To get back to this you will need a TV rod from a 351W from a Crown Vic or Grand Marquis. The 302 and 351W TV rods are different. Sometimes the 302 TV can be made to work with some tweaking (straightening out) provided you have clearance at the back of the intake. . But the easiest solution is to just source a TV rod from a 351W CV or GM. And yes the TV rod off a VV carb will work just fine on a 2150 or modded 4100.

 

Thank you Matt this should be made a sticky up top.
Dave - - - -

 

Thanks for all the good info. I will use the cv/ gm rod. My only question is from my research they have feedback carbs. Can I use a 302 aod carb from an f150?

 

On a 351W ? No you can not jetting and booster jetting will not be correct.
In Canada the 351W was used in the CV and GM with the 2150 till 84 If I remember correctly (might be 83). In the US it only used the VV I believe.

The best option is to source a 2150 off a 351W out of an F series then swap the throttle shaft for an AOD throttle shaft.

You can get a reman 351W carb for the F series from Rock Auto. If you do not have emissions to worry about get a Canadian Calibration carb from the early 80's for the 351W.

 

In addition to the stock throttle cable, I currently have an aftermarket Lokar transmission kickdown (AOD TV) cable attached to my throttle lever, in lieu of a kickdown (AOD TV) rod. Which means I have two return springs closing the throttle lever. The throttle return spring is part of the throttle cable, which pushes the throttle lever closed from the back. At the same time, the Lokar kickdown cable has a return spring that is part of the transmission cable, which pulls the the throttle lever closed from the back.

Is this bad for the throttle shaft bushings? It is currently set up like this, and 1:30 shows the motion:


Now that I have the correct Motorcraft 2150 AOD throttle lever that will accept the stock TV rod, I was thinking about swapping the linkage over to my Autolite 4100 like you describe here. But if the Lokar kickdown (TV) cable isn't any worse on the throttle shaft bushings, I might leave it.

 

Personally I'm not a fan of the Lokar set up as it does not maintain correct ratio in some applications. The EFI TV levers and carb TV levers have different lengths to the center line of the shaft for EFI and Carb both at the throttle and trans IIRC.

It would be nice if Lokar said what theirs is matched too. Or is it matched to their TV trans lever.
The ratio from the trans to the throttle is not 1:1 on the factory TV cable/rod.

I have never sat down and calculated the ratio I just always matched parts. Or just modified the trans kick down lever to mount the TV rod at the same distance to shaft center line on Holleys as the Autolite.

I have never used the cable on carbs as I find the rod set up more reliable. and easier to install.

 

I can appreciate you opinion on which method is better, but that doesn't really answer my question.

I used the Lokar TV cable because at the time, I didn't think about swapping the AOD-specific throttle shaft from the Motorcraft 2150 to the Autolite 4100. If I had thought about it, I would have done just that. I prefer using stock Ford parts whenever possible, but if the Lokar setup isn't causing unnecessary wear on the throttle shaft bushings, I may just leave it.

To answer your question, the Lokar TV cable is matched to their transmission lever that replaces the stock one. The Lokar transmission lever has two holes in which to insert the TV cable into: one for a Holley(and Autolite/Motorcraft) carburetor, and a different one for an Edelbrock carburetor. As long as you use the correct hole for the carburetor being used, the correct ratio will be maintained.

I am currently using the Lokar TV cable and it has been working great for years. There is at least one advantage to the Lokar setup; it doesn't use those plastic grommets that are known to get brittle and break with age, which causes the TV rod (or stock TV cable on later models) to fall off - which destroys the AOD very quickly. The stock TV rod system uses a plastic grommet on both ends of the TV rod.

The disadvantage is whenever the transmission is removed. The Lokar TV cable will have be removed and therefore re-adjusted. Whereas the stock TV rod can be removed and replaced without losing it's adjustment. (But really, how often should that happen?) However, adjusting the Lokar TV cable is pretty easy and straight-forward. But to be fair, I have never adjusted a TV rod.

 

If you lose the bushings on the rod you know right away as the shift go wonky. And you can get new replacement bushings if it is concern due to age. The rod has two adjustments course under the vehicle and fine on the carbs AOD lever. It is super easy to set up and nuts reliable more so than any cable set up including the factory one. You can fine tune the course adjustment but it is a PIA to do. But this is only an issue if you are using an add on lever on the carb.


The Lokar set up will increase the wear on the throttle bore wear over the factory TV rod set up. The factory set up uses a spring on the throttle shaft to return the TV lever . The Lokar uses an additional spring on the cable to return it to full extension this increases forces ont he throttle shaft. So yes it will increase the wear on the throttle bore. How much it does is open to debate. I would set it up so the Lokar return spring only has just enough force to fully extend/return the cable. That should minimize the issue.

Now some thing I have never done but have thought about it and would be idiot simple. And not sure why the aftermarket has never done it.
And that would be to use the trans kick down lever on auto carbs for the TV rod. It would just mean a new TV lever on the trans to correct the ratio. This could be done on Holley and 2100/2150 and 4100 carbs. Not sure about Edelbrocks..


It would not work on the 4300/4350 carbs as the kick down lever will not fully seat against the throttle stop at idle.
Doing this would allow the use of the factory 3 speed trans kick down rod or TV rod and if push comes to shove you could fab your own.
The kick down adjustment screw should have more than enough adjustment to set your TV pressures.

It would not be hard to fab your own trans TV lever to correct the ratio either. Just some quick maths to figure your arc to correct the ratio.

 

"Nuts reliable?"

I agree with you about the bushings. In fact, Ford later replaced those plastic bushings with brass ones and a clip that will last forever. But what makes the TV rod "more so reliable" than any cable setup? The Lokar TV cable also has two adjustments, course and fine. Except both adjustments are done right there at the carburetor.

When you say "add on lever on the carb," are you referring to a kickdown rod extension that is used to give extra needed length to the TV rod when going from a 2V to a 4V carburetor?



I see what you are saying. But if I swap out the AOD throttle shaft from the Motorcraft 2150 and use it in an Autolite 4100, I also need to use the accelerator pump assembly and entire choke assembly off of the Motorcraft carburetor as well, right?

If that is the case, then wouldn't I need to purchase two (2) different carburetor rebuild kits when it's time to rebuild this "hybrid" carburetor? One for the Autolite 4100, and another one for a Motorcraft 2150 in order to get a replacement accelerator pump diaphragm and related gaskets?

 

The TV rod rod never goes out of adjustment once it set it never needs touched again, ever, even with all attaching components R&R'd. Cables do need readjusted over time, Ford even had this issue with the factory cable set up they had to warranty more than a few AOD's cause of this. And the Ford cable is far more robust then the Lokar one and is sealed unlike the Lokar one.

The Lokar's are good for rods that never see off road or winter use. As it is rather exposed and not sealed and would be susceptible to dirt,oily grit, mud, snow/ice, water etc. And no worries about corrosion causing issues either. Especially in some of the mountings I have seen that are on the under side. (see below) Those would never survive winter or off pavement use. They would get soaked freeze then bend the crap out the mounting brackets or break the cable or get beat to death from gravel, jammed up with mud or just plain ripped off. (I've seen it happen)

Not exactly the set up for a truck that gets used like a truck and is not just a pavement queen. They are not a reliable durable set up for vehicles that see use besides pavement and summer temps.

There is or was a correction lever that would allow TV rod mounting to Holleys etc and put the mounting point the 1.43" from throttle bore center line same as the factory mounting point as on the carbs.
This meant all adjustment would be done on the course adjustment under the vehicle. A royal PIA ,but once done it would never needed to be touched again.

The best option is to retain the factory set up if possible it is proven, reliable and and has the lowest cost by far. And all the bits can be had from the wreckers for about $25.

Then there is the option of using the trans kick down lever and building a new TV lever on the trans to correct that ratio. I'm postive this could be done , but never bothered with it as the factory parts to convert, have always been readily available.


You don't need the choke assembly only the AOD accelerator pump housing, accelerator pump rod and diaphragm and the pump shot is adjustable in this set up, all of it would be scrounged from the same a wrecking yard car/truck you got the throttle shaft , TV rod and TV trans bracket from. Likly youd just take the whole carb. Remember when I was doing this those carbs/vehicles were all over the place think of all the vehicles that used the AOD with a carb they were easy to find and made up near half of the Ford stuff in the yard. Ford made millions of crown vics/grand marquis/town cars,F100/F150's all the V8/V6 the Fox bodies the list is huge where to scrounge the bits from.

And most are still relatively easy to find every where except the rust belt.

I always utilized the Choke assy with no pull off/down or manifold heat tubes as these units are one wire hook up and needed no choke heat tube's,heater hose bracket to put the hose to the cap like the early 2100/4100, the pull down was is all done with an internal piston utilizing manifold vac. The choke pull can be removed it was only there to speed up the choke coming off for emissions.

Regardless you could use what ever Ford factory choke assy you want from the 2100/2150. Or use whatever choke assembly was on your stock 2100/2150 as they all bolt to the 4100.

The only additional part you need above the standard 4100 Autolite reman kit to rebuild the carb is the unique AOD accelerator pump diaphragm.
And these rarely fail any way. And are available separately.



Motorcraft 2150 Carburetor Pump Diaphragm Assembly

The 4100 is dead reliable and can go further than most any other carb between rebuilds. The only one that really eclipses it is the 2100.

 

Yeah, that is pretty fragile looking. I mounted mine UP for better protection from the elements. But I was never really happy about the return spring being left out in the open like that:




So, I *can* use the existing choke assembly on my Autolite 4100 with the Motorcraft 2150 AOD throttle shaft? The 4100's thermostatic choke system with the tubes and electric assist choke cap (from a Motorcraft 2150) I have now works very well and I would like to keep it.

The adjustable pump shot: I have a 5.0/AOD carburetor from a Crown Vic. Which hole should I use for my F150?


Perfect! I can just pick up a couple of these for future rebuilds without purchasing entire rebuild kits for the Motorcraft 2150.


Agreed, and that is why I have one on my truck. And I think you have convinced me that the TV rod makes it even more "dead nuts" reliable.

 

Yup you can use your existing choke assembly that is the beauty of the 4100 swap you can keep your factory ancillaries . I always use the top hole for the maximum pump shot duration/volume (especially on 351's). If you have bogging or puffs of black smoke you can step it down, there are 3 holes to chose from. The bottom one gives the shortest pump shot duration and the top the longest. Just make sure to get the right over travel accel pump diaphram there were 3 different ones used on AOD 2150's
See below.

 

Double post

 

I just found out that an AOD-specific throttle shaft from a Motorcraft 7200/VV carburetor is not the same. The shaft diameter is *smaller* on the choke end compared to an Autolite 2100/4100 and Motorcraft 2150 throttle shaft.


Plan B: I can get my hands on a 1985 Motorcraft 2150 feedback carburetor to get the AOD TV rod linkage.

Is there any difference between a Motorcraft 2150 throttle shaft that has a throttle position sensor on it compared to one without? (i.e. how does the throttle position sensor mount to the throttle shaft? Does it just slip over it?)

Is there any difference between an accelerator pump from a feedback carburetor compared to one without?

 

Yes the 7200 VV is an entirely different animal and nothing will really swap over to the 2100/2150 expecting the choke cap. The TV rod assembly is the same as the 2150's though.

The 2150 feedback with the TPS should have the same throttle shaft as the non feed back carbs. IIRC correctly the accelerator pump will work but is a bit different design to clear for the compensator that is bolted to the front of the carb

I have only ever played with one feed back 2150, they were scarce as hens teeth here back int he day and now are non existent, The only one's I seen here here were fitted to 3.8L's. The 3.8 carbs are not really the best source of bits as they did some funky stuff with some of them.