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Hi, I have a 79 F150 4x4. I need to relocate the rear leaf spring mounts 2" forward. When I do this I would need to shorten the drive shaft.Do the shock mounts need to be moved forward also?
I also need a min 4" lift. If I flip the rear mount when I move it forward will that make the difference needed for the driveshaft and gain 4" of lift?
I have a "66" body mounted on the frame, it had the 2" or so gap between the bed and cab. I cut the bed loose and moved the bed forward and the center of the wheel well looks terrible. Thoughts?
I bought the Rough Country 4" lift with new rear leaf springs. I plan on moving the hangers and shock mounts forward about 2". I hope all this works out.
What's the purpose of moving the axle forward? Not familiar with it on the full-size trucks. Probably plenty of discussions around herabouts, but I haven't run across one yet.
Hey Paul, I have a 1966 Ford F100 (115wb). The cab and bed are mounted on a 1979 Ford F150 4x4 chassis (117 wb) This causes a gap between the bed and the cab when you have the rear axle centered on the wheel opening.My 66 does not have the wrong bed style on it and there is inappropriate clearance between the 31" tires and the rear fender. You could do a 3" body lift on it to get good clearance but this would not solve the problem of the axle being centered when the bed is pushed forward for the 1/2 clearance between cab and bed. So I figured I could do a 4" suspension lift and move the rear spring perches forward 2". This should solve both problems.
Note the gap between cab and bed. I would like that closed up more.
Ok gotcha. Great project! Love new trucks, but love old ones more!
And with those old sculpted openings, you definitely want the tire just right for the whole visual aspect.
One thing is to not get it too close to the front of the wheel well opening because of the tighter clearance. But you can get the look and with proper wheel offset get it to clear.
Likely there is a compromise/sweet spot. Probably right in that 2" range you're planning.
I have a couple of ideas for ya. Get new spring pack made with the center spring bolt 2inch forward. Or make a 1' block with a hole for the spring 2" forward.
Sounds like you have have your mind made up on closing the gap. But, you might consider leaving a little extra space for a very good and easily explainable reason. With the extra space, if or when you ever get her twisted up, the bed will never contact the cab and leave you with a dent and messed up paint on both cab and bed.
When I first received the truck I asked people on here what their bed gap was. They said anywhere between 3/8" - 1/2". I understand the twisting of the bed. I wonder how much gap you would need to avoid damage.The 2" gap just looks out of place to me.
This is a stock wheel opening. See how the tire sits closer to the front than the rear.
So my plan is to move the axle the full 2" forward and move the bed forward only 1 1/2" forward.
Mine looks like it sits back a little from the stock location.
Last edited by swoosh1958; Jul 26, 2017 at 07:30 PM.
Reason: added pic and comment
Hangers are all cut off. Rear end and springs removed. I will drill the new holes soon. And install the new 4" lift. I need to replace a pinion O ring gasket and prep the rear axle and paint. All new brake components and SS lines too!
We are planning to do this tomorrow to my brothers '66 F100 on a 1978 frame. If you are lifting it and moving the axle forward you may not have to do anything to the driveshaft. 4" is usually about the max you should lift these trucks without addressing the driveshaft length. Even then sometimes it is required. Moving the axle two inches forward should alleviate driveshaft length issues associated with lifting it. Good luck, keep posting progress pics, I hope to take some as we tackle this in the morning. Also you may not have to do anything with the shock mounts, just make sure you get the proper length shocks with your added height and shock locations.
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