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One benefit to the Fusible link is that will take a large "in rush" of current (over its rating) without damage, if it is just for a short time, where a CB or fuse would trip/blow.
Thanks for the links I will start looking around for the connectors, the connector issue is with the tail light circuit the PO had installed the trailer light pigtail so close to the connector its now impossible to repair the wiring properly. So I was looking for a new conductor.
Franklin2
You are correct its a voltage regulator not a resistor as I stated earlier.
Thanks for the links I will start looking around for the connectors, the connector issue is with the tail light circuit the PO had installed the trailer light pigtail so close to the connector its now impossible to repair the wiring properly. So I was looking for a new conductor.
Franklin2
You are correct its a voltage regulator not a resistor as I stated earlier.
how do you know if its working properly?
David
When it fails, all 3 gauges will not work or they all read low or high or bounce up and down together. It works much like a turnsignal flasher, so you should be able to read a flashing on and off voltage from it.
I'm a newbie here, so hope it's OK to post to this thread, as I have a similar problem on a '99 F550 7.3L. I'm drawing about 400 mA with key off and doors closed. Pulled fuses until problem disappeared. The faulty circuit was fuse #15, a 5A fuse that protects the GEM and PCM. Any ideas where I go from here?
I'm a newbie here, so hope it's OK to post to this thread, as I have a similar problem on a '99 F550 7.3L. I'm drawing about 400 mA with key off and doors closed. Pulled fuses until problem disappeared. The faulty circuit was fuse #15, a 5A fuse that protects the GEM and PCM. Any ideas where I go from here?
This forum is for trucks from 1980 - 1986. You should post the forum for your model year.
However, since you already posted here, I will say that 400mA does not seem excessive for the PCM. But IDK the max allowable amount.
The PCM will always draw some power (for its "Keep Alive Memory"). If that is the only draw, you should not notice it if your battery (batteries) are in good condition.
If you have an RV or truck that doesn't get used for months at a time, then you probably need a battery disconnect or isolator to protect from extended battery drain.
I use 70ma as a max, some people use 50ma. You will have to shut the doors and wait 40 minutes before checking for drains on the newer trucks. Not kidding, it's in the factory manual.
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