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A/C cool, not cold?

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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 06:24 PM
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A/C cool, not cold?

Just replaced A/C clutch and pulley and left some freon out, as I had it overfilled.

Now back to the original problem before the A/C clutch/bearing died... Cool A/C but not cold.

The compressor seems to now be staying engaged as it should. It gets cool quickly, but only maybe 65F by guess?

I just bought new high pressure and low pressure sswitches to replace, just in case.

I also bought an orifice, but don't want to open the lines while on this very long trip.

Ideas?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 07:05 PM
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Outside temps? Is 65 after running for a while or in the beginning? Are you using max ac to recirculate inside air? Have you installed a shut off for the heater core?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 07:31 PM
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Re

Originally Posted by F350-6
Outside temps? Is 65 after running for a while or in the beginning? Are you using max ac to recirculate inside air? Have you installed a shut off for the heater core?
Outside 88F-98F

After running along time while moving, it is nice and cold. Turn off recirculate, it is so-so. Barely cool.

Excursion, so I think it has a built-in bypass, right?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 07:47 PM
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Need to vacuum the moister out of the system, if not your new compressor is going to die.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 07:55 PM
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Yes the Excursion should have the built in bypass. It's still vacuum controlled and just because it has one, doesn't mean it's working. I'd say a 40 - 45 degree difference is what you should be aiming for, so you're a tad out of range.

When you let the freon out, did you do it with a gauge to monitor pressure to make sure you're in spec?

There's also a chance you're coil is a bit plugged up and needs cleaning.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by z31freakify
Need to vacuum the moister out of the system, if not your new compressor is going to die.
What? He didn't vent the system.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ExPACamper
Just replaced A/C clutch and pulley and left some freon out, as I had it overfilled.

Now back to the original problem before the A/C clutch/bearing died... Cool A/C but not cold.

The compressor seems to now be staying engaged as it should. It gets cool quickly, but only maybe 65F by guess?

I just bought new high pressure and low pressure sswitches to replace, just in case.

I also bought an orifice, but don't want to open the lines while on this very long trip.

Ideas?
You need to get a proper set of manifold gauges hooked up and see what the system pressures are, both high and low sides. But honestly, if you aren't familiar with A/C systems, you should really just take it somewhere that is.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Pikachu
What? He didn't vent the system.
My bad read it wrong I thought he changed the AC compressor
 
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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by z31freakify
Need to vacuum the moister out of the system, if not your new compressor is going to die.
It's not a new compressor, just the clutch.

For me to open the lines or draw a vacuum will be about a week... When we get back.

I am planning to replace orifice and accumulator, evacuate the system and hold about 20mins or so to test for leaks.

Looking for things I can do to it here at campground...

Thanks
 
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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 08:32 PM
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I appreciate all the prompt replies. Let me try to get the answers, I was typing on my phone when some of them came in. My apologies for being "slow" on this, been burning the candle on both end AND in the middle, trying to get this fixed.

I've been driving a couple hours after getting everyone settled in for the night, making coffee and breakfast for everyone, then working on the truck while everyone else is getting ready. I'm worn a little thin and maybe not thinking very clearly.

So type S-L-O-W-L-Y for me, LOL

1. Gauge...I used the gauge on the freon hose that came with the can of freon. Let out freon until it was in the blue "charged section"

2.
Yes the Excursion should have the built in bypass. It's still vacuum controlled and just because it has one, doesn't mean it's working
This might be my problem! I have new vacuum lines that I haven't gotten around to changing yet, and with new wheels bearing assemblies and rebuilt hubs still leaks over to defrost about 1 out of 3 or so times.

I may have a vacuum issue....or other bypass issue that I can also work on when I get back.

3. Proper gauges...I have a set of manifold gauges (actually I just bought a second set because someone borrowed mine and I can't remember who). I used to recharge a number of A/C systems from my own (10lb?) tank, but I have some trouble retaining that info when I don't use it.

4. Plugged condenser. Yeah, I could kick myself for not checking and cleaning it while I had the radiator out to change...


How can I check the bypass without a mightyvac or something?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ExPACamper

Looking for things I can do to it here at campground...
There isn't much more you can do at the campground yourself without breaking the system. I am going through the same things right now. We head home on Thursday and I plan to clean the evaporator and if that does not get me into the 50's out of the center vent, I am taking it to a local shop that I trust. If they cannot fix it, I have been offered a helping hand by another FTE member about 2 hours from my home that will take care of the problem.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by ExPACamper
How can I check the bypass without a mightyvac or something?
Buy a couple of cheap hose barbs and bypass the heater core. Or buy a ball valve and replace the shut off with a manual version would be the cheap and easy test with minimal tools.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2017 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by F350-6
Buy a couple of cheap hose barbs and bypass the heater core. Or buy a ball valve and replace the shut off with a manual version would be the cheap and easy test with minimal tools.
Might be able to work that out...

We're in a quartz mine tomorrow and then Oklahoma and probably Texas, then back to Arkansas.

She is getting her money's worth out of that new oil we changed before we left, LOL.

Thanks for the tip!
 
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Old Jul 19, 2017 | 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by F350-6
Buy a couple of cheap hose barbs and bypass the heater core. Or buy a ball valve and replace the shut off with a manual version would be the cheap and easy test with minimal tools.
I confess to being a butcher...how 'bout a pair of needle nose vice grips on that hose for now?
 
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Old Jul 19, 2017 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter
I confess to being a butcher...how 'bout a pair of needle nose vice grips on that hose for now?
Brilliant!
 
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