Fan clutch
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Fan clutch
06 6.0 fan clutch stuck in engaged position. So I changed the fan clutch it doesn't stay engaged anymore. comes on during startup and gives the appearance that the batteries are dying. Stays on for about 10 minutes when first driving then goes off. If I run ac it comes on at every light and it doesn't matter what engine coolant temp or oil temp and they are all within 6 degrees of each other. I'm thinking maybe the AC is a issue or bad sensor somewhere. No codes everything seems to be functioning. When I say comes on it's on high speed roaring.
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Breckenridge, TX
It's not unusual for the fan to be locked at startup if it was when you shut down, but 10 minutes would be excessive. The locking up at every light issue is probably related to the AC pressure switch.
These can be stored incorrectly and cause them to fail right out of the box, you need a scanner that can pull fan speed and clutch duty cycle to compare the commanded DC with the fan speed ramping up. DashBoss, ScanGauge and IDS do it, not 100% sure what else does. Edge Insight doesn't.
These can be stored incorrectly and cause them to fail right out of the box, you need a scanner that can pull fan speed and clutch duty cycle to compare the commanded DC with the fan speed ramping up. DashBoss, ScanGauge and IDS do it, not 100% sure what else does. Edge Insight doesn't.
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I put in a new ac pressure switch I drove it fan clutch turned off in about 60 seconds and came on 1 more time during my short drive. I didn't drive it for a long drive yet. Ac seems to be functioning alot better seemed colder than normal... Thanks for all the info I really appreciate it. I will let you know how it ends up I'm definitely doing the bulletproof fan clutch adapter change to remedy the issue...
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
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From: Texas
I put in a new ac pressure switch I drove it fan clutch turned off in about 60 seconds and came on 1 more time during my short drive. I didn't drive it for a long drive yet. Ac seems to be functioning alot better seemed colder than normal... Thanks for all the info I really appreciate it. I will let you know how it ends up I'm definitely doing the bulletproof fan clutch adapter change to remedy the issue...
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,741
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I put in a new ac pressure switch I drove it fan clutch turned off in about 60 seconds and came on 1 more time during my short drive. I didn't drive it for a long drive yet. Ac seems to be functioning alot better seemed colder than normal... Thanks for all the info I really appreciate it. I will let you know how it ends up I'm definitely doing the bulletproof fan clutch adapter change to remedy the issue...
-blaine
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Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
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From: Texas
The vacuum operated A/C switch that closes the valve on your coolant line to the heater core is right behind the alternator. I just put a manual ball valve in it's place to shut off hot coolant from running through the heater core because those vacuum operated valves never close all the way and allow hot coolant to knock down the efficiency of your A/C. The A/C works much better and all I have to do is open the ball valve this winter.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2007
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That's already been addressed. The one I'm talking about is in the high-pressure line from the compressor to the condenser. The PCM monitors this one to supposedly know when to increase the fan speed when the high-side pressure passes a predetermined limit.
My truck's AC is reasonably competent when cruising on the freeway. But get shut down in one of Austin's notorious traffic jams, and it just about stops working. It's been this way since about two years old, so I'm thinking that either the pressure switch is borderline, or the programming is screwed. One I can do something about, one I cannot.
-blaine
My truck's AC is reasonably competent when cruising on the freeway. But get shut down in one of Austin's notorious traffic jams, and it just about stops working. It's been this way since about two years old, so I'm thinking that either the pressure switch is borderline, or the programming is screwed. One I can do something about, one I cannot.
-blaine
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 3,941
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From: Texas
That's already been addressed. The one I'm talking about is in the high-pressure line from the compressor to the condenser. The PCM monitors this one to supposedly know when to increase the fan speed when the high-side pressure passes a predetermined limit.
My truck's AC is reasonably competent when cruising on the freeway. But get shut down in one of Austin's notorious traffic jams, and it just about stops working. It's been this way since about two years old, so I'm thinking that either the pressure switch is borderline, or the programming is screwed. One I can do something about, one I cannot.
-blaine
My truck's AC is reasonably competent when cruising on the freeway. But get shut down in one of Austin's notorious traffic jams, and it just about stops working. It's been this way since about two years old, so I'm thinking that either the pressure switch is borderline, or the programming is screwed. One I can do something about, one I cannot.
-blaine
Check this out:
BPD 7.3 Fan clutch adapter review - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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New User
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A/c works better than ever. Fan clutch still engaged more than normal only when ac is on and on surface streets on freeway it works normal seem like my trouble are low speed with AC on. I am going to have to do the bulletproof conversion...
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2007
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For the record, that's the low-side switch.
The PCM monitors both high side and low side pressures.
If the high side pressure gets too high, it ramps up the fan, and then ultimately disengages the compressor, to keep from blowing the system up.
If the low side pressure gets too low, it disengages the compressor; mostly to keep the system from freezing up, but also to keep the compressor from damage due to low refrigerant/lubrication.
Hazarding a guess, the computer was seeing the low side pressure too low, and keeping the compressor off.
-blaine
The PCM monitors both high side and low side pressures.
If the high side pressure gets too high, it ramps up the fan, and then ultimately disengages the compressor, to keep from blowing the system up.
If the low side pressure gets too low, it disengages the compressor; mostly to keep the system from freezing up, but also to keep the compressor from damage due to low refrigerant/lubrication.
Hazarding a guess, the computer was seeing the low side pressure too low, and keeping the compressor off.
-blaine
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Thanks for the correction do you think both high and low side could be going bad together. I put gauges on it the pressures seemed high at first then stabilized to normal after it ran for a few minutes.