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That is a little out of my price range. I suppose I could sell it later.
If I knew the pinout for the O2 sensor and MAP I could back probe the connectors. I have insulation piercing probes too.
Second drive and no bad idle.
Something went right on this project. The ABS was not working. I read up on diagnosing the system. I removed the glove box to access the control unit. Found that the connector was not plugged in. Plugged it in. It passed the bulb test at start up and the slam-on-the-brakes test on the road. Pretty cool huh?
That is a little out of my price range. I suppose I could sell it later.
If I knew the pinout for the O2 sensor and MAP I could back probe the connectors. I have insulation piercing probes too.
You can work out the pinouts pretty fast with a multimeter. The O2 sensor will have 1 power wire, a ground wire and a signal wire. The MAP sensor will have the same.
Sprayed with silicone spray and tried to remove the rubber seal but it did not move easily and I thought it might get damaged. I cut a 1.5 mm dia brass rod 2" long and rounded both ends by spinning it in a drill motor. These slid in easily parallel to the wire. The MAP sensor read a little high compared to a chart found on line.
I hope it is correct for my truck.
The O2 sensor is too inaccessible to do this. I will get connectors from the wrecking yard to make a break out box of sorts.
The check engine light came on briefly twice but I have not checked for codes.
Opened, inspected most of the connectors and reseated. All looked good. Worked for fine for about six drives then it came back temporally. Both times the ambient was above 80 and when restarted after cooling a bit, it worked fine.
I did find that the spark plug wires 7&8 were switched at the distributor.
Since both scan tool cartridges were DOA it is hard to trouble shoot without it. I am planning on reworking the grounds. Any suggestions on how to do this will be appreciated.
The ABS light came on briefly while driving as did the check engine light.
Opened, inspected most of the connectors and reseated. All looked good. Worked for fine for about six drives then it came back temporally. Both times the ambient was above 80 and when restarted after cooling a bit, it worked fine.
I did find that the spark plug wires 7&8 were switched at the distributor.
Since both scan tool cartridges were DOA it is hard to trouble shoot without it. I am planning on reworking the grounds. Any suggestions on how to do this will be appreciated.
The ABS light came on briefly while driving as did the check engine light.
If the check engine light came on, you should have a stored code
I have been driving with no issues. The temperature reached 85 yesterday and the rough idle is back. Drove it later in the evening when it dropped off to 80 and no rough idle, but that trip was shorter.
I was talking to a guy in the parts store who has been chasing intermittent faults. He said that problems occur on his truck when the air gets hot.
I can do the cleaning easily enough but I don't understand what is going on with the battery. Is there any text to explain that or do I need not be concerned with that?