i put a new used steering colum in my 69 f250 the old one was hammered on by the p.o. but i got impatient and used an impact driver to install the wheel now i cannot get the wheel back off the two threaded holes in the steering wheel are getting stripped out and the end of the shaft is not even so i cannot put a puller on it yet i am thinking of going to the wrecking yard and getting another colum . should i get a newer one with cruise control and tilt steering or just stick with the same year. the truck doesn't move yet the tranny linkage is messed up car tranny verses truck tranny. that and i have wiring issues to. remember don't loan your truck out to people who think they know what they are doing. the only thing he did right was spend a few thousand dollars on the suspention at les schwab wich gave it real good suspention and 4 good tires. does anyone know where i can get a good windsheild he broke that too damn some peoples kids

 

The metal in the steering wheel where those threaded holes are is hardened steel. Are you sure those holes are getting stripped out? I would expect the bolt to strip before those. Especially if you aren't using grade 8 bolts. Try chasing those threads and see if you can clean them out.
1969 was the year Ford changed from the Bendix to the Ford/Saginaw steering boxes if you have P/S. They were a different lengths so the columns were also. 4X2 and 4X4 different. M/S and P/S have different columns also. The easiest way is to get the same column. 67/69 1/2 (before ser #G30,001) or 69 1/2 (after G30,001 to 1972. If you have the 69 1/2 to 72 the 73/77 columns can be adapted in. But the T/S switch wiring is a bit different. 1975 was the 1st year for cruise. 78/79 columns could be adapted in. Again the T/S switch wiring changed. 1978 was the 1st year for tilt.
For the windshield contact a local Safelite Glass Dealer.

 

it has manual steering and i saw about 6 of them at pull and save. i just used the bolts that came with the puller i will try to get grade eight bolts. what size are the bolts?

 

I want to say 5/16" coarse. But it has been too long since I've pulled a Bump steering wheel. Best to take one of the bolts you have with you as a sample.

 

that's what i'm thinking i will take a bolt with me. i also need to get a nut for the end of the steering shaft. i really over tightened it i got the nut off but the threads are iffy,

 

Now might be a good time to switch to P/S. Bump or out of a Dentside. If there is one of those in that pick and save you can snag from. Steering wheel to tie rod ends. Get everything off the same donor. Pump, brackets, pulleys, nuts, bolts etc. off the engine.

 

On my '68 the bolt threads in the wheel are 5/16 NF, or national fine thread, do not try to use the wrong bolt thread or you could really screw things up.
Use grade 8 bolts, both the same length, have things straight and plumb, tighten the puller and then rap the end of the big center bolt with a large hammer, this should get your wheel off. If not, go get another but my advice is .... stick with the right one, trying to change things can end up a real nightmare, worse than we have now.
warren e

 

HERE'S THE OLD TRICK
spray some rust buster /wd40/KROIL in shaft splines
loosen big nut so there's a gap between wheel and nut
take a bigger socket and put over nut
hit socket with a 2.5lb mini sledge HIT not beat
this will push the wheel in a little then the spring will push it out to the nut .
loosen nut and it's off , no special tools needed .

 

X2 on this. Steering wheel pullers are about $20.00 at auto zone.

 

I'm a welder so making one is easy. Two pieces of steel with a 5/8 nut welded to them, those about 3/8 apart, to make a slot on each side of the nut. A bolt in that nut, the two 5/16 NF bolts with a flat washer under each, put it on your wheel, tighten, rap the head of the bolt, wheel is loose
AND ... never but NEVER use any impact on a steering wheel nut, I tighten mine just so they don't wiggle or are loose, let it go at that, it ain't goin' anywhere.
warren e

 

i bought the steering wheel puller at harbor freight and it worked the first time. if i have to change the colum again i would like to get power steering and tilt and hydroboost for the brakes as well as disc up front.

 

I want my '68 to be as simple and original as possible, reason is: The more you complicate things the more the troubles and expense fixing, I don't want power anything, no AC either, it had an aftermarket unit, I took it all out, sold the stuff along with other scrap metal. My dash is clean, looks great, gets great mileage with the 240, it does have a C-4 auto', that's the extent of any 'frills'.
warren e

 

X2. Spec is something like 35-55 ft/lb.

 

Half of that is plenty, once snugged up good where is your wheel going .... it ain't goin' anywhere. Then if you ever have to remove it for whatever reason it'll come off with a simple pulle, no having to fight anything.
55 lbs of touque is approaching wheel nuts, that is a little insane. I always put a drop or two of oil on wheel studs, no need to overtighten those either, I'm 84, been working on cars since I was 12 and never had one fall off yet. Leave the impact in the drawer.
warren e

 

If you read the manual (I know, crazy talk) the nut is staked to the shaft too.