part throttle, under light load, such as cruise conditions, the turbine outlet EGT may be as much as 500º F. lower than the turbine inlet temperature, but the total exhaust flow is much less than at full throttle. At high turbine speeds (under heavy load) the exhaust gases simply don’t have time to give up as much heat energy as they speed through the turbine. This variance is why installation of the thermocouple in the exhaust manifold is considered more accurate.