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Old Jul 6, 2017 | 04:53 PM
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Air Conditioning Install

I am in the process of piecing together an AC system. I purchased a Sanden 508 type compressor that appears to have maintenance ports in it. My question is this: can I charge and maintain the system using these ports or should I include fittings with maintenance ports in the hoses?
 
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Old Jul 6, 2017 | 07:37 PM
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The ports will work fine.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 09:23 AM
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Does anyone have any suggestions about where to connect the power for the evaporator unit? Should I install an inline fuse, and if so, how can I determine the amps?
 
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Old Aug 3, 2017 | 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by gray035
Does anyone have any suggestions about where to connect the power for the evaporator unit? Should I install an inline fuse, and if so, how can I determine the amps?
I am assuming you actually mean the blower motor. Yes, definitely do a quality in line fuse holder to the switch. In the past Ford has used 30 and 35 amp fuses for factory A/C. So I would use a 35. It is a pretty good draw on the system if one turns the blower motor straight to "Hi" from "off". So don't skimp on the size of wire and cheesy fuse holder.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2017 | 09:36 AM
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Your going to be using r134a Freon assume and our you using new parts or used?

With the r134a you need to replace any black o-rings with the green o-rings.

Do not use a old used dyer, but only a new one that has been seal off from air getting into it.

Only remove the plugs when your installing it or adding a small amount of oil to it.

Or when closing off your system. If dryer plugs have been left unplugged for a day or so it may be destroyed depending on the moisture is in the air.

Also if your going to set up your system like what was used in the days of r-12 then your be disappointed in city stop & go driver.

The r134a systems setups use 12v electric fans just for the purpose:

If your not wanting to use electric fans then you'll need to move the evaporator to with 1/4 to 3/8" close to the front of your radiator an use a fan shroud and a fan & smaller water pump pulley 6."to 6.5/8" an a 19" fan.~~~~~ just for starter
Orich
Manual fan should only be half way in the shroud for best air pull.

Block off all side opening of the Evaporator with foam rubber.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 06:41 PM
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Hey Orich where did you get that fan shroud? I've been trying to find one for my truck. Ordered one from DC but the opening for the fan was off centered. I wondering if they sent the wrong one.
Thanks!
 
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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 08:22 PM
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Orich meant to say condenser, not evaporator.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by mrpotatohead
Orich meant to say condenser, not evaporator.
Oh, I did say that Thanks for the correction Mr. P.

I do get a brain fart now & then.

As for the radiator shroud it's a oem one that, I bagged at PnP JY came off a 75 cs. with the big tank 4 core radiator.

Most our broken or cracked as you may have found out.

Orich
 
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Old Aug 6, 2017 | 09:02 AM
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Thanks Orich. I'll just have to keep checking the pnp.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2017 | 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by fswells
Hey Orich where did you get that fan shroud? I've been trying to find one for my truck.

Ordered one from DC but the opening for the fan was off centered. I wondering if they sent the wrong one.
1967/72 F100/350 V8's: TWO different radiator supports, TWO different fan shrouds.

Your truck has the Super Cooling (S/C) radiator. The S/C radiator support has a larger opening radius than with standard/xtra cooling and A/C radiators.

C7TZ-8146-B .. S/C Radiator Fan Shroud / Marked on upper left corner: C7TA-8146-H or D2TA-8146-HA or D3TA-8146-JA / Reproduced by Carpenter

1967 F100/350 352; 1968/76 F100/350 360/390.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2017 | 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy
1967/72 F100/350 V8's: TWO different radiator supports, TWO different fan shrouds.

Your truck has the Super Cooling (S/C) radiator. The S/C radiator support has a larger opening radius than with standard/xtra cooling and A/C radiators.

C7TZ-8146-B .. S/C Radiator Fan Shroud / Marked on upper left corner: C7TA-8146-H or D2TA-8146-HA or D3TA-8146-JA / Reproduced by Carpenter

1967 F100/350 352; 1968/76 F100/350 360/390.
Thanks for the info. I had no idea there were such a thing at the super cooling radiator. The rad in my truck looked big and i knew it was a four core but didn't know much else. I found the shroud on the dc website and plan to order one up in the next couple days.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2017 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by orich
Your going to be using r134a Freon assume and our you using new parts or used?
All the parts are new except I am using an older dealer option evaporator unit.

Originally Posted by orich
With the r134a you need to replace any black o-rings with the green o-rings.
They are all green.

Originally Posted by orich
Do not use a old used dyer, but only a new one that has been seal off from air getting into it.
Yep. It's new.

Originally Posted by orich
Only remove the plugs when your installing it or adding a small amount of oil to it. Or when closing off your system. If dryer plugs have been left unplugged for a day or so it may be destroyed depending on the moisture is in the air.
Well I had to do some fabricating so some of the ports stayed open while I was doing that. Hopefully not too much moisture is in there.

Originally Posted by orich
Also if your going to set up your system like what was used in the days of r-12 then your be disappointed in city stop & go driver.

The r134a systems setups use 12v electric fans just for the purpose:

If your not wanting to use electric fans then you'll need to move the evaporator to with 1/4 to 3/8" close to the front of your radiator an use a fan shroud and a fan & smaller water pump pulley 6."to 6.5/8" an a 19" fan.~~~~~ just for starter
My evaporator is very close to the radiator. I made a bracket for it. Right now I have a mechanical fan and an electric one (puller), but no shroud. I've been looking at the taurus 12v fan conversion, but I understand that also requires an upgrade to the alternator.
 
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