Nice; thank you sir. Very helpful

 

That's correct. The dump valve leaks pressure to the accumulator and gives you that spongy feeling.

Kelsey-Hayes RWAL Antilock Brakes

Happens a lot - sometimes bleeding everything helps, but it means using some sort of diagnostic tool to exercise the dump and bypass valves while running the ABS pump. This also happens on the 3-channel ABS from Kelsey-Hayes used in later trucks like my 2001 Superduty, or my brother-in-law's 1997 Suburban (that I had a lot of experience trying to get it right - and a dealer tech we knew finally got it bled correctly with his shop equipment).

Sometimes, just taking it out on a dirt road or somewhere you can lock up the wheels can get the ABS working right again.

 

First Part Numbers-

2B373 is the Basic Service PN of the part in question, in this example a RABS Valve. There is a Prefix And a Suffix attached to the Basic PN to positively ID it's application. The Prefix will give pertinent info on vehicle year/model application, while the Suffix parts super-cession and/or R or L and/or color depending on Basic PN.

RM on a FORD PN Suffix identifies the part as being re-manufactured from FORD. FORD also carries reman parts from FORD Authorized Reman Vendors and those part numbers will appear the same as FORD PN's but may vary, usually having an X in the suffix.

Now, you need that RABS/RWAL Valve as it is the only way to prevent rear wheel lock-up and it's unpleasant consequences on either panic stopping and/or wet road service. It was put there for a reason.

ALSO-

The hydraulic braking system (RABS/RABS II/ABS) is not all that difficult to diagnose. It simply requires the proper diagnostic sequence.

The MC shortcomings is described fully in a TSB released by FORD and gives the correct replacement PN's for all applications.

 

I agree with couple earlier posts about M/C bore being too small for solid pedal. I replaced my 92 F250 M/C with one for a 96 (1/8" bigger bore I think), made a BIG difference in pedal firmness and travel. Ignore the plug on the newer one, it is for cruise control brake switch, earlier ones are at the pedal. I unplugged my RABS module behind glovebox, no issues with it, I just don't care for anti-lock brakes for what I use this truck for.

 

Concerning MC Upgrades-

This is after confirming all other components are within spec.

I will post the entire TSB when I come across it.

 

Hey everyone following up on this thread. RABS success!

Did some more research on the RABS valve and it turns out the E-250/350 Vans used basically the same valve. Found a OEM part # F4UZ-2B373-A valve MFG date "07/25/96" for around $180.00 that worked out great. I had to bite the bullet and purchase it because it was getting dangerous to drive as I was getting a lot of right front bias. Sorry wasn't very interested in doing a RABS by-pass.

Lingering question
Ended up removing all the bleeders (to clean them) and notice that
left front and right front are different thread sizes. Is this normal?

Thanks for all the help
Scott

 

This makes absolutely zero sense to me. It was a brand new vehicle under warranty. Make them fix it! It sounds like you didn’t want/ was scared of that “newfangled” anti-lock brake system.

My 150 had a soft/ spongy pedal (felt like a Chevy) that I couldn’t get rid of after I rebuilt the rest of the brake system from sitting for almost a decade. Replaced it (RABS module) with one out of the junkyard and it has been nice and firm ever since. Has been that way for years now.

The bleeder screws might be different because of different manufacturers and rebuilds over the years. They would have been the same from Ford.