When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I just ordered a new (hated to pay full price, but better to know it works then have to keep trying) turn signal switch. I hope it gets here by the 5th so I can hope it works. Thanks for all the help.
ok, i went through the same thing last week with mine! what a pain in the ---, heres a link to the thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...readid=145967, i finally got mine all fixed up by bending the wires around under the turn signal cam
ok, this is getting rediculous!!...
Anyone want to figure with my why NOW my turn signals dont work AFTER I have replaced the WHOLE turn signal switch AND the relay????
I have traced the wires as far as I can to the battery, but I have not found a broken connection. I apreciate the help and
"am driving the wife's Volvo til I fix this"...
"Here is where I am confused (again)...When I have my parking lights/ headlights on, my right side parking light does not light up, but when I turn the hazards on, it does come on AND blink....I thought the ONE bulb did ALL the function (i.e.: turn signal, hazard and parking light) "
This is very common, and my 1980 just did it again the other day. It has done it about three times in the 10 years I have had the truck. This is all I ever do to fix it.
I pulled the parking lights on, and the drivers side was not lit. But the turnsignal indicator in the dash was lit, without the turn signal being on. While leaving the park lights on, I reached down behind the front marker lense and unplugged the socket(my year truck has the plastic sockets). I then pushed on the bulb an twisted it like I was going to take it out, and the bulb lit. I did this one more time, put it back in the lense and it works fine. All that's wrong is the brass part of the bulb is not making good contact with the metal tang on the socket(this is ground for the bulb by the way).
super, you say you're tracing the wires back toward the battery? I take it that you don't have power at the turn signal switch (for the turn signal circuit) or the turn signal flasher (either side) or the fuse box. What wires do you have power on?
mac, I do have power (with a test light) at the turn signal switch, UNTIL I turn on the switch (by moving it up or down). I will check the grounds on ALL the bulbs in the moning (I just got off work and the kids are calling)
Thanks for help!....
super, if the power drops out when you apply the signals, check at the flasher. The flasher is supposed to cut out the voltage but should come back on (flash). There should be steady voltage on the hot (fused) side of the flasher and the voltage should switch on and off on the switch side. If it isn't coming back on but holds steady on the hot side, replace the flasher. If there's no voltage at the turn signal switch, it won't matter if the grounds are good or not. You also won't be able to check the grounds without a load.
I'd almost bet its those little wires in the switch itself losing contact when the switch lever is moved. He can check that with the sharp probe test light .
Watch the bulbes in the dash. If you pull left and the bulb lights up, but doesn't flash, the switch works, but a ground is bad, and most likely in the rear lights.
If the bulb doesn't light, it's the switch that's not making or the circuit to the front parking light is open. And the same for the other direction.